Wenlock's Blog

Just like the real thing with the plain bearings suspended inside the frame. This is precise engineering, Dave. Using plungers obviously stops the wheels from running out of true with each other and stops any unnecessary wear on the connecting rods - great idea. Always seems a pity that exacting work like this will never seen once the loco is complete. If you carry on applying the same amount of precision to the rest of the build then this'll be a smashing engine. My hats off to anyone that can confidently build kits to this level - it must be immensely satisfying? Very much looking forward to seeing this develop.

 

Mike

Always seems a pity that exacting work like this will never seen once the loco is complete. 

I disagree with that sentence (but agree with all the others) for the results of the exacting work will be seen when the loco is complete, as it will move well and indeed more like the real thing than a model quickly thrown together.

I say this to encourage more people to have a go at lifting their engineering standards, despite the fact that the work will not be obvious - but it would be obvious if the work put in was not exacting.

Hi Dave great work so far. I really like your idea on the brake shoes and hangers. What resin is it that you use? I used to make silicon molds for casting whitemetal when I built in 4mm. So that side would not be a problem. Have you thought about just casting the shoes?

Hi Mike, thanks for the positive comments, I'm glad you're enjoying the build. You're quite right about the satisfaction gained from getting things right, I can't however take much off the credit. The Finney kit is very well thought out and I've really just followed the instructions. Iain Rice's book on chassis construction taught me all I know about the subject, I really like his pragmatic approach. Anyone contemplating building a chassis with or without hornblocks, would be well advised to get hold of a copy in my opinion. Although you are quite right that most of the work won't be seen when the loco is finished, I think getting the foundations right adds to the satisfaction when the loco is finally finished.

 

Hi Simon, I think we're singing from the same hymn sheet! Getting a model to move smoothly and look as if it has the mass and weight of the prototype is exactly what I'm trying to achieve.

 

Hi N15, the acrylic resin that I use is called Palavit G, it's used in the Dental Industry. As an alternative I've also had success using resins designed for making paper weights. As far as I can remember I got mine from the local Hobbycraft.

I usually do just cast the shoes, particularly if the kit has etched brass hangers, but on this occasion the kit had one piece white metal castings, so I just duplicated those!

 

Best wishes to all of you

 

Dave

I remember the paperwieght resin, I used it as a kid many years ago. I also had some silicon for molds that could be heated and reused.

Fantastic Dave, not just from a technical POW but also aesthetically!

Really lovely work Dave. 

 

Look forwards to the next post.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Superb bit of engineering there Dave - very impressed

 

Looking forward to seeing it running.

 

Cheers pal

Roger

 

Looking forward to seeing it running.

 

Thanks Rog , you and me both!  Looking forward to the 28th as well matey!

 

Dave

Yep! Shall we go in boiler suits & flat cap? "by 'eck lad"   -  like a bad Mony Python sketch!

 

I'm still dithering on the hows and maybes on circling the railway room with a "test track" - would be great for watching trains and running in a Dean Goods...

with a pint or 2 of course.  (BTW - Lidel are doing Jennings "Cock a Hoop" for 99p a bottle!)

 

mmmm Dads Delight!

Roger

Looking superb Dave; the Dean goods were lovely machines.

 

I'm intrigued that you've gone 3/4 of the way towards split axle pickup by using the excellent Slater's insulated hornguides, but then finished off with plungers. I've been using the same lathe-free method Steph Dale describes here for years with much success. In fact on tender locos with inside frames (or an inside sub-frame) I now keep the engine itself electrically dead and split axle pickup from the tender only. Another slight difference is that although I've never had the Araldite on the hornguides fail, I still  take the belt and braces approach by putting through a 14BA CSH bolt through on the centre line of the ride height.

Hi Adrian, now that's a really clever idea!  I'm not sure why it hasn't occoured to me, now you've pointed it out it does seems an obvious solution!  It's certainly food for thought on the next project, the method of making split axles is ingenious as well.  Is there a clever method for making an insulated driven axle, so that the motor doesn't bridge the insulation gap?  I'm glad to hear you've never had an Araldite/hornblock joint fail, sounds like so far both of us have been lucky!

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

The great thing about split axles is once they're done there's never any need to tweak or fiddle with them - if electrical pickup becomes erratic you know it can only be down to dirty wheels.

 

The easiest thing is to ask Brian at ABC to build the gearboxes with insulated bearings which he does for no extra charge

Thanks Adrian, I wish i'd known all that before I built the chassis!  Still there's always the next loco to try it out on, always good to have something new to have a go at.

 

Dave

The acrylic resin home-moulding idea is a good one. I can see loads of people trying it out for themselves now.

The acrylic resin home-moulding idea is a good one. I can see loads of people trying it out for themselves now.

Hi Horsetan, I hope people do have a go at home moulding, it's really easy to master and can be a useful and versatile technique.