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Tackling the Peppercorn A2


Matthew Cousins

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Having decided that all the locos on the layout have got to have some form of springing or compensation (or even just movable horn blocks) I started to look at my A2.

This was probably built from a DJH or similar kit, and whilst some bits aren't too bad the pick-ups and flangeless drivers and rigid chassis make this a woeful performer on my admittedly slightly uneven outdoor track.

blogentry-8020-0-42544800-1376483318_thumb.jpg

 

It has an ABC gearbox and so was made at some expense, but apart from looking good at a safe distance it just has to come apart!

The main consideration is how to compensate or spring the chassis, which has centre axle drive and doesn't seem to be conducive to altering the driven axle, so I'm pondering that one.

I've had help from Dusty the cat - seen here supervising the work!

blogentry-8020-0-78465900-1376483434_thumb.jpg

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This large scale modelling is like rocket science to a simple N gauge modeller like me, I look on it though with envious eyes :)

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This large scale modelling is like rocket science to a simple N gauge modeller like me, I look on it though with envious eyes :)

And for me I admire the ability of N gauge modellers - as my eyesight and thick fingers deter me from the smaller gauges!

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... just think of the layout you could have in N gauge; it'd cost though - laser eye surgery for a start ;-) Good luck with the A2...I've yet to get into the springing game, but it's only a matter of time before I have to... Keep up the entries Matthew; this should be interesting to see how you get it done.

Jonathan

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You can still compensate the front and middle axles. use side beams as long as there is room to get them in beside the motor. I have done this with my 3130, works well. You just need to support the motor so it is able to move with the axle but rotate.

 

I would if you can drive off the rear, compensate the middle and front. No side play on the front and rear, and have the middle with side play, and if you can replace the flangeless wheel. Quite whay it was built with one I do not know.  This set up should still go through peco points.

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You can still compensate the front and middle axles. use side beams as long as there is room to get them in beside the motor. I have done this with my 3130, works well. You just need to support the motor so it is able to move with the axle but rotate.

 

I would if you can drive off the rear, compensate the middle and front. No side play on the front and rear, and have the middle with side play, and if you can replace the flangeless wheel. Quite whay it was built with one I do not know.  This set up should still go through peco points.

Thanks for the advice, I had thought of replacing the whole chassis, but will show what I do when I get some bits. I wasn't sure why the builder had used flangeless centre drivers either??

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... I wasn't sure why the builder had used flangeless centre drivers either??

 

Probably intended to get it round very sharp curves.

 

You might be able to use some of Tony Reynalds' castings to jazz things up a bit.

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