Jump to content
 
  • entries
    18
  • comments
    24
  • views
    4,378

Coming Together


Erudhalion

437 views

Progress has been slower than I thought, but a start has been made.

 

I've decided to solder the main components (body sides, front and back, boiler and tank top, tank front and front footplate/boiler barrel) together, and superglue the smaller details to the assembly. I have also decided not to use the spectacle plate part supplied and make a new one out of plasticard. The one supplied in the older style seen on the GVT engines Dennis and Sir Theodore, I'll go for a more enclosed type similar to the one on Glyn.

 

Anyway, The pictures show the progress so far. As you can see, my soldering technique is somewhat lacking (to say the least :jester: ), but the joints seem solid enough, and I've done minimal amounts of damage (slightly melted the left hand side of the front footplate casting, luckily the tank front covers it).

 

blogentry-8969-0-90090300-1390915269_thumb.jpg

blogentry-8969-0-58788100-1390915301_thumb.jpg

 

A test fit of the other part show that there are some gaps to fill, I should have some epoxy putty somewhere, or maybe I can make some plasticard fillets.

 

blogentry-8969-0-38062100-1390914715_thumb.jpg

blogentry-8969-0-21111500-1390914742_thumb.jpg

 

I have also completely disassembled the chassis. The top of the two large blocks will have to be filed down by about 1mm, while the front of the blocks will have to be narrowed to fit inside the front boiler barrel . I'm not entirely sure how to do this, but I'll find a way, I hope :jester: . I'll also have to find a way to secure the chassis to the body.

 

blogentry-8969-0-98673400-1390915394_thumb.jpg

blogentry-8969-0-46848600-1390915430_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

3 Comments


Recommended Comments

  • RMweb Premium

Is that a roll of electrical 5 core solder I see there? Might account for the untidiness and melting! Low melting point solder (melts before the white metal), and a suitable flux really are a must and a temperature controlled iron is very handy - Maplin have one very cheap at the moment (see my blog of last week). Getting the joint area back to bright metal is also essential. If you get the iron temperature correct you can also use the solder as filler so you won't have to search for the putty!

Link to comment

100degree white metal solder and flux - this one will flow, unlike the 70 degree version. Makes WM soldering fun! Plus a temp. controlled iron, of course....

Link to comment

I'm afraid it is electrical solder. Is there any particular solder you recommend? I'm a complete novice when it comes to this stuff.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...