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Servo controlled level crossing gates


Barry Ten

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Ideally you'd design and install an operating level crossing at the early stages of layout construction, but things don't always work that way. When I built the boards and put in the track for the layout, I hadn't really been thinking about servo motors and so on, regarding such things as far beyond my ability to work with. Once I got further along with the model, and started gaining more experience, I began to think it would be nice to have operating gates, so while there wasn't yet a plan in mind, I was careful to keep the area under the crossing free of additional clutter.

 

About a year ago, a model aircraft enthusiast gave me a demo of the servo system on one his planes, and it looked intuitive enough that I started looking around to see what was available. The push I needed, though, was Peco releasing their new SmartSwitch product, which includes four servos and associated electronics all in one package. I bought the kit and started playing around with simple ideas to mount the servos under the boards. Due to access issues, it would have to be done simply, and also without creating too much dust and debris, to shower down on the N scale layout underneath. In the end the only modification to the existing boards/scenery was the drilling down of a vertical hole beneath each gate post, which was accomplished without too much bother.

 

After opening the box of parts, I cobbled together a prototype mounting bracket which could be screwed under the boards, with an operating rod pushing up through the board and through another two inches of loft insulation. Peco recommend wiring up the servos on a test bench to gain some familiarity with the control logic, and I thoroughly endorse this. Though, I have to say, the programming and operation is very straightforward, and for once the manual is actually informative. With no prior hands-on experience of servos, I found it dead easy to set start/end points and operation speed - basically, it does what it says on the tin and you don't have to be an electronics bod to get it working.

 

The servos come with a set of different nylon cranks for various actions, but all I wanted was a direct drive like a slow-moving axle. However, I had my doubts about whether it was wise to simply fix a long rod directly into the centerline of the servo. In the end, I used one of the cranks, then fashioned a kind of "reverse crank" from piano wire to return the motion to the centerline - all a bit cumbersome, perhaps, and maybe not necessary, but it works. The crank passed up through a brass and plastic tube to the top of the layout, and the post of the crossing gate is then drilled to accept the last 20mm or so of the piano wire. I knocked up the mounting brackets from thick plastikard, and the tubes and wire were from my usual stocks of modelling supplies. Everything else was already in the Peco package, which comes with plenty of screws and bits of wire.

 

My plan had been to make the gates an interference fit on the piano wire, so that they could be easily removed, and would "give" under the impact of a train, should I fail to open the gates. However, that proved unworkable - two were stiff enough that it was practical, but one ended up with too sloppy a fit, and I reluctantly decided to retain the gates with a small drop of superglue. I'll just have to take care with the gates, like on the real railway...

 

Here's a shot of the servos in place on their brackets:

 

blogentry-6720-0-06760700-1401727128.jpg

 

There was a lot of adjustment needed to get the four gates opening and closing neatly, and to compensate for small errors in drilling the posts and the holes through the boards, but after some trial and error I was happy with the consistency of movement of the gates.

 

The servos have nine speed steps, of which the default is step 5. I tried step 1, the lowest, but found it both too slow and too jerky, so in the end I settled for a compromise of 4, which seems about right for layout use. The gates are controlled by individual switches, which can be thrown as one, to open/close them in one go, or they can be worked separately.

 

 

All in all, I am very impressed with the Peco product. Doubtless you could source the individual components more economically if you knew what you were looking for, but to have it all in one box, with good, clear instructions, makes a lot of difference. If you're like me, you'll soon start thinking of other applications for servos, such as signals, animation etc.

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  • RMweb Premium

I like that. How much would you say all the bits have cost?

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Looks like you can pick up the SmartSwitch kit for around 60 if you shop around, although I paid more for mine. I guess even if you had to buy the plastic card, piano wire, screws and crossing gates, it wouldn't add more than 20, so around 80 in total. You'll also need a 12V DC power supply, but chances are you'll already have one for something else.

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That is toptastic, very clever, and love the video. Ten out of ten.

Rolley (minor).

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  • RMweb Premium

Looks like you can pick up the SmartSwitch kit for around 60 if you shop around, although I paid more for mine. I guess even if you had to buy the plastic card, piano wire, screws and crossing gates, it wouldn't add more than 20, so around 80 in total. You'll also need a 12V DC power supply, but chances are you'll already have one for something else.

Thanks!

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Bonus points for spotting that I hadn't quite locked my tripod, which is why the picture gradually sinks as the video progresses... doh.

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Brilliant Al, it looks so simple, and the speed of the gates looks about right to me. My significant Achilles heel has always been in the electrickery department (to quote my old Physics Master after having lobbed a stick of chalk at my head with uncanny accuracy; "You're a cabbage, boy!"). This sort of thing usually goes in one ear and out the other without encountering resistance (sorry!), but it does seem fairly easy to apply. You might have actually done the impossible and motivated me to explore the application of servos.

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  • RMweb Premium

Excellant bit of work.  Really works well - very smooth action with no jittery movements.  Love the weathered gates too.  Very informative about what's available out there.

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  • RMweb Gold

Very nice, Al, and I actually understand it which is rare for me when it comes to electrics (another cabbage here). As you say, thoughts immediately turn to other possible applications. What other uses are you considering? 

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Like I said, you don't have to know a thing about electronics - if a committed bodger like me can get something like this to work, anyone can.

 

The only "tricky" bit - the screw terminals on the circuit board are a bit smaller than I'm used to, and I found it hard to get multicore wire in there without little strands crossing over to the adjacent terminal, so it might be an idea to use single strand wire.

 

In terms of other applications, I'm fed up waiting for Dapol to do their promised lattice post signals, so thoughts might turn back to using kit-built signals with easily demountable servo mechanisms. I've also thought about fun stuff like horses poking their noses out of barns, signalmen leaning out of windows and so on.

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I do like that! It really looks the part. I have a thing about level crossings and can certainly remember when lifting barriers were a disappointing novelty. My recollection of double gated crossings is that they were geared in such a way that the signalman just turned his wheel and they would move one at a time in a sort of diagonal pattern - e.g. front right, back left, front left, back right and they closed in reverse order. The gates each started slowly but accelerated through their movement crashing into and bouncing against stop blocks, with a terrific clatter. It was an evocative sound, all part of the excitement of knowing a train was on its way. There were also pedestrian "kissing" gates at the side which were left open a little longer. And always a signal box right by the gates..... I would love to be able to find room for one on my layout but it will take some adjustment of reality to fit one in.

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Thanks, Chris. I'm wondering whether I should add the kissing gates? I couldn't find all the bits in my scrap box so I left them out when I added the fencing on either side of the gates, but perhaps they ought to be there.

 

My platform-mounted signal box is a short distance from the crossing - whether that would preclude them being wheel-operated, I don't know.

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Original comment edited - note the following. Perseverance has paid off; it's not wholly clear on which way the plugs go into the sockets (they can go either way) so if, like me you can't get it to work, switch off first. then turn the plugs the other way up and restore power.

 

Original comment:

Hi Barry, is there any chance of you helping me out here? I've got one servo and one switch rigged up and nothing works (the display & buttons are ok). After reading other threads who have had similar negative experiences, I am about to ditch this in the bin, until I read your "...............programming and operation is very straightforward........"

I can't get to grips with it and the connectors bare no resemblance at all to the diagram - it's double dutch to me.

I am a qualified electronics engineer as well so this "Taiwanese English" booklet versus diagram has got me stumped!!

 

Cheers

Robert

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Hi Robert - glad it's working now. I didn't find the manual too bad but then maybe it just got me on a good day and I was lucky with the plugs going in the right way.

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Cheers Barry, yes sounds like you had a good day! I was obviously "not in the right mood" - I didn't want to damn Peco at all as their stuff is very good, it was just a frustrating exercise at the time..................Anyway, I have yet to design the underside of the board so quite looking forward to it now it's working!

I'll try a couple on some of the points as well (although I have bought the "Conrad" ones which I've used before). It looks like the switching for colour lights is a good idea, I tried a couple of LEDs to see the effect and I like it. I will be having a couple of semaphores but the rest are colour lights so that'll be ideal. I might, through some turn of fate, be able to hook up the semaphores mechanically to the servo horns so they operate at the same time. I'll have to have my good head on that day!

Thanks for your response.

All the best.

Robert

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