Modbury - 2mm Finescale (Brunel's Baulk Road)

Very impressive start, Ian. I don't recall seeing the slide support parts modelled so well in larger scales. What section is the Association "Plain Rail"? Is it just a simple bar shape?

 

Looking forward to seeing this develop.

 

Nick

Very impressive start, Ian. I don't recall seeing the slide support parts modelled so well in larger scales. What section is the Association "Plain Rail"? Is it just a simple bar shape?

 

Looking forward to seeing this develop.

 

Nick

Nick,

 

The Association Plain Rail is simply code 40 (0.040" high x 0.5mm) nickel silver strip (bar shape) - It's what I've used for the stock rail.  

 

Obviously it doesn't have any flanges at the bottom (i.e it's not an upside down T shape) but hopefully in 2mm this won't be too noticeable.  I did give consideration to trying to manufacture some "Bridge Rail" section (without the longitudinal recess beneath) but experiments were at best inconsistent and at worst a complete failure!!  I am considering the possibility of adding the feet of the bridge rail with some 0.010" square material (probably plasticard) after all of the construction has been completed, but again I'm not convinced that it will be overly obvious by it's absence.  An example of the code 40 plain rail soldered directly on top of PCB baulks (without any attempt at the bridge rail "feet" can be seen on my experimental photo plank below :

 

Your thoughts would be welcomed.

 

Ian

Way to go Ian !

It's bad enough doing this in 4mm, and I should know !

I produced my switch blades in exactly the same way which took away any associated strain on the rails and worked well. It gets even better when you use the pointwork etch from BGS stores.

 

So.......when will you start on the mixed gauge aspect ? Don't even go there !!!!

 

Well done keep it up very enjoyable.

 

Best

Grahame

Hi Ian,

 

I can imagine the difficulties in trying to make your own 2mm scale bridge rail Perhaps someone with wire-drawing equipment might be able to do it but you'd probably need to buy several kilometers to make it worth their while.

 

Would 10thou not be a bit thick, even if you were trying to represent both the rail foot and the wooden spacer underneath? As it is, the code 40 bar looks quite good, though, particularly with a bit of residual solder. I wonder if careful use of a scrawker along the baulks, holding a piece of metal sheet against the rail edge would allow you to give the impression of a step between rail and baulk? It might help to tin the whole surface of the baulks first so that there was some solder to scrape off. That and careful differential painting of the baulks and where the rail should be might do the trick.

 

Just thinking out loud, I've not tried it other than to run a scrawker down the edge of BGS 4mm rail to clean up stray solder...

 

Nick

Way to go Ian ! It's bad enough doing this in 4mm, and I should know ! I produced my switch blades in exactly the same way which took away any associated strain on the rails and worked well. It gets even better when you use the pointwork etch from BGS stores. So.......when will you start on the mixed gauge aspect ? Don't even go there !!!! Well done keep it up very enjoyable. Best Grahame

Grahame,

Thank you for the positive comments.  Luckily, I've based my period at c1906, so I don't need to try mixed gauge :-)

The idea is to drill a 4mm diameter hole through the baseboard where the pivot pin is so that I can restrain it with a simple PVC sleeve cut from some suitable sized flex - this will allow me to remove the switches in the event of a breakage with limited disturbance.  The toe end will have a tie bar rod attached which will go beneath the stock rail to allow the switch to be moved and also prevent it from lifting.  That's the theory anyway ;-)

 

 

Hi Ian,

 

I can imagine the difficulties in trying to make your own 2mm scale bridge rail Perhaps someone with wire-drawing equipment might be able to do it but you'd probably need to buy several kilometers to make it worth their while.

 

Would 10thou not be a bit thick, even if you were trying to represent both the rail foot and the wooden spacer underneath? As it is, the code 40 bar looks quite good, though, particularly with a bit of residual solder. I wonder if careful use of a scrawker along the baulks, holding a piece of metal sheet against the rail edge would allow you to give the impression of a step between rail and baulk? It might help to tin the whole surface of the baulks first so that there was some solder to scrape off. That and careful differential painting of the baulks and where the rail should be might do the trick.

 

Just thinking out loud, I've not tried it other than to run a scrawker down the edge of BGS 4mm rail to clean up stray solder...

 

Nick

Nick,

I suspect that 10 thou would be overtrick but initially I thought that it might compensate for the over height rail so might be in proportion.  In retrospect it will probably be a bit of a faff to fit anyway so I will probably try representing the foot with either scraping away any solder as you suggest or even just a thin paint line might suggest the foot.  One of the nice things about 2mm is that you can get away with leaving off some detail much better than you can in the larger scales :-)

 

Thanks again,

 

Ian

I do like the idea of the pivot (not so sure about the actual drilling mind you) and the results so far looks good.

I think you can probably get away with the feet of the bridge rail perhaps just let the rust paint of the side lap onto the bulk a little. The only snag I can see is the association plain rail is a bit high. I became quite familiar with the bridge rail as it forms many fence posts in the Forest of Dean and it is more square than bullhead rail still it is 2mm and I haven't seen better yet.

Don

Just seen the photos on the other thread it does look very good.

Don

Just seen the photos on the other thread it does look very good.

Don

Don,

Thank you.  I am progressing slowly - I've now completed all of the "down" side of the loop on that first board and put in the switches for the next turnout.  I've been taking photos as I go with a view to initially putting another posting on my blog and ultimately writing an article for the 2mm magazine.  I've also ordered some bits and bobs from Eileen's so that I can make the TOU's.  I intend operating them with memory wire actuators, the prototypes of which look very promising!

 

Ian