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Stools, Cranks & Point Rodding!


wenlock

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Before I start painting and ballasting the trackwork I want to tackle the point rodding. A number of years ago I made the mistake on a 4mm layout of ballasting first, I then spent hours digging up small patches of ballast so that I could install the rodding stools! Armed with a copy of GWR journal number 89, Steven Williams GWR modelling part 1 and some useful advice from Mike (Stationmaster) I made a start by drawing a schematic of where the runs needed to go. Once this had been completed I placed an order from Wizard models of MSE's rodding stools, etched brass cranks and 0.8mm Nickel Silver wire. The stools are made from white metal and can be cut quite easily to the required length with a sharp scalpel blade.

 

Model Signal Engineering stools

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Stools cut to length

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The stools need raising on blocks to make sure that the rodding isn't covered during ballasting. Spare sleepers were cut to suitable lengths and the white metal stools were glued in position using Cyanoacrylate.

 

Sleeps cut to form blocks

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Stools glued in position on blocks

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Cranks and compensators were built using components from MSE's etched brass fret. Bolt heads were pressed out on the bases, then Carrs 188 solder paste was used to assemble the components using a Miniflame torch.

 

Etched brass fret of cranks and pulleys from Model Signal Engineering

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Etched brass components

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Assembled components

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The stools were glued in position onto the baseboard tops using cyanoacrylate. A scale 6 foot length of sleeper was used as a jig to maintain the spacing between the individual blocks. A length of 0.8mm Nickel Silver wire was used to ensure that the blocks and stools were in the right alignment with each other.

 

Stools and blocks glued in position

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Once the stools had set in position the Nickel Silver wire was cut to length and installed in position on top of the stools. The ends of each run needed to be bent down to meet the cranks and compensators which are set at a lower height than the stools. Once i was happy with the alignment of the wire rodding, it was soldered to any etched brass components and glue onto the stools using cyanoacrylate.

 

Double slip and compensator

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Double compensator and runs leading under overbridge

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I was concerned that if I used Nickel Silver rodding where it crossed under the track it could lead to shorting if it touched the rails. With this in mind I chickened out and used plastic rod in these areas!

 

Plastic rodding running under trackwork.

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I need to make a representation of the facing point lock that would have been situated under the bridge. I still need to make the detection bars and the cover, but the cranks and rodding runs have been installed.

 

Facing point lock

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View towards bridge

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Overall view of progress so far

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Well that's the progress so far! Quite what the 517 in the last picture is doing shunting a coach into the goods shed remains a mystery, but I'm sure someone will have some explaining to do!

 

I'm planning on staining the sleepers and making a start on the ballasting as the next project on the layout. I also need to decide on a signal box, I'm wondering if I could get away with using this offering from Peco as starting point http://www.peco-uk.com/product.asp?strParents=3309,3316&CAT_ID=3317&P_ID=18185 or would that be a cop out!?

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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Just a thought deriving from the rodding before/after ballasting question, Dave. Will you paint them before or after ballasting? I'm really looking forward to seeing some correctly painted rodding. I think most folk probably believe it was always a dirty black or unpainted but, if you're not aware of it, there's some useful information in the 1894 and 1907 Signal Department painting instructions. Copies of these can be found at the bottom of this page. The Victorian/Edwardian GWR was rather colourful :O

 

Nick

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 I think most folk probably believe it was always a dirty black or unpainted but, if you're not aware of it, there's some useful information in the 1894 and 1907 Signal Department painting instructions. Copies of these can be found at the bottom of this page. The Victorian/Edwardian GWR was rather colourful :O

 

I didn't expect that!

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Guest Simon Dunkley

Posted

Before you begin ballasting, it might be worth considering mounting the ground signals and also routing signal wire which would have crossed under the track just like the point rodding.
You've done it again!Another good idea. Are you trying to wind me up?

 

Of course, when I say friends... ;)
You really know how to wound, don't you?
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  • RMweb Gold

there's some useful information in the 1894 and 1907 Signal Department painting instructions. Copies of these can be found at the bottom of this page. The Victorian/Edwardian GWR was rather colourful :O

 

Nick

 

Fascinating stuff. Quite detailed, even including the rainwater casks. They would be proud in Brussels!

 

One wonders if similarly detailed instructions existed for other parts of the organisation too (I have this vision of the Lost Ark of GWR livery schemes sitting somewhere in a Swindon attic) - or if it was just the Signalling Dept who were particularly pedantic about painting schemes, given the safety issues.

 

I'm intrigued by the need to request permission from the Divisional Superintendent *and* the Signal Engineer to paint windows. I wonder if it had to be in writing? 

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  • RMweb Gold

Just a thought deriving from the rodding before/after ballasting question, Dave. Will you paint them before or after ballasting? I'm really looking forward to seeing some correctly painted rodding. I think most folk probably believe it was always a dirty black or unpainted but, if you're not aware of it, there's some useful information in the 1894 and 1907 Signal Department painting instructions. Copies of these can be found at the bottom of this page. The Victorian/Edwardian GWR was rather colourful :O

 

Nick

Wow! Thanks for that Nick, the information about the rodding colour is completely new to me :-) I wonder what shade of red "Torbay Bright" was? it's obviously different from "Torbay Signal Red" or they wouldn't specify the two colours. The early GWR was as you say a much more colourful beast than I realised, I love the idea of red rodding, cranks and even facing point lock covers! I think the logical way of moving forward on my project is to stain the sleepers, paint the rodding red and then ballast the track. I can then tone things down a bit with some airbrush weathering:-)

 

If anyone's got a pot of "Torbay Bright" they don't need, then I'm your man!

 

Dave

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I thought you might like that. Yes, it is quite a surprise when you first read it. I'd always assumed black because the rodding often looks very dark in turn-of-the-century photos, but we all know what orthochromatic fim does to reds. btw. the 'Torbay' part of the names refers to the Torbay Paint Co, long term suppliers to the GWR, South Devon, etc. from mid-1800s including, I believe, the original paint for the Royal Albert bridge.

 

Nick

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  • RMweb Gold

I thought you might like that. Yes, it is quite a surprise when you first read it. I'd always assumed black because the rodding often looks very dark in turn-of-the-century photos, but we all know what orthochromatic fim does to reds. btw. the 'Torbay' part of the names refers to the Torbay Paint Co, long term suppliers to the GWR, South Devon, etc. from mid-1800s including, I believe, the original paint for the Royal Albert bridge.

 

Nick

Certainly do like it! I thinks it's all to easy when looking at B/W pictures to form the impression that the Victorians/Edwardians lived in a dull monochrome world. The more I discover about the subject, the more I realise how wrong that impression is!

 

I wonder if the Torbay Paint company has any colour sample cards lurking anywhere, it would be fabulous to know what shade of red was used for the rodding. The term "bright" makes me think of china red rather than red oxide type shades, but I could be completely wrong!

 

All fascinating stuff and the fuel for much pondering!

 

Dave

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There's a small book on the history of the company though I've not seen a copy and an ebay description mentioned only b&w pictures, also a few words here, but otherwise I didn't find anything when I was looking last year or this morning.

 

I've sent an email to Brixham museum to ask if they have anything that might help distinguish the colours.

 

Nick

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  • RMweb Gold

 

I've sent an email to Brixham museum to ask if they have anything that might help distinguish the colours.

 

Nick

Excellent stuff! Let's hope Brixham museum have some interesting information.

 

Dave

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...I've sent an email to Brixham museum to ask if they have anything that might help distinguish the colours.

 

Just for the record, I've not received any reply or acknowledgement from the museum. Maybe if someone is in the area it might be worth trying the direct approach.

 

Nick

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A bit late I know, but I was scratching my head over how to do the point rodding on my layout.  This article is a god send, thanks so much.

 

I have the Ambis cranks and etched stools but Hobby Holidays has very little of the Ambis product line so that's disappointing.

 

John

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