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Some progress with the U28

buffalo

Entry posted by buffalo

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2009-11-28: Brief update added at end of this entry.

 

Since the last entry I've made some progress on the IKB U28 kit. The body is now complete and internal partitions have been added using 10 thou brass. I mentioned that I'd just started this kit, but I also have a separate chassis like the one in this kit that I built about a year ago. It has been languishing at the back of the bench since then because I was never happy with the suspension system. It has sprung internal hornblocks which I could not get to move freely enough. At any one time some would be fine but not all six. At present it needs some minor repairs to the brake rigging and I may try some alternative suspension methods. Still, for now it will do to stand the coach body on for photographic purposes.

 

So here is the current state of play; oil lamps to be fitted on the roof, then a little more stray solder to remove before a final clean and priming of the body, then I'll have to think about the chassis.

 

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Update 2009-11-28: Today the minor repairs to the chassis have been done. A couple of the pins in the outside clasp brake linkage and a couple of safety straps underneath have been replaced. I've also been tweaking the hornguides and think it may now be possible to get the IKB springing working.

 

Captive nuts have been added to the inner false ends so that all can be screwed together. On the roof, holes have been drilled and seven of the eight oil lamps fitted. Unfortunately, one of the angled bases for the lamps disappeared towards the floor and, despite several sessions on my hands and knees, has not yet reappeared. Past experience suggests that it will remain hidden until I've made a replacement :rolleyes:

 

Although they are shown in the kit instructions, the small filler caps that sit next to the large oil lamp pots were not included in the kit, so I'll have to make these. I've not decided yet whether to make them from brass or plastic rod.

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Miss Prism

Looking very nice - I like those chunky bonnet vents in particular - so much better than the skinny etched offerings in some kits.

 

Not sure what to suggest on the underframe front. A couple of Bill's external units for the outer axles and keeping your inside one on the middle would improve the rollability, but would probably mean too much destruction of what you've already got in that build state. I find with internal units (although I haven't tried Bill's) that a lot of running in will improve things a bit, but they always need lubrication. At least you haven't got the 'perfect pinpoints' problem of it running away with only a puff of wind. You could pretend it's a brake compo...

 

Do you use solder paint for the bolections?

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Mikkel
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Very nice indeed!

 

I've been wanting to see a build of these kits for a long time so this is excellent. Would like to challenge myself with one of them at some point. I like the end sections to the roof which I assume means that you can fit it without actually fixing it in place?

 

You mention using 10thou brass for the internal partitions. Does this mean they do not come with the kit then?

 

 

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buffalo

Thanks both for the encouragement :)

 

Looking very nice - I like those chunky bonnet vents in particular - so much better than the skinny etched offerings in some kits.

Yes, they are rather good castings. The only problem is that from one end it is difficult to see which way up they are meant to be. The other end and the face are fine.

 

Not sure what to suggest on the underframe front. A couple of Bill's external units for the outer axles and keeping your inside one on the middle would improve the rollability, but would probably mean too much destruction of what you've already got in that build state.

I was thinking along similar lines and have various bits and pieces I might try. At present the main problem is not rollability but smooth vertical movement of the sprung hornblocks.

 

Do you use solder paint for the bolections?

Yes, but for these I just dipped the iron in the pot when tinning the backs of the mouldings. I then used plenty of flux on the recess in the body, clipped the bolection on with an aluminium hair grip and applied heat from the inside.

 

I've been wanting to see a build of these kits for a long time so this is excellent. Would like to challenge myself with one of them at some point. I like the end sections to the roof which I assume means that you can fit it without actually fixing it in place?

Yes, the body ends, inner ends and chassis all have matching holes so that all three parts can be bolted together. You can see the chassis holes on top just behind the buffer beam either side of the safety chains. I expect this arrangement to be very helpful when it comes to painting. You've also reminded me that I need to solder the captive nuts on the inner ends.

 

You mention using 10thou brass for the internal partitions. Does this mean they do not come with the kit then?

No partitions or other internal detail are provided.

 

Nick

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