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Keeping up With the Pacer

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Ravenser

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I promised someone I'd post a few notes over the weekend on some of the bits I'd been doing to the Pacer ; it's Monday, I haven't, so here we go.

 

I've assembled and fixed in place the rear trailing wheel assembly. Unfortunately its not absolutely spot on: I reckon the hole is about 0.35mm out to one side. I've made one attempt to drift the hole sidewards with a file , and stuck in a scrap of 40 thou plasticard into the recess above to take the thread , and drilled it out. However this doesn't seem to have eliminated the error, though I hope it did manage to reduce it. The wheels are square and in line - just very slightly off set. Remove the off set and they're about 87 degrees to the chassis.. The Hornby Pacer had a swivelling truck here originally , and the Branchlines assembly is not actually immovably tight to the chassis - it will pivot under a little pressure. I'm not sure whether this may not be deliberate.

 

At any rate , at this point I don't think I can do a lot about it, and I'm inclined to live with it, proceed with the build and see how we go. If it proves to be an issue, I'll see if I can revisit it

 

Meanwhile I've been removing the Black Box for the weight , and here are the shots to show the results:

 

blogentry-80-12595955291939.jpg

 

This shows the lower view of the chassis - the black underframe box has been taken back to solebar level and a new floor added with 30 thou plasticard. The detail on the side of the black box has been fretted out with files and knife. I've also salvaged the engine block shape marked on the bottom of the underframe box and built it up with 3 layers of 40 thou plasticard, filed to shape. This will be glued onto the new raised floor of the underframe weight box

 

Here's the top view, showing the remaining recess for weight. I intend filling this with lead sheet, araldited in place - as lead is a much denser material than steel, this should compensate for the fact that the recess is much smaller than when it contained Hornby's steel block. And if that's not enough, the seating moulding is raised , and there should be enough room underneath it to glue another strip of lead

 

blogentry-80-12595955751645.jpg

 

As an aside , at a show a few weeks ago I picked up a bargain for ??4-50 :

 

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I know the first release Hornby wagon was heavily criticised when it first came out and they subsequently retooled it . I assume this wagon was so cheap not just because it was unboxed , but presumably because it must be the first version and nobody wants it? Without detailed info readily to hand (cue usual moan about state of BR wagon books ) I can't identify what may be wrong with it , so I'm inclined just to weather it and hope. Does anyone recall what the problems were supposed to be - or whether this is in fact the original version? It's just possible I might have struck lucky. I've fitted the usual long NEM Kadees

 

 

 

I've been doing one or two other things, but they're from a completely different area of interest , so will go in a seperate post.

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hi, i'm no expert, but I think that is the origianal wagon. The faults I think it has are;

..a, the body is about 2mm too tall, ..b, the top rail of the body should be angled 45 degres not flat and ..c, as beast says, I think it had the incorrect number of (end I think) ribs. Having said that, I have 2 of them, I just angled the top rail with a file and painted it gold again, painted the inside rust colour (a big improvement) weathered them filth and just lived with the height and ribs problem. cheers Nick.

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Just to answer comments: - thanks to beast and 66540Ruby for info on the MHA. I now have to find a photo and count ribs.....

 

I've used the 12mm disc wheels supplied in the Branchlines pack

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