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class 50 scratchbuild 7


sleeper

662 views

I had a choice of three BR blue liveries all blue of course but they vary in the yellow panels. One type is with a small yellow end panel only, one has full yellow ends wrapping right round to include the cab door, but with black round the windscreens and thirdly the one I chose full yellow ends wrapping round but with a blue panel beneath the side windows and yellow round the front windows too.

I was a little concerned that if the doors were yellow and had to be rubbed down it would be near impossible as the doors were recessed slightly.

It wasn't till I got into the masking off that I realised I'd picked the most difficult to mask, there is a little curve in the top of the blue side panel which involved cutting the masking tape round a piece of 3mm plastic tube with the craft knife, all good fun!

This first photo is a really cruel close up of the paint job, it looks better 'in the flesh' probably only because you can choose to ignore the bad bits, whereas in the photo they smack you in the eye.

 

blogentry-15272-0-28431600-1439230570.jpg

 

I've started detailing it, you can just see some of the grab rails (4) fitted to the front. I'm also working on the headcode boxes. I'm not happy with these. I had made them shallow thinking that I could add a deeper front, which I did, but having done so I now realise the boxes should have been deeper from the very start. This has shown up now at this late stage, with the Shawplan 4mm round etched horn grilles I'm going to fit, being a knats too large for the depth of the face of the box. I'll have to solder them to a piece of brass wire and mount them in the mini drill to take them down slightly. A real pain but less work than altering the headcode boxes.

 

blogentry-15272-0-61811500-1439230589.jpg

 

in this picture are some masks, masking tape cut on the silhouette cutter, this will be stuck to the face of the headcode box to form a guide for painting the domino spots on the face of the box. Will it work? Yes it will, I know because I've already done it once. Unfortunately the dots looked too close together, so the one on the right in the photo is the mk2 version.

I drew the box's face in Inkscape, using a head-on photo as a guide to getting the right layout. I first tried cutting them from a sticky labels sheet but it didn't seem to want to work, the cutter just tore up the label. Next I cut the design on a sheet of copy paper attached to the cutting mat. I carefully noted just where the mat lay in relation to the rollers on the cutter, released the mat and stuck masking tape exactly over the images that were cut into the paper. You can see the black outlines where I highlighted the outer edges with a pen.

I then very carefully lined up the rollers with the sheet again and re-cut the images. My luck was in, the cutter cut right bang on target, in fact there was only half a mil of tape left on each side. These were carefully teased off the mat with a scalpel and applied to the face of the headcode box. I painted the dominos with white acrylic paint and the places where the horn grilles would go in grey so if they showed through the grill it wouldn't show up.

What a pity the dots were wrongly spaced because I now have to go all through the procedure again. I wonder if I will have the same luck again?

We'll see!

cheers for now

Roly

4 Comments


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  • RMweb Gold

Evening Roly,

 

Blimey! This has come on nicely since I last saw it.

 

I'm amazed this is done with card. It really does show what can be done with this medium.  

 

Personally I like the paint finish.  

 

Shame about the headcode.  What number are you giving it and will it be named?

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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hiya Mark,

 

Thanks for the kind compliment

I'm really pleased with the way it's coming on, I just hope I don't do anything to mess it up.

The paint job is sort of ok but it could have been so much better if I'd taken more trouble and built up more paint layers. I'm finding that cardboard doesn't take paint like plastic, with plastic card the surface is almost dead flat, not so card, it has a grain and that can still be seen now. It'll have a coat of matt varnish when it's finished so hopefully that'll cover it. I've just redone the headcode and it's been successful, phew!

It will have the number 50016 which was named Barham so it might get name plates if all turns out well.with the finish

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  • RMweb Gold

Good choice of number and name. 

 

Good news on the headcode as well.

 

Like its been said all along its a learning curve and I'd imagine you have a porous surface to work with the card.  Is there anyway you can seal it prior to applying primer say with varnish or something like Kleer?

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Hi Mark,

As you probably know the traditional way was to use Shellac but I don't think it's available now, in it's natural form, certainly not here in France. There is probably a synthetic equivalent (knotting is an example).

I sealed the body with several spray coats of hair lacquer prior to painting, maybe not enough though as I had to save some because I was going out that night. !!

I agree, Kleer would be good Idea but as I've already found out, one of the things that  should be avoided is wetting the card too much as that causes it to expand and separate the laminations.

Some more experimentation is needed on that topic, ( homework guys). it's possible that Kleer might make a good laminating adhesive, but then again would further applications dissolve the Kleer already used as a glue? 

 

Roly

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