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Twin miniature arm ground signal


wenlock

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To complete the signalling on my layout I need something to control the exit of traffic from the exchange siding across the double slip. One route leads out onto the main and the other onto a short head shunt, so two arms would be required. I could have employed another twin arm siding signal similar to the one that controls the exit of the loop, but liked the idea of a ground signal to add a bit of variety. As my layout is set in Edwardian times it predates ground signals using discs to indicate routes. In thIs period miniature arms on short posts were used to to control stock movements. I searched around to find a suitable kit that I could use to build a 7mm scale version, but unfortunately nothing appears to be available. I suppose there probably isn't a huge market for a GWR signal that was obsolete 100 years ago!

 

I decided that the only option was to have a go at scratch building something to represent this long gone esoteric beastie:-)

 

I want the signal to be operational and plan on using servos to control the arms in a similar fashion to the other signals on the layout. For this reason I decided to construct it from brass which should have adequate strength despite the small size of the components.

 

One of the features of this type of ground signal were the position of the balance weights. Most GWR signals that I've seen have these weights fitted to the external walls of the post, however this type of ground signal has them set inside an arched housing at the base of the post.

 

I started construction by soldering three lengths of square brass tubing together and then filling out the U shaped slot in the base of the thicker piece.

 

Brass tubing soldered together

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Balance weights were cobbled together using left over components from the MSE kits that I used to build the other signals on the layout. A pivot hole was drilled through the wide section of the post, so that a 0.7mm wire could be inserted through the post and the two balance weights to hold them in position. A flat piece of brass was also cut and soldered to the base of the post to allow the signal to be installed on the layout and stop it falling over during construction! Small L shaped pieces of brass were then soldered to the post so that lamps could be mounted on them later on.

 

Post, base and balance weights

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The brass wire was threaded through the post and balance weights and then carefully fixed in position. I chickened out of using solder for fear of gumming the whole thing solid and instead used 5 minute epoxy resin, with Vaseline as a barrier on the pivot points. Lamps were found in my bits box and once again fixed in position again using epoxy resin.

 

Weights and lamps in situ

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Small sections of tubing were cut to act as spacers to make sure the signal arm cleared the lamp lens during rotation.

 

Tubing and pivot wire

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The signal arms were cut from pieces of scrap brass fret left over from my Dean Goods project, it just goes to show never throw anything away! The arms were drilled to take an 0.8mm wire and then brass wire was used to form the pivot points. Operating wires were bent from 0.5mm wire and clearances were checked during movement of the arms.

 

Arms and operating wires

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Once I was satisfied that things worked as they should I could make a start on making the arm look more like a GWR miniature arm.

 

The lenses were cut from coloured acetate sheet available from Model Signal Engineering. I sharpened the inside edge of a piece of brass tubing and found by twisting this on top of the acetate it was fairly easy to cut out circles that could be used to form the signal arm lenses.

 

Acetate lenses

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Notches were cut into the brass arm to allow the fitting of the lenses using a 2mm abrasive bur. The signal arms have a raised border around their edge and I formed this by using cyanoacrylate to glue Plastikard microstrip around the edges of the brass signal arm.

 

Addition of lenses and raised edging

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The raised border around the arm also continues round the signal arm's lenses. I made curved sections of Plastikard microstrip by wrapping a length around a 2mm diameter bur and then placing it in boiling water. Once the water had cooled down the plastic strip had thermoformed into a permanent curve.

 

Plasticard strip around bur

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Sections of the curved microstrip were cut and then glued into position around the lens using cyanoacrylate glue.

 

Sections of curved plasticard strip

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After much fiddling and a bit of light sanding with an old nail file "borrowed" from Mrs Wenlock the arm started looking quite promising, so the same technique was used to make the second arm.

 

Finished arm

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The signal was then primed with an acid etch primer and painted using Humbrol enamels. I've painted the post in my interpretation of "Torbay Bright" which I hope is appropriate and convincing!

 

Finished signal ready for installation on layout

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The next step is to mount the signal alongside the double slip on the layout, but I think I've gone on enough for one post, so we'll leave that for another day

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

  • Like 6

17 Comments


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  • RMweb Gold

What a lovely signal Dave. I haven't noticed this prototype before, ie a two-arm version. Beautiful work!

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There are times when none of the rating options seem adequate, today is one of those times - my tea and toast went cold whilst I was engrossed in the description.

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The toast wasn't just cold, it was all gone by the time I got to the table. Thanks for going through the steps of this with photos. Because of this forum and the wealth of experience, and creativity in many aspects of the hobby that's demonstrated here, it's inspired me greatly to start getting out all the kits, paints, plastikard and other stuff gathering dust, stop just reading about it and actually do it. Boiling Plastikard? kettle's on. But fresh tea first. Great stuff and beautiful work.

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Dave,

Very informative and a lovely signal to boot!  I must say that it is HUGE!!!  :-)

 

I want to make a couple of these (single arm ones) to control access across my crossing from down main to goods loop.  I may just represent the white border on mine with running white paint around the edge of the arm though :-)

 

I look forward to seeing it in place on the layout.

 

Ian

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  • RMweb Gold
What superb, inspiring work.
Thanks Al!:-)

 

What a lovely signal Dave. I haven't noticed this prototype before, ie a two-arm version. Beautiful work!
Thanks Mikkel!:-) Twin arm versions were quite unusual, but Mike (stationmaster) says they existed and that's good enough for me! I do hope he approves of this one!

 

Very good work
Thanks Barry!:-)

 

There are times when none of the rating options seem adequate, today is one of those times - my tea and toast went cold whilst I was engrossed in the description.
Thanks Graham!:-). I'm only sorry I spoilt your breakfast!

 

The toast wasn't just cold, it was all gone by the time I got to the table. Thanks for going through the steps of this with photos. Because of this forum and the wealth of experience, and creativity in many aspects of the hobby that's demonstrated here, it's inspired me greatly to start getting out all the kits, paints, plastikard and other stuff gathering dust, stop just reading about it and actually do it. Boiling Plastikard? kettle's on. But fresh tea first. Great stuff and beautiful work.
Thanks Londonbus!:-). Really glad you found it inspirational, you're quite right the forum is wonderful for increasing motivation!:-)

 

My wife made me some excellent toast this morning. Just sayin'.
Why does toast always taste better if someone else has made it!

 

Dave,Very informative and a lovely signal to boot!  I must say that it is HUGE!!!  :-) I want to make a couple of these (single arm ones) to control access across my crossing from down main to goods loop.  I may just represent the white border on mine with running white paint around the edge of the arm though :-) I look forward to seeing it in place on the layout. Ian
Thanks Ian, glad you like it!:-). I don't envy you making a 2mm version, this one was quite fiddly enough for me!Thanks to all for the positive comments.Best wishesDave
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Guest Simon Dunkley

Posted

Just calling it as it is: not just great modelling, but sharing how you went about it, and frequently on your blog, the free interchange of ideas without any toys leaving prams at high velocity!

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I agree with Ian. It looked enormous and then once the lamps and balance arms appeared I realised I needed to take my magnifier off! :jester: Beautiful.

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  • RMweb Gold

Great piece of work Dave and very informative. Do you know when they changed from the arms to a bolted on disc (probably just bolted to the arm)? I had started experimenting with an old MSE kit (no longer listed) for a 1910 version which seems to have the same frame (whitemetal in the kit) etc. but comes with the discs. Seeing as I am sort of basing it on 1904 and the signalling would date from the 1894 re-arrangements I probably should opt for the arms. So at least I now know how it can be done whether I succeed will be a different matter. But thanks for the inspiration.

 

Don

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Don, thanks for the positive comments :-)

 

I haven't got any first source information, but in Stephen Williams' Great Western Branchline Modelling part 1 it says the following :-

 

Miniature Arm ground signal was introduced around 1892.

 

Problems of sighting led to the introduction of a new style in 1908 which had a white semi circular disc instead of the miniature arm.

 

By the end of the First World War a fully circular disc had been adapted as standard.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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  • RMweb Gold
Thanks Dave. that seems to settle it, I probably need the arm type.

Don

 

Yes it certainly looks that way, I think once you've made a start you'll probably quite enjoy making it!:-)

 

I've spent the evening installing my example on the layout. Fiddly but very satisfying once it all works :-)

 

Dave

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