2015/2016. Dave Andrews GWR Castle kit.
Entry posted by ROSSPOP
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No longer available so lucky to have snapped this one up on Ebay.
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This project is to be a gradual enterprise as it was really an impulse purchase during 2014 when I had committed myself to building a GWR modular diorama/layout.
The layout is going well but by the end of the year I needed a break from it as I have always been a solo railway modeller.
This kit was calling out to me....... so I began construction January last year.
Dave Andrews has withdrawn this kit for the time being as there are some niggling problems that some might find annoying.
This is the most complex kit and largest loco I have started in 7mm . If you have read my other blogs you know I prefer a sprung loco chassis and I am prone to replace most visually obvious parts from HobbyDevelopments, PR Components and Laurie Griffin in order that all my loco stock are of the same standard.
I`ve never made a `state of the art kit` so I`m not sure what that really means but the etches in this kit for both loco and tender are well produced.
Dave advises in the instructions not to use the correct size wheels for his kit because of the tight clearances between the front drivers, but having asked about others experiences on the O Gauge Guild Forum many have used the correct size wheels with no problems.
I find a cuppa and a chocolate macaroon highly advantageous at the very beginning.......
As ever I start with the coupling rods......
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the etched loco springs but I need to fit cast white metal versions to match my other stock.
Because of the issue with the front drivers already mentioned, I needed to markout as accurately as I can the frame cutouts for the roller bearings, any error here or wandering away from the kit designers intentions will be diasterous when it comes to fitting the crossheads and front wheel brakes.
Not a lot of space !!!
It`s always a tentative time marking up and cutting out the frames for hornblocks. It is the most significant action in determining whether you will get a trouble free chassis and perhaps the whole point of a loco`s construction..... a faultlessly running model.
I usually power off the centre axle but this kit has quite a bit of detailing between the frames, so I will be using the rear axle .
I have invested in a quality ABC Maxon motor and 38.1 gearbox. She will eventually be DCC sound.
Everything goes together well. and using an axle jig ensures accuracy.
I have replaced the inside motion bracket gubbins with HobbyDevelopment products.
As expected not a lot of room between the drivers.
All is well in the chassis dept....
No problems with the front bogie framework. A very workable and sure footed design.
On to the cylinder blocks and crossheads. This assembly is very much part of the `face` of a GWR castle. There are enough parts to consider making a moving relief valve which connects through the front framework via a swivel linkage.
Unfortunately we come across the kits first niggling problem as the etched holes in the fold up cylinder blocks are misaligned.
Easily sorted once you find out how it should look.
Some very nice lost wax parts to make the slide bars , but does require fettling and drilling.
The relief valve rod is too short to make into a moving part so I needed to fabricate a longer length during my attempt at using the ` Guy Williams flicking link movement`.
Some of the cylinder blocks detailing parts are also white metal so you need to prioritise the order of solder assembly to avoid melting them.
Sorted !!!
There are no problems with construction of the footplate.
Annealing helps with forming the curved parts.
The splashers need filing to get a finer top edge which will be left shining brass in the finished form.
The firebox shaping is helped by the parts supplied and by annealing.
The smokebox needs soldering with care as the front is a white metal.
The boiler is soldered up in the usual fashion.
All three boiler sections are bolted together.
It will take time to file and fettle around the base of the firebox to get a level fit between the rear splashers. Care must be taken to get it all level with the smokebox and its whitemetal saddle at the front.
Once this is achieved the boiler bands can be tinned and soldered in place.
The second niggle is that nearly all the pre etched washout plug holes in the sides of the firebox are in the wrong place, mostly too low and this takes time to make good.
An error of my own making is that I chose the wrong shape on the front edge of the extended frames and had to rebuild it into a curved front.
The front bogie has its own central spring and so I had to balance the weight using lead sheet. these will not be finally used until completion of the build.
Roof and cab is well detailed and care needs to be taken in bending the roof to the correct profile.
At this point in the build I took a break........
Building recommenced this January commencing with adding some footplate details.
Then a brief push by hand trial through my B6 turnouts.
Encouraged by this I have pushed on with finishing the chassis detailing with fitting the braking system, and fitting the plunger pickups.
She currently sits in my cabinet calling me to do further work........
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