Ullypug's tales from the tinking table

Andrew,

 

The one failing that I have found with the Comet chassis technique is that the cut out to take the spring goes up quite high on the frames and makes them a bit prone to bending at this point.  For this reason, I felt it was necessary to sweat a thin sheet stiffener across the top of where the springs sit.

 

The springs are also prone to dissapearing - I eventually soldered them to the top of the hornblock!

Andrew,

 

The one failing that I have found with the Comet chassis technique is that the cut out to take the spring goes up quite high on the frames and makes them a bit prone to bending at this point.  For this reason, I felt it was necessary to sweat a thin sheet stiffener across the top of where the springs sit.

 

The springs are also prone to dissapearing - I eventually soldered them to the top of the hornblock!

Thanks Mark

I'm only using this system rather than CSB's because I already had them. The Comet instructions allude to some 'turnings' that can be used to keep the springs secure?

Andrew

 

The Connecting Rods as supplied in the kit are too short (2mm), I was going to tell Geoff but as he was not well I didn't want to cause him any more stress.

 

I understand the new owner Andrew is aware of the problem.

 

Richard

Andrew

 

The Connecting Rods as supplied in the kit are too short (2mm), I was going to tell Geoff but as he was not well I didn't want to cause him any more stress.

 

I understand the new owner Andrew is aware of the problem.

 

Richard

Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't checked. I'll have to see if I have anything in the spares box!

The Connecting Rods as supplied in the kit are too short (2mm), .....

Wasn't aware of that. Would it be any use to substitute the rods available from Chris Parrish / Perseverance?

Or just make up a set of Gibson Universal ones?

Or just make up a set of Gibson Universal ones?

 

Connecting rods, CK, not coupling rods.

I have an old Perserverance etch somewhere. I wonder if I can find it!

It will turn up...after you've bought another one.

It will turn up...after you've bought another one.

Found it and with it the reason why I hadn't used it. It's 2mm too long! Or it was. It's now been cut down and sweated to a blank piece of nickel silver etch to thicken it up.

 

 

For some reason the motion / slide bar brackets don't appear to be the same width as the slide bars s

 

Andrew,

I seem to remember that Tim Venton had a similar problem when he was building a need chassis for a 55xx.

 

Dave

Connecting rods, CK, not coupling rods.

That would be 'doh!' then.

Just remembered that there is also a Bill Bedford coupling and connecting rods etch for this class, available from Eileen's Emporium. Hopefully the connecting rod length is correct!

After a day of fettling, filing and cursing, I've come to the conclusion that the rods are not the same centres as the wheelbase and therefore have been consigned to the reject bin. I think I'll try this again using my usual csb and High Level approach. At least that way the wheels can be quartered away from the chassis and I know it works. What I currently have doesn't.