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JLTRT Class 40 - D232 Empress of Canada

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Ressaldar

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Hi all,

 

started this beast last week and thought you might be interested in the pick-up method that I have adopted. I decided to take advantage of the fact that with the bogie chassis block and the main chassis both being resin/plastic, I would pick up from one set of wheels on each bogie - I hate using plungers so shorted out six of the Slater's driving wheels. I then drilled a 0.7mm hole in the edge of each bearing flange on the shorted out side, although I have not used the centre bearing as teh wheelbase at 112mm is more than enough to span most point frogs. I then soldered a length of 0.7mm nickel silver wire into one flange and the bent it to come just below the top of the chassis block, introduced four more bends above the centre bearing so that the wire was in line with the slot in the bogie pivot bolt, soldered it in the slot, and repeated the process at the other bearing. The photos explain it better than the words.

 

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Having got the power to the bogie swivel plate it was easy to then slip a connector over the bolt and above the sprung washer and it is held down by the nylock nut and then connected to a chocolate block. Repeat for the other bogie and connect the motors in series and you're away. Or so I thought! Ran fine on the straight but needed the pony trucks to be installed before it would go round any curves without coming off. A good trial run session at the club on Wednesday and all was well.

 

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A rebate has had to be formed in the bogie side, which hopefully shows up on the pictures, to accomodate the wire .

Proceeding with the detailing now - more pictures to come later.

 

regards

 

Mike

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Hi Mike :icon_wave:

 

This is probably a silly question, but could you explain to a wiring Muppet like me :blush: (I have only used all steel wheels on brass bogies before) , how you shorted the six driving wheels so that they pick up current from the tyres :icon_question:

 

Cheers Phill :icon_thumbsup2:

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Hi Phil,

 

I drill a hole through the tread of the wheel at approximately 45 degrees, coming out at about the point where the plastic starts, I then use a circular burr in the mini drill and starting in the edge of the brass centre and obviosly opposite the hole that you have just made, draw the burr towards the outside and repeat this operation until the grove that is formed is no more than 1mm deep, and clean off the residue. Measure the distance of the grove and add 5mm, then using a piece of 0.7mm wire, form a 45 degree bend at the point where the wire goes through the hole, then solder the wire at both ends, not dwelling too long otherwise you could melt the plastic. Then file down the centre ensuring that you have a flat mating surface for the bearing and then file down the protruding wire on the tread - job done. I'll post some photos over the weekend, the loco is in it's box ready to go down the club tonight for another test run.

 

regards

 

Mike

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