Modbury - 2mm Finescale (Brunel's Baulk Road)

Serious work, there.

And in such a small scale.

 

How well does it roll without being pushed?

wow excellent work as always  

 

what do you insulate the bolts with and how is it secured ?

 

wish even one of my attempts at a steamer would roll as well 

 

Nick

That's very good workmanship Ian. I do like the heavy chassis idea. I am assuming there is a thin layer of insulant between the two halves of the chassis. I presume you will not be fitting Simpson springs. Do you ream the axle bushes to 1.5mm or do you drill them at 1.6 (i.e as for the Simpson springs) to give a litlle clearance. I am assuming something like tufnol plugs in the thick chassis side tapped to take the bolts. Presumably you would drill and fit the plugs before drill the holes for the bolts.

If you are etching the rods could you not etch the fly cranks too?

 

Don

Very impressive Ian, those cranks must be seriously tiny!

Ian,

Inspirational work.

Duncan

Thank you all for your positive comments!!

 

Serious work, there. And in such a small scale. How well does it roll without being pushed?

Simon, it's not too bad.  There is a very slight tight spot which I will address when I rebuild the chassis after it's been broken down for painting.

 

 

what do you insulate the bolts with and how is it secured ?

 

Nick, the bolts are held in tufnol plugs in the main chassis block.  The fixing points are drilled 1mm, the 1mm thick section of chassis removed and the 1mm holes in the main block opened out to 2.3mm.  Tufnol plugs are turned up and araldited in those holes, and when secure the 1mm section of chassis is bolted back on (hence the fixings outside the extremities of the finished chassis).  The 1mm holes in the 1mm section are used to drill the tufnol plugs 12BA tapping size and the plugs tapped 12BA.  The 1mm section is again temporarily removed which it has its holes opened out to 12BA clearance and countersunk.

 

 

That's very good workmanship Ian. I do like the heavy chassis idea. I am assuming there is a thin layer of insulant between the two halves of the chassis. I presume you will not be fitting Simpson springs. Do you ream the axle bushes to 1.5mm or do you drill them at 1.6 (i.e as for the Simpson springs) to give a litlle clearance. I am assuming something like tufnol plugs in the thick chassis side tapped to take the bolts. Presumably you would drill and fit the plugs before drill the holes for the bolts.

If you are etching the rods could you not etch the fly cranks too?

 

Don

 

Don, not my idea, just copying what Nigel Ashton did for his Manor chassis and his Cambrian 0-6-0 that was detailed in the Association magazine a few years back.  I won't be fitting Simpson springs on this one, the centre axle has a little bit of vertical play introduced by filing the bottom/top of the bush.  Because the loco will have outside frames, I was concerned about the extended axles potentially shorting on those if too much play was given to the axles so the bushes are all as purchased - I haven't opened any of them out by drilling or reaming as they were all a good running fit on the wheel axles and axle steel that the gears are on.

I did think about doing the artwork for the fly cranks but decided that it would hold up the build and they are such simple things to make anyway.

 

 

Very impressive Ian, those cranks must be seriously tiny!

 

Dave, thanks.  They are quite small an indication can be seen in one of the photos of them with a ruler.  But then to you 7mm boys even my workshop would seem tiny :-)

 

 

Ian, Inspirational work. Duncan

 

Duncan, thank you.

 

Ian

Excellent work Ian. Given me some good pointers for how I might progress my next loco chassis which is going to need as much weight as possible. Thanks!