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Stour Valley in P4, now with the cork underlay


Fen End Pit

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With the majority of the baseboard work completed on my first two board these were moved up to the railway room from the garage. The 'works' end of Fen End Pit got boxed up and space made to put the new boards in position. I couldn't resist positioning a couple of items of stock on the boards just for fun.

 

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An order to Amazon last week resulted in 4 sheets of 6mm cork 2' x 3' being delivered. I'd deliberately order some quite thick cork available as flat sheets rather than rolls. Some of these made it onto the laser cutter and I was able to mark out the track work, this time including the sleeper positions, from the Templot drawing. There was a little charring on the cuts, I went a little bit too high on the power with the laser. Next time I think I'll just mark the cut lines and finish off with a scalpel. I've mitred the edges slightly to make the cess and stuck down with a thin layer of PVA. I think being 6mm I'll still going to get a bit of sound deadening even with the 'hardness' of PVA holding it down.

 

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You'll see that the last 6mm of cork at the baseboard edges has been replaced by 6mm hardwood. The intention being to give a solid edge at the vulnerable baseboard end. You can also see how I've already cut the slots for the operating mechanism which will drive the switch-blades.

 

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I've also bought some .8mm ply so next step is some sleeper making.

 

David

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Hi David.

It's all looking very good and neat. I must say, the use of your laser to mark the track direct onto the cork overlay is a great idea and avoids any problems of sticking paper templates down, which always seem to wrinkle up however careful you are. Are you going to build all the track, including points, in situ or just use the track markings to locate units made separately?

The position of the base-board joint in the bottom photo looks slightly challenging.in terms of sleeper positioning and rail fixings. On my boards (Delph/Holt), I tried to make all the joints at right angles to the tracks, even if it resulted in boards where the ends were not straight but had angles or steps in them. That has worked well and resulted in all sleepers being one side or the other of the joint line.

Look forward to seeing further progress.

Dave.

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Hi David.

It's all looking very good and neat. I must say, the use of your laser to mark the track direct onto the cork overlay is a great idea and avoids any problems of sticking paper templates down, which always seem to wrinkle up however careful you are. Are you going to build all the track, including points, in situ or just use the track markings to locate units made separately?

The position of the base-board joint in the bottom photo looks slightly challenging.in terms of sleeper positioning and rail fixings. On my boards (Delph/Holt), I tried to make all the joints at right angles to the tracks, even if it resulted in boards where the ends were not straight but had angles or steps in them. That has worked well and resulted in all sleepers being one side or the other of the joint line.

Look forward to seeing further progress.

Dave.

I think I'm going to build the double-slip off the board but try to do the rest in-situ. I've deliberately put the next baseboard joint along from that picture at 90 degrees to the track but I couldn't quite manage that with this joint. I think the angle of the picture makes it look worse than it is.

David

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