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wenlock

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Now that the scenery at the rear of the layout and the backscene have been completed I've been able to make a start on the layout foreground. I decided to begin with the area immediately below the retaining wall. I built the retaining wall using Slaters Plastikard sheet as outlined in a previous blog entry http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1131/entry-16523-retaining-wall/ back in the summer of 2015. Here's a picture of the retaining wall and the baseboard surface below it.

 

Retaining wall Summer 2015
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I started by painting the baseboard surface a dark greeny black colour, more black was added towards the centre to help give an illusion of depth. I wanted to use a clear resin to simulate the water and found a suitable product at the Telford show back in September.

 

Solid water resin
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The resin was mixed together following the instructions and then poured on top of the painted surface to a depth of about 3mm. The resin takes approximately 24 hours to set, but as I was going on holiday the following morning, I left it to set for just over a week:-)

 

Upon my return the resin had indeed set as planned, but the surface was quite porous in a few areas and although reflective, it wasn't quite the appearance that I was hoping to achieve!

 

Poured resin surface.
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While I was pondering on the best way to resolve the resin surface problem I decided to add a base layer of grass to the banks either side of the pond using static grass fibres, I used a mixture of green and buff coloured fibres and increased the amount of green towards the waters edge to give a more lush appearance.

 

Static fibres on pond banks
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Once the static fibres were set in position I went back to resolve the problem of the porous water! I decided the only answer was to sand the surface of the resin down until I had a smooth flat base to work on. The porosity only appeared to be in the top 1mm or so of the resin, so it was a fairly easy job to remove this using a sanding block. Once I had a smooth flat surface again I decided to try to simulate the patches of algae and weed found growing in still water. I used my airbrush to apply a translucent green in the shallows and then used an old stiff brush to flick little blobs of green paint onto the surface in a random pattern. I was rather unimpressed with the Solid Water resin, so looked around on the internet for a suitable alternative. Hobbycraft sell a clear resin used for making paper weights and embedding decorative items. http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/crystal-resin-150ml/607011-1000 I decided to give it a go and once again following the instructions mixed up a batch of resin. This was again poured to a depth of about 3mm and left for couple of hours to thicken. Once the resin had become more viscous I used the handle of an old paintbrush to create a few subtle ripples and then left it to harden overnight. The next morning it was still tacky, but over the following 24 hours it hardened off properly with a nice shine to the surface.

 

Hobbycraft resin.
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Encouraged by this result I decided to add some reeds to either bank. I cut some pale green fibres to length and glued bunches off them onto the surface of the resin using PVA woodworking glue.

 

Fibre reeds in situ.
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Brambles and undergrowth were formed using theatrical postiche hair and assorted coloured ground foam held in position with matt acrylic aerosol varnish.

 

Brambles and undergrowth.
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I thought that some lily pads would add to the effect and tried cutting some from green painted paper. I'm afraid they weren't a great success mainly due to the fact that although the paper was green on top, once cut out the edges of each pad were white! I was pottering about in the workshop when inspiration struck! During one of the bouts of decorating that Mrs Wenlock occasionally insists on, I needed to mask some paint and had used a product called Frog tape.

 

Frog tape.
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Now as I'm sure you've noticed Frog tape is not only self adhesive, it's a rather fetching lily pad green:-)

 

Armed with a paper punch I set about the tape and produced a series of holes into its length.

 

Frog tape after hole punching!
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The circles of tape that had been punched out were stuck onto a pice of silicone sheet and then a scalpel was used to cut out a narrow triangular section out of each pice of tape.

 

Punched out pieces of Frog tape.
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Lily pad after triangular slice has been removed.
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Individual lily pads were then peeled of the silicone sheet and pressed onto the resin surface.

 

Lily pads in position.
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I also wanted to have a representation of the duck weed that seems to appear on still water. I painted areas along the retaining wall and around the reeds with Humbrol Enamel gloss varnish and then sprinkled a very fine ground foam onto the wet surface. Once this had dried any excess scatter was vacuumed up leaving a fine dusting on the resin.

 

I'd previously bought some white metal ducks, so after a bit of research into exactly what livery ducks wear I had an enjoyable hour or so duck painting:-)

 

Once dry the ducks were glued in position fulfilling an ambition that although my layout is firmly Great Western, I can say that Mallard appears on the layout!

 

I'll finish off with a few pictures of the finished article starting with an overall view of the layout.

 

Overall view.
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I'm rather pleased with the reflections of my 517 in the limpid and tranquil waters of Sherton Abbas!

 

517 and reflections.
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Until next time.

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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Dave,

The whole looks really effective.  I particularly like the families of green Pacmen, sorry i mean lily pads :-)

 

Seriously though, fantastic!

 

Ian 

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Great work, do you think that product would work for moving water too ?

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Excellent work as ever, Dave. This layout just gets better and better.

 

David

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Dave,

The whole looks really effective.  I particularly like the families of green Pacmen, sorry i mean lily pads :-)

 

Seriously though, fantastic!

 

Ian 

Thanks Ian, lets hope Blinky, Pinky, Inky and Clyde don't turn up and clear the pond! :-)

 

 

Great work, do you think that product would work for moving water too ?

Thanks Robin!  The resin seems to be workable for at least a couple of hours after pouring, it then starts to become "stringy" and tacky.  I think if you made a rippled undulating substructure out of plaster and then built up the resin in layers you could get a very effective result.  The instructions say not to pour in layers thicker than 5mm, but apart from that I reckon anything goes!

 

 

Excellent work as ever, Dave. This layout just gets better and better.

 

David

Thanks David, glad you're still enjoying the blog :-)

 

 

Really, REALLY, nice work. I am in awe. :)

Thanks MM, glad you like it! :-)

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Dave,

 

Marvelous work mate, absolutely cracking. 

 

It looks very realistic, a bench mark for others to aim for.

 

Kind regards,

 

Nick.

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I do like the idea of a 'reflecting pool' in the foreground.  It makes for super photos too.

 

Very nice modelling and thank you for sharing all the details of how you did it.

 

Mike

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Dave,

 

Marvelous work mate, absolutely cracking. 

 

It looks very realistic, a bench mark for others to aim for.

 

Kind regards,

 

Nick.

Thanks Nick!  It was touch and go with the first lot of resin, but glad you think it turned out ok in the end :-)

 

 

I do like the idea of a 'reflecting pool' in the foreground.  It makes for super photos too.

 

Very nice modelling and thank you for sharing all the details of how you did it.

 

Mike

Thanks Mike! Pleased you like it :-)

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A marvellous result in a very critical area of the layout. Those cheeful green lily pads on the red silicone sheet brought a smile to my face! 

 

Studying the photos I noticed how the brambles and undergrowth, inconspicious as they may seem, play and important role in drawing together the water, grass and embankment in visual terms, and in a very light and airy way. These transitions between textures seem important in modelling, and you are very good at them.

 

The 517 reflected in the water is wonderful. The slightly hazy quality of the picture only adds to the atmosphere and realism. I can't imagine what the results will be once the work is done and you really get into the layout photography!

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Wow ! This layout will be up there amongst the best in the UK when completed.

 

Best wishes,

 

Martyn.

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A marvellous result in a very critical area of the layout. Those cheeful green lily pads on the red silicone sheet brought a smile to my face! 

 

Studying the photos I noticed how the brambles and undergrowth, inconspicious as they may seem, play and important role in drawing together the water, grass and embankment in visual terms, and in a very light and airy way. These transitions between textures seem important in modelling, and you are very good at them.

 

The 517 reflected in the water is wonderful. The slightly hazy quality of the picture only adds to the atmosphere and realism. I can't imagine what the results will be once the work is done and you really get into the layout photography!

 

Thanks Mikkel, glad the pacmen/lily pads made you smile :-) I was really disappointed by the reflections in the original porous varnish and was very relieved when the second pouring set and was still glossy!

 

I take most of my layout pictures using an iPad which gives the slightly hazy quality you mention, or on my phone which is sharper, but has a fairly poor depth of field in close up. I really ought to buy a decent camera, but need to spend some time researching what's available. Your pictures of Farthing have a lovely clarity to them which I sure is down to clever lighting and your skill with a camera, but I'd love a few pointers as to what type of equipment you use :-)

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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Wow ! This layout will be up there amongst the best in the UK when completed.

 

Best wishes,

 

Martyn.

 

Thanks Martyn! I just hope the finished article lives up to your expectation :-)

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 I really ought to buy a decent camera, but need to spend some time researching what's available.....................

Jumping in on your reply to Mikkel: I use several cameras but find small-sensor cameras and phones are very good for photographing models.  Their small size lets you get in close, while the small-sensor provides much more depth of field than larger cameras. There's more info in my blog.  Lighting is a key factor but your model looks to be well-lit anyway.

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Jumping in on your reply to Mikkel: I use several cameras but find small-sensor cameras and phones are very good for photographing models.  Their small size lets you get in close, while the small-sensor provides much more depth of field than larger cameras. There's more info in my blog.  Lighting is a key factor but your model looks to be well-lit anyway.

 

Thanks Mike, I'd forgotten about your blog entry which I've just re-read. All really useful information, I hadn't made the connection between sensor size and depth of field. Inspired by the results of your Leica compact I googled prices of similar beasties, I'm now in need of a lie down!!

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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Thanks Mike, I'd forgotten about your blog entry which I've just re-read. All really useful information, I hadn't made the connection between sensor size and depth of field. Inspired by the results of your Leica compact I googled prices of similar beasties, I'm now in need of a lie down!! Best wishes Dave

Sorry to cause unnecessary shock - Leica are usually expensive but they have a collaboration with Panasonic, which has produced cheaper ranges - look up Lumix instead :)

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Thanks Cuckoo!:-) It's just some postiche hair, matt varnish and Greenscene scatters. I think the "secret" is to tease the postiche hair into a really open loose Matt, spray it liberally with varnish and then put a light dusting of scatter on top.

 

Glad you think it's a success :-)

 

Dave

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but I'd love a few pointers as to what type of equipment you use :-) Best wishes Dave

 

It's better to follow Mike's advice. My camera choices so far have not been very good!  At the moment I use a Nikon Coolpix S7000, which I bought because I was attracted by the manual focus setting option and the macro lens. It works OK for the really close-up shots of figures that I do, but for everything else it is really poor. So I sometimes end up using my old Nikon SLR instead, but that is too big and not ideal either. 

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It's better to follow Mike's advice. My camera choices so far have not been very good!  At the moment I use a Nikon Coolpix S7000, which I bought because I was attracted by the manual focus setting option and the macro lens. It works OK for the really close-up shots of figures that I do, but for everything else it is really poor. So I sometimes end up using my old Nikon SLR instead, but that is too big and not ideal either. 

Hi Mikkel, camera choice is definitely a bit bewildering!  Leica are way over my price range, but Mike's pointer to the Panasonic Lumix range are much more affordable and some have a Leica lens.  I'm going to spend some time researching I think, hopefully Santa may be listening! :-)

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Guest Simon Dunkley

Posted

Make sure you have a shopping list of the features you are looking for.

 

I have the FZ38 "bridge" camera. (Looks like an SLR, but has a single, fixed, zoom lens.) It does all that I want and need,but the FZ40 which followed isn't so good at close-ups.

 

My iPhone 6+ takes pretty good photos: I have stood at one end of East Lynn and Nunstanton, and taken a picture with all 28' in focus.

 

Nice work on the pond.

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Make sure you have a shopping list of the features you are looking for.

I have the FZ38 "bridge" camera. (Looks like an SLR, but has a single, fixed, zoom lens.) It does all that I want and need,but the FZ40 which followed isn't so good at close-ups.

My iPhone 6+ takes pretty good photos: I have stood at one end of East Lynn and Nunstanton, and taken a picture with all 28' in focus.

Nice work on the pond.

 

Thanks Simon, I can see a fair bit of effort is going to be needed to get the camera choice right. 28 feet is a very impressive depth of field, those people at Apple do seem to have a knack of getting stuff right. I wonder if the camera in the iPhone is better than the one in my iPad mini?

 

Dave

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