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HONLEY TANK:- The Machine Tools Still Work!


Dave at Honley Tank

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Hello again,

 

Some juggling of domestic duties has led to my being able to find a regular weekly time spot for the workshop. Its a three hour break but, for useful modelling time it works out at perhaps 21/2 hours - remembering where you were when you finished last week, and tidying the bench at closure pinches valuable time.

 

However, recently both the Boley lathe and the Myford have had their bearings warmed up! I have been in wheel-turning mode in the last few sessions,

 

The Lima wheels of the Class101/2 DMU are all brass and, after a good dose of looking at, I decided that they could be skimmed to S4 thickness and I could then re-profile the tyres to Manchester (i,e. Sid Stubbs) profile.

 

The un-insulated wheels are a good, firm fit on the knurled Lima axles and these I was able to skim while still on their original axle. However the profile tool involves forces above those that this method of holding could withstand and I was forced to make a special holding tool for this part of the whole process.

 

After all the experimentation I ended up using the Boley and its step chuck to hold the wheel on its tyre for the skimming to <2mm thickness, and then to the Myford with the new holding tool for re-profiling the wheel flange. By now, I had discovered that the Lima wheel diameter was about 1mm less than the Gibson wagon wheels that I had intended to use as the insulated wheel -
( Lima use the 'American' system of pick-up on this model).

 

This meant that I had to modify the insulted wheels too - i.e. twice as many wheels to machine than I originally thought!

 

I've taken a few pictures along the way but as yet I've only processed these into my computer files, so perhaps a few more next time -:
blogentry-1295-0-03211900-1479838634.jpg
Here is the chucked wheel-holding tool. The orange marks indicate the section which should be under number 1 jaw of my three-jaw chuck. The clamping nut is made from the same MS rod as the main body and has flats at one end to suit a 2BA spanner. The screwed section is 8BA, mainly because 2.5 mm diameter will nicely accept an 8BA die and the wheel is made a tight, slide fit on plain 2.5mm silver steel. In short the tool is only two bits of 1/2" MS rod, both drilled through 2.5mm and tapped 8BA at their outer ends, the clamping nut having its inner-end inside diameter opened to 3mm for about 5mm. The threaded rod is 2.5mm silver steel, screwed and 'Loctited' into the main body.

 

blogentry-1295-0-44506300-1479838648.jpg
Sorry; could not get this without flash, which has produced a poor pic. It's supposed to show the wheel fitted with a tufnol bush which has just been drilled through on centre. The length that this bush protrudes on the wheel's inner side is later to be faced down to a length (0.080" if memory serves!) which minimises side-play of the axle so as not to allow the gears to un-mesh.

 

blogentry-1295-0-99543100-1479838658_thumb.jpg
a completed axle ready to slot into the Lima motorised bogie.

 

blogentry-1295-0-75222400-1479838669.jpg
And here it sits in the bogie ready meshed with the bogie's gearing system.

 

That's all for now; TTFN

 

Good modelling to you,
Dave

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Dave,

Good to see you're finding modelling opportunities. You could make a little more time available by not clearing stuff away. After all, it's not cluttering up the house. Obviously, you're a tidier modeller than I am!

An interesting approach to your Lima mechanism wheels, although I'm not too keen on the appearance of brass wheels (the tread remaining bare metal). How does it do for keeping clean/collecting dirt?

Dave.

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Hi Dave,

" Obviously, you're a tidier modeller than I am!"

 

If you went in the workshop right now you would not say that!; I can barely move.

However I do tend towards returning tools, stock, materials etc to their normal storage places. If I don't I won't find 'em next visit!!

 

Brass wheels:

It's about twenty years or more since I made the first set and those were left plain brass at the tyre. I can't say that I notice the colour of the tyres when running and I don't remember any averse comments from others. Since those early days, most have been nickel plated which gives a closer impresion of steel; this may also improve electrical pick-up, but it is not a pleasant process; nasty chemicals and fumes - would only do it outside!.'Shan't do it for the Lima.

 

For my own thoughts, diesel wheels are so small and fairly well hidden inside a bogie, the chance of noticing the trye colour is virtually negligable. Certainly I have dificulty getting all wheels on the track 'coss I can't see 'em!

 

We went through real (Delf-- Oops!)  Delph last week - how's the model going?

 

Dave

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Slowly! The only real progress recently has been the hand embossing of all the cobble stoned area in the goods yard and the coal drops - a very laborious and time consuming process. Now I'm pondering how best to paint them. From my recollection. cobbles in the NW were a sort of buff greyish brown colour, quite light coloured when dry.

If you have such elements on your layouts, I'd be happy to hear how you coloured them.

Otherwise, I've been ploughing on with more locos

Dave.

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Cobbles,

The cobbles on Birch Vale were originally a purchased product in embossed card and pre-coloured; - make unknown, but I was never happy that they looked prototypical to the area.

When I started on the scenery of Bowton's Yard' (I might finish the scenery one day!) I made a rubber casting of a section of hand embossed plaster. Unfortunately I used air-drying latex. This is an easy process; - simply paint the master with release agent (fairy liquid works) and then paint all over with the latex. Allow to dry between  about 5-6 coats and you get a reasonable but frail mold. I managed about twenty casts from the one mold, certainly enough for both layouts, but now it has degraded and is no longer usable. I would make the mold in the air setting rubber used for white metal casting if I were to repeat.

The idea of using plaster (plaster cast type not decorating type) was to over come the problem of joints in the cast slabs- I left a 'cobble-width' space between slabs, filled those in and hand-embossed the filler when it dried.

The other reason for using plaster was the final colouring.

You've got the colour description right; I'd say "mucky buff";- its mainly local sandstone I think.

I flooded my cast plaster with a watery black mix and when dry, one or more coats of matt varnish, which dependent on make, will dry a bit brownish; if not add a touch of buff paint to the varnish. The black highlights the cobble joints.

Good luck with it.

Dave

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When I was converting Lima diesels to P4 (all of 20+ years ago!) I turned the Lima brass wheels down and fitted Alan Gibson coach wheel tyres, removing the excess material from the wheel back up to the tyre rim and refitted them on the original Lima axles.  I found that only a thin spacer (20 thou?) was needed to maintain meshing.  On the gear fitted wheel a bit more care was necessary as the 'sprocket' is fitted right up to the back of the wheel - in fact, it may be moulded as part of the insulation, I can't remember now!

 

Paul

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