Paddy802's Blog

Hi Paddy, that`s a nice layout you have there. Your attempt at atmospheric pictures looks fine to me.

My layout is at a similar stage, trying to make buildings and generally putting more bits and pieces around the site to give it more detail. You`ve certainly managed a lot of detail in yours.

Great layout Paddy, I'm following for more info. I'm intrigued by your ballasting method using grout, any more details ?

 

Regards

Tom

Thanks for the positive messages, I think I'm at the stage that is most enjoyable as a modeller now, to be honest its all been enjoyable, bar the tiling of roofs!!!!

I've picked up a lot of skills with this layout that mean I'd be more confident and probably save a lot more money when the time comes round to building another layout.

Great layout Paddy, I'm following for more info. I'm intrigued by your ballasting method using grout, any more details ? Regards Tom

 

Hi Tom

I was looking up methods for ballasting on google and found an image which blew me away, so I followed the link :

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/26947

I varied my method slightly, I still used Mosaic dark grey tile grout (There is even an excellent concrete colour which I also bought for possible future uses). As I'd already started ballasting the traditional way with fine black cinder ballast which is found in most model shops, I wanted to maintain consistency, so I still went ahead and ballasted in fact covered any area that was to be ash and cinders with the 'woodland scenics' fine cinder ballast. I then drenched it with Surgical spirits that I'd put in a fine mist spray bottle, I got both the bottles and the surgical spirit from Sainsburys pharmacy section (Top tip when asked why you need 3 bottles of surgical spirit by the pharmacy staff, do not say for cheap drinking like I did.. oops). I then secured the ballast with the old 1/4 PVA to 3/4 water mix (roughly) and a drop of washing up liquid method. I also found that keeping the surgical spirit at hand meant that if I had any glue mix that wasn't sinking into the ballast a quick blast from the surgical spirit helped the ballast to absorb it. I then left it over night till dry.

When it came to using the grout I put the grout on dry (in powder form) you don't need a lot and a teaspoon was used for this, along with an old paint brush to spread it about, once I'd got an even spread I then used a larger spray bottle of nothing but water to drench the grout. I will say make sure that all areas which you don't want grouted are clear before this stage (a slightly damp brush is good for this) and also keep a good distance away from the grout with the water spray as if to close the pressure blows it every where, whilst still damp I pushed an old truck with quite big flanges along the track I'd just grouted.

The grout drys really quickly so within a few hours I was hoovering up loose bits and cleaning the track, I obviously kept all turn out ties free of ballast and grout so they could still move.

I had two practice goes on two lengths of spare track, one method being the above and the second being that I mixed the grout first in a bucket and splodge it on before spreading it about, the second method would be good for concrete, compressed and hard standing but it had a bit of a shine to it that I didn't like, but I'm sure sanding would rectify this, I didn't fancy sanding 7 feet of base board though (The hoover filters couldn't take it).

I bought the grout from the same dealer as mentioned in the link :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mosaic-Tile-Grout-for-professionals-Flexible-Anti-mould-External-use-/262184851327?var=&hash=item3d0b6f577f:m:mB-wgBMUYiUUfxT5hIniu9A

I still had enough grout left to fix a few tiles in the bathroom as well.

I will also say that nearly every rail forum discussion (especially the American ones) I read about using grout said avoid this method, but I found it was both quick and easy and a little bit of tidying up round the point work isn't really the end of the world.

 

Hope this helped. Cheers Paddy