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3-Plank Open Wagon-Part 2


Tricky

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Right, after the first attempt at making the hinges to go at the bottom of the door, I had to abandon this first effort and start again in the other side...! Best laid plans and all that. The first side will be glued back in place. Basically to spare you all the sad details, I tried to make the hinges from very thin-walled brass tube with bits of wire soldered to them; so far so good. Then I foolishly thought I could drill holes at an angle into the sides and glue them in. Where this excellent theory fell down was not being able to drill consistently and also once I had actually managed to sort-of fix them in, they didn't protrude out enough which would have meant the door wouldn't drop! Fundamental to the plan really.
So, I started again on the second side and made a few alterations as follows: I didn't cut off quite as much detail from the side once it was separated from the rest of the body. I drilled very carefully directly into the bottom edge of the side, as this photo.
blogentry-31608-0-43345900-1499976074_thumb.jpg

 


Next, I soldered 4 'prongs' to the side of thicker-walled tubing. These prongs fit into the holes and mean that they hopefully stand out far enough to allow the door to drop.
blogentry-31608-0-25765500-1499976256_thumb.jpg

 

This last photo isn't particularly clear but is meant to show one of the prongs tried in a hole to see if it fits. It does, and I think protrudes forward enough, although the bottom rail on the wagon will need to be cut away to clear the prong. blogentry-31608-0-02160400-1499976632_thumb.jpg

 

Until next time, when all being well, I will have the door working, and can commence other detailing bits and bobs...

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  • RMweb Gold

You win some you lose some. The new method looks effective, but could you enlighten my confused mind please: Where will the tube be fitted? Along the solebar? 

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Ah yes... to clarify, the tube will be cut into sections the width of the hinge knuckle. The photo shows the prongs fitted to a length of tube for convenience of soldering. Once chopped up, the individual prongs of the knuckles will be glued into the holes in the solebar. The pin of each hinge will be formed by two short pieces of rod bent at right angles; one end locating in the knuckle, the other into a hole in the face of the solebar, as per the prototype. Not a fiddle at all...!!

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for clarifying, sounds fiddly but I'm sure it will be worth it.

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