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LNWR Coal Engine - stage 1 chassis



For those who may have been missing a shot of my coupling rods, here's another set, this time for a Coal Engine from the LRM kit that's underway:




Both sets are shown mounted on my chassis jig. They matched and fitted first time. Result, or so I thought?




The guard irons on some LRM kits are designed to attach to the bodywork rather than the chassis. I guess this helps get them the correct width for OO modellers but as I model in P4, less of a problem for me. The problem I found on my DX build was that the front brakes fouled against them and I could not refit the chassis once they were on. I tried various fettling and bending to remedy this but eventually they snapped off on the DX. They do help position and strengthen the front buffer beam so, rather than attach them to the frames, I cut them in half. One half is attached to the running plate as per instructions but the remainder I have attached to the frames. I may live to regret this but, as I use the old style wooden brake blocks, this should leave room to fit them. You can just see the join here.




As can be seen, I cut through to make the cutouts for the horn guides but left them in temporarily with a top hat bush to help align the frames on my jig to aid getting things all square. More about this later.


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Hi Mikkel


Thanks for the comment.


No the chassis jig is from Hobby Holidays.  Geoff Holt used one in his books on Locomotive Modelling which is where I got the idea.


The problem with this kit, as I alluded to, is that having got the rods set up on the jig, when I put the frames on the jig the holes for the axles did not line up.  I think the wheelbase on the frames is slightly out though I might have altered it when pre-cutting through the cutouts.  It's not a problem for me because in P4 I am replacing the leading two holes with High Level horn guides but on a fixed chassis in OO it might cause problems.


Anyway, I have now soldered the spacers in (using the jig having realigned it) added a motor mount spacer and next step is to fit the horn guides using the jig.  Will post that next

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