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Kaydees in the UK

Firecracker

Entry posted by Firecracker

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Right. Having returned to the hobby(blame a younger cousin, it’s all his fault), I’ve started a layout topic (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/135595-sedbergh-as-a-preserved-railway/) and here’s some of the other adventures that didn’t fit in there.

 

So, my methods of fitting kaydees to UK wagons (note, these are not the ‘correct’ methods, they just work for me. Couplings I think are one of those things (like religion or CAD/CAM software) where everyone’s got their own and periodically start trying to convert the heathen to their cause. Me - I like kaydees. They’re easy to fit, reliable if fitted correctly, readily available, if bought in bulk not too dear and the uncouplers can be hidden under the track. I tend to assemble them using EMA plastic weld, applied VERY CAREFULLY with a fine brush.

 

First up - the Bachman efforts where there is an NEM pocket, it’s just at the wrong height. To me the easiest way is to remove the coupling, pocket and the sides of that bizarre dovetail mounting and file flush with the bottom of the buffer beam (1) (sometimes the moulded drawhook will also foul the coupler, so on these 16 tonners that’s got to come off as well). Then add a no5 kaydee (due to the current layout being near-as-damn it straight, I set the couplers in as far as possible. If you’ve got real curves, you’ll need to pull them out a bit). Rule of thumb - look across the buffer heads and try to get the inner face in line with the heads. Also make sure the coupling is on the centre line of the chassis. Check it against the height gauge and job done!(2). Old Bachman with the screw mount - remove the coupling and all the mounting (3) then fit as above.

 

Kitbuilt - I’ve recently recovered these 12t vans built from parkside’s offerings, they were built for a shunting puzzle layout (‘United Marine and Locomotive’) built as a bet to fit in uni accommodation and set somewhere in the industrial NE (or possibly South Wales). Anyway, it’s off with the tension locks, add styrene packing material (~30-40 thou) or until level with the buffer beam, then add a no 5 again! (4). If the frame detail is level with the buffer beam, as on this 13t open, you don’t even have to bother with the packing. (5)

 

Anyway, just a few thoughts. As I get to them I’ll show others, such as the Dapol/airfix mountings and the oddball stuff (Kit built Shark from a Cambrian kit, anyone?)

 

Owain
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3 Comments

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JCClark

Hi Owain

Like you, I think Kadee couplings are great.

Having a problem at the moment trying to get a Bachmann class 47 coupling to the correct height, wondered if you had any thoughts on this? Inserting a Kadee number 19 and offering up the coupling to the Kadee gauge shows the knuckle needs to sit a little higher.

John

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  • RMweb Gold
Firecracker
  • RMweb Gold

Never had a Bachman class 47, I’m a Heljan man. Have you tried stuffing a shim of microstrip (say 5 thou thick, ~1/8” long into the pocket under the coupling? I’ve had this on Bachman 08’s and their wagons, the shim usually cure this droop. Also (having never seen one of their 47’s) can’t say if this is the case, but check that where the pocket pushes into that vertical dovetail dodad that it’s all the way home.

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JCClark

Thanks Owain - will try it.

Must admit, like you, I reckon the Heljan 47 is a better looking model.

John

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