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Peckett W4 No. 883. Step 1.

Mick Bonwick

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In much the same way as D3721 was started, the loco is upside down in a foam cradle and has been airbrushed with Railmatch Sleeper Grime, the enamel version. The wheels were rotated 1/4 turn after each light spray so that there were no shadow areas behind wheels or motion. This process also helps the pickup wipers to clear the wet paint from the rear of the wheels if any strays that far.

 

The airbrush in use this time is an Iwata HP-SB Plus, one of my two favourites, which allows me to be quite accurate with the small quantities I'll be wanting to apply to this small loco. You can just see (I hope) that the paint has reached the chassis area but not strayed into the bodyside panels.

 

I haven't knocked anything off yet!

 

 

 

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Hi Mick, can you just clarify at what stage you give the wheel treads and backs of flanges a good clean, to remove all paint residue, please?

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Right at the end of the weathering process, when everything is finished and all the paint and powders are hard and settled. That way you can turn the model upside down to work on it and not worry about things being rubbed off or spoilt.

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Hello Mick, been re reading this thread and I was wondering, do you know if turning the loco wheels using a battery would work on a DCC fitted loco?

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Hello Mick, been re reading this thread and I was wondering, do you know if turning the loco wheels using a battery would work on a DCC fitted loco?

 

Hello Steve,

 

Only if the decoder has been set to run on DC. You'd need to check the decoder settings to determine whether anything needs to be changed. If I'm working on a DCC locomotive I'll usually set up a DCC handset to work a rolling road and place the loco on that. Mind you don't clog up the ball bearings with paint, though?

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