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A Dunalastair 1 part 4


Dave John

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Getting the boiler and footplate fitted together was a time consuming task. Try, file a bit, try again, file a bit more. When in place I could make the spectacle plate and get the whole thing looking a bit like a D1.

So here it is actually sitting on the track. Also seems to pass the push along through points and curves without the wheels fouling the body test. In theory that means the Gibson wheels will be fine.

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From the rear with the motor and gearbox in for a trial fit. There is room for some weight above and to the sides of the motor which I think will be needed. The centre of gravity is ahead of the leading driver due to the boiler and it wants to come back to between the drivers.

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Ok, this is the backhead from the kit, together with the wheel and worm drive cover. Hmm.

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A bit of help from the silhouette produced a styrene laminated one which is pretty close to the drawing and can be detailed reasonably easily. Also it can go in after the rest is painted.
 

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Since I have slimmed the width down to about scale size the DJH roof is now too big. It is too thick as well, so I thought it was simpler just to solder one up from bits of brass.

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Should be a fair bit of free time next week so things should get progressed at a better rate. Happy new year to all and I hope your modelling goes well in 2019.

Edited by Dave John

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That's a neat way of making the backhead detachable, must remember that.

 

The yellow primer is very distracting, I keep thinking you've introduced HR running rights :-) 

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Heh , it does look rather like  a flying banana Mikkel. The stuff does show up faults well and it is easy to mark with a pencil. 

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How did you make up the roof? was it curved bits of brass strip or were you able to bend them as you went along?

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Hi Blandford. I cut curved brass strip using a pair compasses with a  sharpened point replacing the lead . The roof was curved by rolling with a bar and a soft cloth, then tie wrapped to a jar that was conveniently the right diameter. ( beetroot I think ) . The 3 bits of curved brass were then soldered on and when removed from the jar cut to length so the side strips could be attached. Technically the roof supports should be L section, but thats a bit too fiddly for me . 

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5 hours ago, Dave John said:

Hi Blandford. I cut curved brass strip using a pair compasses with a  sharpened point replacing the lead . The roof was curved by rolling with a bar and a soft cloth, then tie wrapped to a jar that was conveniently the right diameter. ( beetroot I think ) . The 3 bits of curved brass were then soldered on and when removed from the jar cut to length so the side strips could be attached. Technically the roof supports should be L section, but thats a bit too fiddly for me . 

Thanks, that's a really useful tip. 

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