Hachette coach mods - silk purse from sow's ear?
Well I ran out of cash for all those juicy Bachmann Mk.1s I need for my 1961 period express / through services, and so turned to that cheaper knock-off the Hachette Mk1 SK which has some resemblance to the Bachmann Mk1 .... to see if with a little work (which cost me nothing but time which being retired I should have lots of. but somehow don't really) I could make something approaching the quality of a Bachmann Mk.1
BTW - why use the Hachette rather than Hornby? because I want the close coupling mechanism, which has been kept in the Hachette
Since every layout in the BR mk1 period needs loads of SKs, a Hachette coach is a reasonable substitute if you can cope with the chunky prism effect of the windows, the solid under frame detail, the moulded roof detail and handrails and the plastic axles in the bogies.
Some of these things are not to hard to deal with - for instance, the solid under frame can be cut about to give daylight. The wheels can be replaced. The roof detail can be detailed with replacement vents and wire pipes.
What if you want to turn it into a different coach altogether - like me, finding that I've run out of money for the CKs I need for my maroon Pines Express rake (not finding a Bachmann CK on eBay for less than £25, i need two, and one needs to have Commonwealth bogies etc)? Well, i thought I'd give it a go having got quite a few Hachettes to play with.
So for my first CK, I had bought very cheaply an early Triang CK, happened to be in green 'completely knocked down' and I'm having a go at putting the sides and the interior into a Hachette SK, and transferring the Hachette's windows once I've painted and lined the sides.
It isn't that hard, a bit slow, but will save me at least £20 which for me is worthwhile. However, you discover those minute differences between Mk.1s by different manufacturers, like the window sizes, (Triang / Hornby almost 0.5mm bigger all round), side length (Hachette at least 1mm longer) and side height (Triang / Hornby slightly lower) and possibly the side profile (Triang / Hornby could be flatter) .....
So what I've done is, so far:
Hacked the under frame so daylight shows - reasonably successfully
Removed the windows from the Hachette sides I want to use in the CK sides
Removed the window bars from the Triang CK sides
Removed the lining guidelines from the CK sides
Thinned the ledge at the bottom of the sides to fit into the Hachette chassis slots for the sides
Added microstrip to the inside of the CK window openings as they are slightly bigger than the Hachette windows
Cut off the SK positioned vents in the roof and drilled holes in the CK positions to take new white metal vents
Carved off the SK style water pipe detail and rain strips
Also had to add microstrip to the ends of the CK sides as they are fractionally shorter than the Hachette sides
Still to do:
Make and stick on a wide strip with slots pointing in at the top of each side to mimic the strip on the Hachette sides that the roof locks into
Rub down sides
Restore some lost hinge detail on sides
Paint and line (Maroon), add numbers
Glaze with Hachette windows plus some kit master windows for the corridor side narrow (2ft) ones
Add grab handles and door handles
Fix roof vents
Add rain strips in correct location for CK
Add toilet tank fillers
Detail interior (more about that later)
Assemble
Make and fix tank filler pipework
Do something about those wheels which don't run that well in the cheapo plastic bogies (I've crudely cut and filed them to take P4 wheels)
See if it will run (!)
Some photos of the sides sitting in the chassis before I attached all that microstrip with original roof ...
Corridor side, some blurry Hachette originals in the background
Compartment side
We'll see if its worth while in a bit
- 5
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