I find it much easier to paint coach sides "in the flat" rather than when the coach is fully assembled. This is obviously impossible with etched brass kits, soldering painted sides would be a challenge, however with plastic kits it's not a problem. The Slater's sides come in two halves which have to be joined, fortunately the Guard's ducket helps hide any join line. I think it looks more realistic if coaches have a few windows open, so micro strip was used to represent the top of the droplights in the doors.
Sides joined and droplight height adjusted
The sides were then painted with gloss Phoenix Precision GWR coach cream https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/, using my airbush. I used gloss paint, which once dry gives a hard smooth surface to apply the lining to. Unfortunately the paint has dried with an "orange peel" finish, which hopefully won't be too apparent after a coat of satin varnish has been applied, once the coach is completed!
Once the cream paint had dried for a couple of days, low tack masking tape https://www.amazon.co.uk/FrogTape-Painters-Masking-Multisurface-41-1m/dp/B004QXKFBQ/ref=asc_df_B004QXKFBQ/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=223237768057&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6166215919130271044&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045352&hvtargid=pla-357994525169&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 was applied on top of the raised panel beading.
Masking tape in position
Phoenix Precision GWR coach brown was then applied to the sides, once again using my airbrush. The join between the cream and brown paint occurs on the raised moulding, which will be painted black later, so consequently doesn't need to be perfectly straight
The bolections and droplights were then brush painted using Phoenix Precision Indian Red.
The raised panel moulding was then painted black using a fine tipped brush, fortunately the junction between the black and the body colour will be hidden by the lining.
Black panel moulding
The next stage of the process is to apply the lining and for this I use a Bob Moore lining pen. https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/lining-and-sundries/moore The pen comprises of a handle, paint reservoir and fine needle like tubes of assorted diameters. I've got the Craftsman Plus set, which includes 3 different heads, one each of 0.008” Fine, 0.012”Standard & 0.020” Standard Plus Heads
I've found that In order to get a successful result using these pens two things must be right. The paint consistency must be correct, so that it flows properly and the pen must be held at the right angle. A bit of practice is useful on a scrap of plasticard and is useful to check that the paint is flowing adequately before applying it to the model!
Bob Moore lining pen
I start the lining by going around each of the cream panels with brown paint using the "Standard Plus Head" giving a line about 0.5 mm wide.
Once the brown lining is dry, I go around each panel again but this time using gold paint applied using the "Standard Head" which gives a line about 0.3 mm wide. This means that each cream panel is edged in a 0.3 mm gold line, which is then edged with a 0.2 mm brown line.
The brown panels are simply lined with gold paint using the "Standard Head" giving a 0.3 mm line.
Gold Lining applied
Lettering & Numbering
The sides now need the application of some clear satin varnish to protect the transfers and to tone down the high gloss finish, but I'll probably do this once the coach has been further assembled onto it's under frame and ends which will have to wait until the next bog entry
All in all a rather long winded process which makes the advent of Slater's pre-printed sides look very attractive, although there is some satisfaction in having a go yourself!
Until next time ......