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Quick and.....um.....Dirty Weathering


westernviscount

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Hi Folks. I thought I would share the results of some recent weathering I did on some kit built vans. The vans have mostly sat around since completion to ex-works condition. I see myself as an all round modeller however the flurry of activity at the beginning stages of a kit and the plodding, drawn out approach I have towards the end stages shows where my enthusiasm mostly lies. In short I love building a kit, kind of enjoy painting it  and often dread weathering. 

 

Part of the dread of weathering may be in *that I feel I have all the requisite skill, space and tools I need to knock together a kit but I lose confidence in my skill levels when it comes to weathering and lack what I see as essential tools. Weathering is of course an area that demands confidence. Also, I demand that a job is done correctly and without an airbrush I have convinced myself I will not be satisfied with the end result and be confident the end result will remain as i intended after handling the model! 

 

But, I think I have made peace with the fact I will not own and be able to use an airbrush for a number of years but am not willing to have pristine models ruin the effect I am aiming for. So, the models below are completed as you can tell without an airbrush, instead I use Humbrol smoke pigment, a couple of rust and brakedust pigments by carr's and humbrol decalfix. Also a white pencil for handwritten legends. 

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Prior to beginning, these vans have had a coat of humbrol acrylic matt spray from a rattle can. I use this to eliminate the high gloss varnish I hand brushed on prior to the decals going on.

 

I start by having a small amount of decalfix on one side of a dish and smoke pigment on the other. I pick up a decent amount of the decalfix and mix in a little pigment. The solution is used as an enamel wash would be used and behaves in a similar way, running into grooves and around raised detail. more pigment is added to create a darker tone in corners particularly top corners and around the bottom of the van sides. 

 

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The metal corner plates of the van is treated with a tiny amount of decalfix and a clump of rust pigment. The clumps allow for the appearance of thinker rust patches. 

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I experimented with doing the hand written shunters messages before the weathering process but the decalfix removed most of it. Of course old messages would be removed by hand or through weathering so no great loss!

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A word of caution about the process. The decalfix runs neatly and evenly around matt surfaces but pools and is repelled by gloss surfaces such as ready to run models and high gloss models. This is evident in the the white vertical bands on the shocvan which show areas of pooling. The beauty of decalfix and pigment weathering is that although drying and sealing the weathering, water will reactivate it! 

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The underframe is dealt with by applying a brake dust pigment and decalfix solution like a wash. Then areas of build up are treated separately and rust pigment dusted over where appropriate. The dusting will hopefully be sealed by the still wet decalfix but if not, the wagon will usually be handled by the body only so noy a problem really. I think what helps this technique is that I paint the underframes in dark grey as opposed to black. I mix humbrol 32 and 33 to make a very dark grey usually, but in the case of the fruit van I think I used pure humbrol 32 dark grey. 

 

Another note of caution would be that as a positive, the decalfix does its proper job of reducing silvering of the transfers even further BUT unless they have been sealed prior to this process they may become lose and move. Each of the wagons featured are sprayed with humbrol acrylic matt varnish from a rattle can BEFORE the process. Further protection could be added by a further coat of varnish but the effect may be deadened slightly. 

 

Its worth saying I heard of this technique from the wonderful humbrol how to vids on youtube. The guy is a scalemodeller and goes by the handle "scalemodel medic". 

 

One last warning, as I said weathering requires confidence so perhaps practise on a less valuable item first if you so wish to try this technique. 

 

Happy Modelling folks. 

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  • RMweb Gold

instead I use Humbrol smoke pigment, a couple of rust and brakedust pigments by carr's and humbrol decalfix.

 

The results are very good indeed, most impressive.

 

When you say 'pigment' are you referring to something liquid or perhaps particles suspended in a liquid, or are they what might also be referred to as 'weathering powders', please?

 

The underframe is dealt with by applying a brake dust pigment and decalfix solution like a wash. Then areas of build up are treated separately and rust pigment dusted over where appropriate. The dusting will hopefully be sealed by the still wet decalfix 

 

Again, may I request a clarification of this (and perhaps answering my first question as well) - are you dusting powders over an already wet surface, when it comes to the underframes, please?

 

Many thanks in anticipation.

 

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As a powder weatherer myself I am rather impressed by the results on these wagons.  I too am curious as to exactly which pigment is being used.  I can (and sometimes do) wet my powders with water or hairspray which turns them momentarily into liquid pigment and allows me to add streak and fade effects.  I am also aware of weathering pigments available in the US but not in the UK (they cannot be shipped by air due to their content) though these are not Humbrol.

 

I have attempted to use Humbrol weathering powders but find them coarse and gritty so the remaining stock is confined to such things as ballast and ground-cover weathering which can be done as a wash.  Carrs powders went out of business quite some time ago so far as I am aware but if stocks are still available I should like to know of the supplier as they remain among the best I have used.  

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4 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

When you say 'pigment' are you referring to something liquid or perhaps particles suspended in a liquid, or are they what might also be referred to as 'weathering powders', please?

 

3 hours ago, Gwiwer said:

 I too am curious as to exactly which pigment is being used.

 

 

Hi chaps, thank you for the comments. Apologies for confusing matters. They are simply weathering powders. I use carr's weathering powders primarily but i have found the humbrol smoke powder to be really good (a local toy shop had bought them by mistake and were selling them at £1.25!!!) 

 

I use a container like this...

20190817_203113.jpg.3902893ce6e54ded677f74ab1fe071e8.jpg

 I put a few drops of decalfix in and then some smoke powder. I like to have the powder and decal fix unmixed, the decalfix one side and the powder on the other so i can vary the opacity of the mix. I then use a brush with a nice long, sharp tip to work the mix over the entire body, letting it flow into grooves. I suppose this might be where decalfix is better than water as it behaves very much like and enamel wash does and the wetness is longer than just momentary. It seems easier to build up the opacity with this method than using enamel washes also. 

 

I must say i have had the same powders for a decade!! 

4 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Again, may I request a clarification of this (and perhaps answering my first question as well) - are you dusting powders over an already wet surface, when it comes to the underframes, please?

 

 

After the decalfix + powder mix has been washed over and built up, small areas can be added to whilst the mix is still wet and blended in. It can also be brushed over the mix when dry to further pick out detail. 

 

Decalfix can leave a satin sheen so a quick coat of matt varnish spray would correct this but it didn't happen on the shocvan. 

 

Just to remind you, this is done on a matt varnished surface. I tried it on gloss and it pooled up. 

 

Again, many thanks for the comments guys. 

Edited by westernviscount
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  • RMweb Gold

This is very impressive and useful. Thanks for the tip about the smoke powder. I like the handwritten legends too. Can I ask, is that just an ordinary white pencil from a set?

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I love the blog section of RM, so many tips to pick up. I have liked the chalk markings on detailed wagons but was unsure how to achieve it. After reading this i went up in the loft armed with a ordinary white pencil and had a go, perfect result.

Thanks for the tip.

Paul.

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36 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

This is very impressive and useful. Thanks for the tip about the smoke powder. I like the handwritten legends too. Can I ask, is that just an ordinary white pencil from a set?

Hi Mikkel,

 

Yes it is just an ordinary white pencil from a colouring set. A very cheap set at that!!!

 

Cheers

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20 minutes ago, down the sdjr said:

I love the blog section of RM, so many tips to pick up. I have liked the chalk markings on detailed wagons but was unsure how to achieve it. After reading this i went up in the loft armed with a ordinary white pencil and had a go, perfect result.

Thanks for the tip.

Paul.

 

Hi Paul,

 

I have learnt an awful lot from rmweb and am happy to have contributed in some way. I have to admit my prototype knowledge is relatively poor so was unsure what to put. I saw a photo of a van with MT on it which i assume meant mixed traffic and no longer a dedicated produce carrier. 

 

Cheer

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53 minutes ago, westernviscount said:

 

Hi Paul,

 

I have learnt an awful lot from rmweb and am happy to have contributed in some way. I have to admit my prototype knowledge is relatively poor so was unsure what to put. I saw a photo of a van with MT on it which i assume meant mixed traffic and no longer a dedicated produce carrier. 

 

Cheer

I dont know what the markings mean either im afraid, i had assumed an "x" would mean empty. I hope someone on here knows the answer.

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1 hour ago, down the sdjr said:

i had assumed an "x" would mean empty

It might just be a means of 'marking the spot!'

 

In my experience, the legends 'MT' or 'ETY' were often used to convey the meaning 'empty'. This also applied in a kind of shorthand when writing memos etc.

 

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XP = Express Passenger.  A freight-carrying vehicle authorised to be included in express passenger trains and to run at (originally) 75mph though this speed was later reduced to 55mph IIRC.  

 

MT = Empty; shorthand for not conveying anything

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

I wonder if using an Isopropyl Alcohol mix instead of Humbrol Decalfix might work too ?

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30 minutes ago, gwrrob said:

I wonder if using an Isopropyl Alcohol mix instead of Humbrol Decalfix might work too ?

 

Well Rob I have never used IPA at all so would not no. I'd always say try everything on an unloved piece of rolling stock first. I have seen IPA used to strip body shells but over a number of days. I use decalfix fix s it is designed to be used on painted surfaces and like the way it behaves, running into nooks and crannies etc. 

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On 18/08/2019 at 11:24, Captain Kernow said:

It might just be a means of 'marking the spot!'

 

In my experience, the legends 'MT' or 'ETY' were often used to convey the meaning 'empty'. This also applied in a kind of shorthand when writing memos etc.

 

'X' (sometimes wiyhin a circle), was often to be seen on condemned stock in the 1960s. Confusingly, the LMS (I think it was) used it as a marking in conjunction with restrictions over the Widened Lines.

I still use 'MT' on my time-space graph at work- French colleagues look askance until I tell them to say it aloud. Likewise 'CANX'...

Those vans are a tidy job..

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On ‎18‎/‎08‎/‎2019 at 11:46, Gwiwer said:

XP = Express Passenger.  A freight-carrying vehicle authorised to be included in express passenger trains and to run at (originally) 75mph though this speed was later reduced to 55mph IIRC.  

 

MT = Empty; shorthand for not conveying anything

 

 

 

On ‎18‎/‎08‎/‎2019 at 11:24, Captain Kernow said:

It might just be a means of 'marking the spot!'

 

In my experience, the legends 'MT' or 'ETY' were often used to convey the meaning 'empty'. This also applied in a kind of shorthand when writing memos etc.

 

 

On ‎18‎/‎08‎/‎2019 at 09:18, gwrrob said:

MT could also mean empty.;) Lovely weathering Sir.

 

Thanks for the info folks. This makes a lot of sense although I was surprised. 

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