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A rolling chassis for Blanche


Beardybloke

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Original entry: 09 October 2009

 

The two cylinders are both soldered up along with their cosmetic covers - photos will follow as soon as it's light! Managed to splash some solder on my face too whilst removing some of the excess that I'd managed to build up through trying to correct errors with an iron that I'm starting to suspect needs a new tip...

 

 

The gearbox is also about 1/3 complete, having been folded and soldered, and had the motor mounting bracket expanded to allow the motor to be screwed in to it. I also managed to cock up the gearbox by bending the mounting piece the wrong way... I blame the fact that there were half-etch lines on both sides! (Obviously, I don't blame the fact that I wasn't paying attention) This is now corrected, but it was touch-and-go that metal fatigue would cause it to fall off. The plan is to have the gearbox finished tomorrow, and a complete rolling chassis by the end of the weekend... it may be wishful thinking, especially as I'm half planning on attending the Bedford Beer Festival tomorrow biggrin.gif

 


Original entry:10 October 2009

 

Well, that was quicker than I expected! With a minimum of fuss (especially for me) and almost no panic moments, I have a free-running 2-4-0 chassis (as opposed to the 2-2-0 of this morning wink.gif ). I'm vey surprised that nothing siezed up when I was using superglue to secure the layshaft and final drive gear, as I'm pretty sure that's what killed Taliesin's power bogie... I obviously live and learn!

 

Last night, the motor mounting plate was soldered up, as can be seen in this photo of one of my trademark bodged jigs:

blogentry-6718-12551772665248.jpg

after this, the primary drive shaft was fitted, secured and trimmed - after spending about 5 minutes trying to fit a 1.5mm bearing onto a 2mm dia. shaft icon_redface.gif. The idler shaft and gear were loosely fitted, and I went to the pub satisfied.

 

Post-bacon and egg banjo this morning, I trimmed the idler shaft, and went about fitting the rear axle, which was somewhat more involved - needing to be passed through the main chassis bearing, wheel, gearbox, gear, gearbox, wheel and chassis in turn... and all in a space of 12mm or so! It must have succeeded, as the chassis now looks like this:

blogentry-6718-12551772744039_thumb.jpg

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Apologies for the fairly poor photos - I always seem to have to sharpen up bits in Irfanview as the focal depth on my camera is pretty poor. Any recommendations on how to get around this would be greatly appreciated!

7 Comments


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Looks good, Steve! It's satisfying when you get one of the Backwoods kits to run freely isn't it???

 

You'll have it finished for ExpoNG at this rate!

 

What camera do you have? If you find out your minimum focussing distance that could be the problem. If it's an SLR then you could just lengthen the exposure time and decrease the aperture size, that should cure the shallower depth of field.

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Can you post the make of the camera, might be able to help out there, it should possible to improve most. looks like no flash has been used, quite Ok, but the light level might not be enough to force the aperture to a smaller value. it may just be brighter light that is needed, and it might be a touch of camera shake as it's called, again due to too low a shutter speed being chosen by the camera due to light level. Fooling the camera a bit by resetting the ISO/ASA film speed equivalent may help, at the expense of a bit of grain, but that should not really affect technical shots, especially if sharpened in Infraview or equivalent.

Backwoods kits need a fair bit of care in assembly to get the best running, the design is often a bit "tight", but potentially they should all run fine.

Stephen.

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Tom - I doubt I'll have it finished for ExpoNG! In a running condition, possibly...

 

My camera's a fairly basic compact - a Kodak C813. I haven't had an SLR for years - the last one was an Olympus OM-10!

 

Shake's always been a bit of a problem with me, I don't seem to have the steadiest of hands - rather odd when you consider my choice of hobby! I've been considering one of these these for a while as it'd probably do reasonably for out walking as well. The camera doesn't have a means of manually setting the ISO rating or shutter speed, though it does have a number of different modes. In a pinch, would selecting what would be a fast shutter speed (i.e. a mode such as 'sport') be of any help, assuming that I can get enough light to bear on the subject?

 

Thanks for the help, chaps :)

 

 

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Replies seem problematic at the moment, attempts to post are getting squashed soemhow, and I am not getting involved with querying further problems at the moment, it will just have to wait till things settle down.

 

Finding out whether replies have been made or simply finding the latest posts is a nightmare.

 

In the meantime, the ISO can be re-set higher to help, and why not try the flash with suitable light or white background. Most compacts are quite good at close ups with a bit of attention to detail.

Stephen

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Good to see the rolling chassis and gearbox together. Take a big deep breath before starting the quartering (hate it, its always a hassle on outside framed locos), be very careful opening out the holes in the rods as they are very delicate. You also may have to unsolder and swap the front spring overlays as I found the etched groove in them needed to go the other round to how the instructions show, so beware!

 

My Linda is nearly ready for the paintshop, just got the drain cocks to add and the cab interior still to finish. May start my own blog on this site as I've got quite a production line of 009 locos on the go.

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If your camera has a sport mode give that a go, that might speed everything up and counteract the shakes ;) It will possibly up the ISO automatically to cope but not 100% on that.

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