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SE&CR E1 class

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Barry Ten

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A minor update on my E1 class - see earlier entries this summer - with the main body colour on:

 

E1.jpg.949284be901eab556679686d7d2a8673.jpg

 

Initially I sprayed the model with black, then brush painted the olive green. I've had good results with that approach in the past, finding that a good sprayed base coat can provide a basis for a very nice brush-finished top coat, but in this case it was apparent that the quality of the finish wasn't heading in the direction I wanted. Unfortunately the black had gone on with a gritty texture in places, probably because I was trying to eek out the last few squirts from the bottom of the can.

 

So, out with the stripper. Recently I've found this stuff to be excellent for this purpose:

 

dlmac22.jpg.6df7d2448fa3f051fb3999e7a7e2e2f5.jpg

 

It can be applied very easily with a cotton bud or similar and is much easier to work into fiddly areas than the thicker type of plastic-compatible stripper

I've used in the past. It also works very quickly, enabling a model to be stripped and repainted in hours rather than needing an overnight treatment. In

this case the body is metal, so (presumably) any paint stripper would have been OK, but I've used this stuff on plastic as well without problems.

 

With the main mass of paint removed, the body was immersed in an ultrasonic bath just to loosen the last few bits and then cleaned and re-primed

with Citadel Black. Once it had dried, I then airbrushed the main colour, which is Railmatch light olive. More by luck than judgement, this is the

Ashford shade of olive so correct for the SE&CR. However, honesty compels me to admit that it's just the shade I happened to have in stock.

 

The green went on well but came out too matte, which I think is due to it being over-thinned, so once I was happy with the colour density I then

sprayed a top coat of varnish on, to act as a base for the subsequent lining. Hopefully that'll be the next step.

 

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

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Looks like that strip magic is useful stuff.  Does it work on acrylics and cellulose, or just enamel type paints?

 

The loco looks great by the way!

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very nice results. I have recently been paint stripping models for the respray and in order to strip then i used Nitromors. Although it may be a bit aggressive it does get the job done well. After the Nitromors has been thoroughly rinsed i then use some cif and a soft tooth brush to degrease everything then a final rinse and leave to dry for a few days prior to using the halfords etch grey primers and then the top coats int he same way as you described.

 

I have used the nitromors and Halfords paints on a vintage gauge 3 M7 that is in for a complete respray from LSWR pea green to Br Black and also some new batteries for the Radio Control equipment.

The M7 was built in 1940 during the air raids in the anderson shelter as a means of passing the time by the builder and owner. The model now belongs to his son.

 

Looking forward to seeing more updates

M7 BLACK TRANSFERS 5.jpg

M7 BLACK TRANSFERS 6.jpg

M7 BLACK TRANSFERS 7.jpg

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1 hour ago, wenlock said:

Looks like that strip magic is useful stuff.  Does it work on acrylics and cellulose, or just enamel type paints?

 

The loco looks great by the way!

 

I'm not sure, Dave - I've certainly not found anything it won't shift yet, but I can't swear I've tried it on more than just enamels.

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1 hour ago, markneilp14 said:

very nice results. I have recently been paint stripping models for the respray and in order to strip then i used Nitromors. Although it may be a bit aggressive it does get the job done well. After the Nitromors has been thoroughly rinsed i then use some cif and a soft tooth brush to degrease everything then a final rinse and leave to dry for a few days prior to using the halfords etch grey primers and then the top coats int he same way as you described.

 

I have used the nitromors and Halfords paints on a vintage gauge 3 M7 that is in for a complete respray from LSWR pea green to Br Black and also some new batteries for the Radio Control equipment.

The M7 was built in 1940 during the air raids in the anderson shelter as a means of passing the time by the builder and owner. The model now belongs to his son.

 

Looking forward to seeing more updates

M7 BLACK TRANSFERS 5.jpg

M7 BLACK TRANSFERS 6.jpg

M7 BLACK TRANSFERS 7.jpg

 

 

What an absolutely brilliant model, and so humbling to think of the conditions under which it was put together.

 

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47 minutes ago, Barry Ten said:

 

 

What an absolutely brilliant model, and so humbling to think of the conditions under which it was put together.

 

 

The driving wheels and the trailing wheels are drilled out of solid block, no lathe work at all. And yes they are round

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