Jump to content

Liddy's Blog

  • entries
    19
  • comments
    64
  • views
    6,580

Slaters O gauge Shocvan kit

Taking note from the inspirational 'Off the Beaten track' blog I'm building an O gauge wagon kit before diving into 7mm. I chose a Slaters BR Shocvan, adding Slaters own sprung W-irons to get the best possible running. I'm painting the wheels as rusty on the backs and oily dust on the fronts.

 

IMG_20200307_095215888_BURST000_COVER.jpg.1bd136e460792e076ed73ea1bd9556e9.jpg



46 Comments


Recommended Comments



I do like Slaters kits.  I always paint my wheels first, using a grungy rust/black/earth colour of my own making.  Wheels, contrary to what many people seem to think, are not black.

 

I like to chemically blacken the metal parts.  You can use Carr's products or Gun Blue.

 

I like Slaters sprung W irons.  I have used Bill Bedford sprung W irons as well, these are from Eileen's Emporium.

 

Beware, building 0 gauge kits can be addictive.

 

John

Share this comment


Link to comment
Liddy

Posted (edited)

 

Hi John,

Thank you for your comments, I have to admit to reading your blog as part of my research before deciding to try 7mm, I really admire your work.

I did a Mick Bonwick Weathering workshop at Pendon and there was a lot of discussion about blacks!

Paul Bartlett's website is my primary reference for contemporary photos.

Carr's black for brass worked especially well on the detail castings, less well on the etches, which will need some painting.

I'm delighted with the level of detail in the Slaters kit; just a little surprised having come from 4mm (where the extensive ranges of the likes of Masokits and Rhymney Models means endless detailing parts) that there appear to be few suppliers of wagon detailing in 7mm. I'm happy to be corrected.

Best regards

 

Rusty wheels 1.jpg

Carrs black.jpg

Edited by Liddy

Share this comment


Link to comment

Glad to know my bodging has been informative for you.

 

Paul's collection has been extremely useful to me, almost always a pic of the wagon you are doing.

 

Chemical black at least puts a patina on the metal.

 

I've built a lot of 4mm wagon kits and I agree, the level of detail of 7mm kits is way over and above.  My philosophy is to build a model of the wagon, whether or not the detail can be seen when the vehicle is on the track.

 

Now that you mention it, there doesn't seem to be the same amount of detail trade support in 7mm as there is in 4mm.  Maybe it is thought that it is not needed.  You might want to have a browse of Invertrain,  https://invertrain.com/  a lot of bits and bobs there.  Also, the Bill Bedford kits at Eileens Emporium https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=1289&name=7mm-components&Itemid=189   are useful.  Funnily enough I haven't been able to find an etched Morton brake gear kit for 10' WB wagons.  Rumney has a few 7mm kits.

 

I did build the Slaters Shoc Van, but, in this case, I didn't use the sprung axleguards.

 

John

Share this comment


Link to comment

Hello John,

Thanks for those links, I had a pleasant morning browsing the traders listed by the GOG and NEWGOG show in April is on my calendar.

You can't beat a good etch for brake gear, Slaters brake pushrod safety loops and brake lever guard (with bracket to axlebox) would be a big improvement as an etch.

As you've used Slaters sprung axleguards, do you know the design weight for the springing? (I emailed Slaters last month and haven't yet had a response)

Rgds

Share this comment


Link to comment

G0G is good thing to join, I just sent in my 2020 dues yesterday.

 

Slaters do provide etched parts in some cases, but the safety loops are difficult.  Using some scrap brass strip is better.

 

Tie bars another problem area.  Plastic ones are very fragile.  Again, I think it is better to replace with brass strip.

 

As for weighting, G0G recommend 1g/mm of length.  I use this as a rule.  I haven't worried about spring weight.

 

John

  • Thanks 1

Share this comment


Link to comment

Hi Liddy,

 

Well I guess there is no hope for you now you have started to build a 7mm wagon kit :-) You have done a cracking job in weathering those wheels and axle guards.

 

I find it best to phone Slater's, or better still drop in and chat to them if you are in the area, as they don't seem to check their inbox:-)

Another source of etched detailing components is  D. Parkins https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18284 . 

 

Before I forget thanks for plugging my blog, I'm very pleased that you consider it to be inspirational.

 

Geoff

  • Thanks 1

Share this comment


Link to comment

Thanks for that Nick.  A veritable Aladdins cave of bits and bobs.  I ordered a bunch of brake and underframe details.  Excellent!  :pleasantry:

 

BTW, I noticed a number of separate axleboxes.  There are PB etched leaf springs as well.  I did try these for a David Parkins kit but failed miserably.

 

John

Share this comment


Link to comment

Hi Geoff,

Thanks for your comment, I remember on your blog that you used DJ Parkins overlays to detail a wagon interior, I thought those looked excellent, I shall study the site with interest. Your blog is always a great read as you take the time to share your thought processes as well as techniques and materials.

Hi Nick,

Thank you for replying, I took a quick look at that link at lunchtime, definitely something to follow up.

Rgds

Share this comment


Link to comment
On 07/03/2020 at 22:14, brossard said:

I do like Slaters kits.  I always paint my wheels first, using a grungy rust/black/earth colour of my own making.  Wheels, contrary to what many people seem to think, are not black.

 

I like to chemically blacken the metal parts.  You can use Carr's products or Gun Blue.

 

I like Slaters sprung W irons.  I have used Bill Bedford sprung W irons as well, these are from Eileen's Emporium.

 

Beware, building 0 gauge kits can be addictive.

 

John

 

Not having any Carr's for steel, I trialled the brass and nickel silver blackening on the Slaters wheels and found that the brass version works well on the treads.

Thanks again

Share this comment


Link to comment

I think it is all the same stuff - selenium dioxide.  Perhaps different concentrations for steel etc. but it seems to work on all the metals.

 

John

Share this comment


Link to comment

Thanks John,

The steel coupling links and coupling hook springs came out really well from the Brass formula.

 

I didn't read the instructions carefully and drilled the shorter buffer beams really well, now I have to do it again for the longer ones.

 

Phil at Hobby Holidays was great at finding and sending me the Ambis 7mm BLG3A Brake lever guides so those will be assembled soon.

 

 

Buffer beams.jpg

3-links blackened.jpg

Ambis BLG3A etch.jpg

Share this comment


Link to comment

Coming along nicely.  I recently received a pack of bits from HH.  Those lever guides, brake shoes and 10'WB brake push rods.  Also a fret containing vees and things.  These should enable me to do a great job on some wagons in the queue.

 

John

Share this comment


Link to comment

Thoughts and advice please;

The longer buffer beams don't have any coupling reinforcing plate or rivet detail. I have photos of the prototype Dia 208, but none clear enough to determine if the real thing was so plain.

Thanks in advance

Buffer beam detail.jpg

Share this comment


Link to comment

There's a close-up on Paul's site that shows the buffer beam with no rivets or reinforcing plate, just the raised ridge as on the longer buffer beam shown in your pic.

Share this comment


Link to comment

Hello Paul,

Thank you for the link. Your site as always proves to be invaluable.

Best regards

Share this comment


Link to comment
4 hours ago, hmrspaul said:

But that has an LNER style brake rigging, not the model he is making,

 

Okay. But the headstock is the same?

Share this comment


Link to comment
3 hours ago, Nickey Line said:

 

Okay. But the headstock is the same?

Very unusually. This couldn't be assumed. They are different wagons.

 

Paul

Share this comment


Link to comment
1 hour ago, hmrspaul said:

Very unusually. This couldn't be assumed. They are different wagons.

 

Well well, who'd a thought it! Thanks.

Have now studied the photos further.

Edited by Nickey Line

Share this comment


Link to comment

I've chosen to make Spring bump stops in keeping with the reference photo, I will use the 4 best ones, shown here with a cutdown axlebox/spring moulding.

 

Spring bump stops.jpg

Share this comment


Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.