Jump to content
 

Time for an update I think


KH1

555 views

I know, it has been ages since I have given an update. Now, that is not because I have been idle - it is because I have been VERY idle!

 

I am probably being a bit harsh on myself there as I have been to plenty of exhibitions but as a civilian or helping out on other peoples layouts which has been great experience. I have scaled back outings for UTL drastically and at the moment there is only one booked being for the Mid Wales show in Welshpool, 24th October this year. Hopefully things will back on track again by then and we will not have the added excitement of the floods which blighted this year, tales of which will echo for many years. I am still considering several options for my next layout venture but I would like something a bit smaller and less complicated. The trouble is all my plans seem to turn out even bigger and more complicated.

 

So this last year has been more for consolidation and getting to grips with some of the gadgets I have amassed, some of the techniques I want to develop and in tackling the elephant in my modelling room.

The London Road resistance soldering unit has been sitting there staring at me for well over a year and I have to admit to being a bit frightened of it. I eventually plucked up the courage and actually rather like it! It will never replace the traditional soldering iron (or irons actually), but for detail work it is great.

3d_6.jpg.cadfb189762d2bc30a71f195b84a3871.jpg

3d_7.jpg.6ba8cfc3943b94a1bafb8dd698c55a6a.jpg

 

A little chop saw is another addition which is great for cutting tubes and brass section cleanly but I do need to design some sort of a fence so it can be set a bit more accurately.

Another rather larger investment was a metal guillotine which I have been chasing for a few years now. After some teething problems and the addition of a not inexpensive slip gauge set I can now turn out accurate and cleanly cut pieces at a rate which far exceeds what I can do with them. This has led to me batch producing a few items with the aim of making a bit of pocket money to feed my habit.

This has led me off in another direction for the first time as well and I have now commissioned some rather nice lost wax castings for loco fittings which should accelerate progress on a slightly secret (for now), project.

3d_4.jpg.44601cc47d2892cd417170a21bfceb06.jpg3d_5.jpg.0e4782db842ee51d03370fbe3a1df9f3.jpg

 

So, all the above is for rather traditional modelling so now for that elephant - CAD. I have been wanting to get to grips with this for quite some time but all my attempts to get my head around have just ended in frustration. But, with help and encouragement from the David of Fen End Pit and the brilliantly explained adventures of Mike Oxen on this site, I have actually got somewhere this time. Admittedly I did get somewhere then got distracted by the Summer and promptly forgot everything I had learned but relearning was easier and took me further. I am now fairly confident with OnShape for 3d but am still struggling a bit with AutoCad which I intend to use for etch design.

 

It is one thing learning CAD but what am I going to do with it. The answer, of course, is to get carried away buying 3d printers. THE first indulgence was actually a CNC milling machine followed by a filament printer and closely followed by a resin printer. Logic would probably have dictated getting to know one machine before getting the next and so on but in this respect my logic failed me.

basically I have had problems with them all to some degree which if anyone out there has any understandable solutions to I would be most grateful.

3d_8.jpg.6c5d10efcf32730369e3b26b7babf022.jpg

Firstly the CNC mill. The test engravings that come with it work fine but when I use GBRL everything moves around properly but the cutting motor will not spin. I gather it is because the pins on the board that control the motor have been changed but I have yet to find a solution that I can understand to address this either physically or in the software.

 

With the Ender filament printer I have had dreadful trouble getting things to stick to the bed. I have tried a piece of glass and then spraying this with heat activated adhesive but with little success. I bought a BLTouch self levelling sensor which I fitted without difficulty but cannot get the software to install properly on the computer. I have given up on this for now as I did have a bit of a brainwave. The thread which is automatically printed presumably to clear the nozzle always sticks on the far left had side of the plate so why not move the print in the slicer software to the left hand side of the build plate? I have now actually had some success with some small items such as some little brackets to replace broken ones which hold up a shelf.

3d_1.jpg.74a6a2453faddf64969efd0e16c297a4.jpg

 

I had similar problems with the Photon resin printer and had great trouble in getting anything to stick to the build plate. This has resulted in a small army of mutant Llamas with which I tried but miserably failed to impress the now not so little Iz. I think the problem was that I was building up a bit of a sludge of failed bits that had printed but not attached so the build plate was not making proper contact with the film. Resin is pretty nasty messy stuff really. I was finally pushed into getting to grips with this by my rash promise to design and print some bobbins for some slate wagons a friend was building. Considering they are only 2mm and 4mm tall I am actually very pleased with the results and think they look great on the finished wagons.

3d_2.jpg.1b49ded3f1cfa09ee1f00101fb3e1b7d.jpg3d_3.jpg.14f014c372a3afc964c98c358e134f63.jpg3d_10.JPG.24d91f7c859dc0d87246f04d1bbcd4d9.JPG3d_11.JPG.a2108544c74b22b7e1f87fe6d89e657b.JPG

 

 

So that is the state of play at the moment - much frustration, some success and plenty of unfinished projects.

 

As an aside, one thing that I did do to try and fix the situation with the Ender was to buy a laser thermometer to check  the temperature of the nozzle and build plate. 'What are you wasting money on that for' was the wifely retort - it seems to have been forgotten now that it is in regular use to check for fever......... That red dot is also excellent for giving the lazy cats


 


 


 

  • Like 7
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2

10 Comments


Recommended Comments

Good to see you posting again and it was very nice of you to mention that my own ramblings on 3D-printing had been helpful to you.

 

I initially had problems with models not sticking to my printer bed but have had none, since applying blue painters' tape.  My print bed is unheated, as I wanted a printer that was reasonably 'grand-child safe'.  Two other factors have a large impact on adhesion - setting the nozzle clearance from the bed accurately and the filament temperature.  With the original filament I used, it was a bit too 'runny' at 200°C but excellent at 190°C.  I changed to another brand and that was too stiff at 190°C but works well at 205°C.  Some experimentation is needed.  The fact that you have success on one part of the bed suggests that you might have a levelling problem - it is very critical.  Try printing some simple lines across the bed of your printer and see what happens when you peel them off - that will find adhesion differences.

 

That mini-chopsaw looks a handy tool.  I recently used a full-size one when replacing our deck in the garden but had never though of a mini-one.

 

I look forward to reading about your 'slightly secret' project.

 

Mike

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to comment
  • RMweb Gold

He can't tell us about the secret project as he'd have to kill us afterwards.

 

It is worth persevering to get the BLtouch working on the Ender-3, it makes bed leveling so much easier and the use of 9 points on the bed to generate a 'mesh' which then allows for slight warping on the bed is a great help. 

 

All the best

David

 

 

Link to comment
  • RMweb Premium
On 31/03/2020 at 20:03, Andrew Young said:

Those Talyllyn slate wagons are exquisite. What scale are they?

They are 1/32 and built by Trevor Hughes as part of a major project to model Pendre with no compression! Various bits of the project have appeared in MRJ and NGIR with more articles to come and hopefully the finished article but probably a couple of years away. It is all very inspiring and a great mix of traditional modelling with modern techniques where it is sensible to use them hence the 3d bobbins.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
6 minutes ago, KH1 said:

They are 1/32 and built by Trevor Hughes as part of a major project to model Pendre with no compression! Various bits of the project have appeared in MRJ and NGIR with more articles to come and hopefully the finished article but probably a couple of years away. It is all very inspiring and a great mix of traditional modelling with modern techniques where it is sensible to use them hence the 3d bobbins.

 

Thanks, I’m aware of that project and did wonder whether they were for that, but always best to ask. It’s going to be an excellent and inspiring model when completed which will probably put me off Modelling the TR completely. But then I do get to play with the real thing... (well virus’ permitting)

Link to comment
  • RMweb Premium

Thank you Mike, David and Snitzle for you comments. I have tried everything to get it levellled and seems to work for a bit but then not the bext time (which could be several weeks!), I use it. The filament thing is interesting though as I have used a couple of different sorts without thinking that it might be part of the variation. I have spent a substantial chumk of today in AutoCad and thought I was betting somewhere but now appeared to have changed something somewhere and nothing is behaving!

  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to comment

Out of interest, I looked at the All3DP review of the Ender-3 Pro and, while it was very favourable, they listed the following 'Cons'

  • Print bed leveling is tricky
  • Magnetic bed not to everyone’s liking
  • We’ve encountered problems with brittle filament
  • Sometimes, additional adhesion materials are needed
  • Some flaws of the Ender 3 weren‘t ironed out

From that, it looks as though they had problems with adhesion so it confirms that is where you need to direct your attention.  I once tried spraying the print bed with 'Spray Mount' but I'm not sure if that would work on a heated bed

Link to comment
  • RMweb Gold

Good to see an update. Hope you resolve the problems soon. 

 

Hope you are all keeping well.

Link to comment

So happy to see an update. That is an amazing amount of equipment to then acquire and start to use. I'm very impressed. Now that you have a secret project we will all want to know what it is. If Llamas are needed we can start to narrow it down. 

 

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...