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Building a B1 - moving chassis

Fen End Pit

Entry posted by Fen End Pit

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More progress with the Dave Bradwell B1 chassis kit over the weekend. The cosmetic and functional springs were fitted. The cosmetic springs hold the driving wheels from falling out and also hold the functional sprung steel wire spring. These springs are held at one end by a hole in the etch and at the other end in a 10 BA grub screw. These grub screws can then be used to adjust the individual amount of springing on each drive wheel. This picture shows off the P4 wheel profile rather nicely,

 

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Next I moved onto the bogie, which folded up nicely and then had additional overlays added. The wheels still require a washer on the front to simulate the large boss of the LNER wheels.

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Please excuse the wire insulation crankpin nuts but it is much easier to work with them at this stage. I know I still have to add the wheel balance weights.

The motor was refitted to the gearbox and a 'bridge' made up to restrain the top of the gearbox, this allows it to go up and down with the axle but not rotate with the torque applied to the wheels. It looks large but I think it will fit in the boiler!

 

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So I was able to try and run the loco up and down a piece of track on some fly leads from the controller. I was very pleased with how smooth it was and at the complete absence of binding on the quartering. There are some pretty hefty lumps of lead on the chassis because it is so light without them. The springing still needs some adjustment, I think there is too much bias on the centre axle. 

 

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So the next step is to make some pickups so I can try running on the layout.

 

If I'd chosen to build a B12 I'd be almost done but I mustn't get scared by the whirly, nashy, grindy valve gear to come! It is somewhat concerning that I have used up about 75% of the etch by area but less then 25% by number of parts. i.e the parts get a lot smaller from here on in.

 

Wish me luck!

 

David

 

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Dave Holt

David,

That's running very smoothly indeed, especially without any running in. I wish all my chassis were that good! Just take your time and use paper washers with a spot of oil or, perhaps, blacken the pivoting component, when assembling the valve gear joints, to help avoid soldering them solid. I haven't tried the blackening method, but think it might be the best solution and will try with my next set of valve gear.

Dave.

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Black5

Very nice indeed. Always good to see the metalwork going together before the paint arrives.

Best of luck with rest of the building program.

Jim.

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