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Banana van woes

WillCav

Entry posted by WillCav in GW Wagons

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 Hi all,

 

Over the last few months  I have been working on a GWR Y7 banana van.  It's a rare beast that seems to be a bit camera shy but it is the only 17'6" banana van.  There is not a kit generally available, so I decided to kit bash one.

 

The sides look like the standard 17'6" GWR body (Ratio GWR van) and the 9' WB underframe is like the Ratio GWR open. Ends would be modified Cooper Craft spares.

 

I have mostly built the wagon - I thought I only had tie bars to do. Until...

 

I was reading through the Atkins et al bible today - about the similar V21 and V33 vans - and I was reminded that the vertical side framing tucked under the floor - more work to do to file down the straight down frames. 

 

I then read on - the V23 respaced the vertical framing to have two equal panels each side of the door and the diagonals were different L then T section.  So the V21 body was different to the V23. My model making is not perfection. If a model looks right, it is alright for me. An inch wrong and I don't mind.

 

I then compared V21 and V23 body photos- and it is obvious. Once you see it, you can't unsee it. I will have to scrape off the detail and redo it. Aaargh! Would have been a lot easier when it was a kit part. And I have a V21 to do too.

 

Why did the GW have to redesign their wagons all the time? I suppose it was progress. And one of my colleagues says that everything GW looks the same!

 

Take care

 

Will

Edited by WillCav

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  • RMweb Gold
Mikkel
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Very interesting project, can't remember seeing one of those modelled before (although somewhere someone always has).

 

A shame about the setbacks, but I suppose it's part of the price for something unusual. Good luck with the remedial work, no doubt worth it in the end.

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Enterprisingwestern
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Having been in a similar situation with stock myself in the past, I just finished it off in its wrong state and hoped nobody would notice, which up to press I've got away with,  and built further one(s) correctly, just keep them apart!

Now with every kit I attempt I research the prototype as I don't necessarily trust the manufacturer, especially relevant with Parkside kits!

 

Mike.

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WillCav
2 hours ago, Mikkel said:

[snip] Good luck with the remedial work, no doubt worth it in the end.

Thanks Mikkel,

 

I took the plunge last night and started to remove the offending strapping.  It was a lot easier on the Ratio sides than it was on the Copper Craft ends - must be a different form of plastic.  I'm feeling more optimistic about it now.

 

Will

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WillCav
On ‎26‎/‎05‎/‎2020 at 07:51, Enterprisingwestern said:

Now with every kit I attempt I research the prototype as I don't necessarily trust the manufacturer, especially relevant with Parkside kits!

Excellent advice.  I am researching the O11/O15 and V12/14/16 types at the moment as there seems to be some uncertainty as to where the V hanger should go (central / slightly offset / more offset) on somw types and Atkins is not that helpful in this instance.

I have too many DC1 braked vehicles thanks to Cooper craft's instructions too!

Thanks

Will

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richbrummitt
10 hours ago, WillCav said:

Excellent advice.  I am researching the O11/O15 and V12/14/16 types at the moment as there seems to be some uncertainty as to where the V hanger should go (central / slightly offset / more offset) on somw types and Atkins is not that helpful in this instance.

I have too many DC1 braked vehicles thanks to Cooper craft's instructions too!

Thanks

Will

 

For the Minks: V12 offset V hanger, central on V14/16. I haven't actually finished any Opens so unable to help on those. I found this out after I finished bending a PECO body and NGS ends into a V12 so have the same issues as you and @Enterprisingwestern have found yourselves in. Since I'd already done the painting and lettering I hid behind a parapet. 

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WillCav
13 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

 

For the Minks: V12 offset V hanger, central on V14/16. I haven't actually finished any Opens so unable to help on those. I found this out after I finished bending a PECO body and NGS ends into a V12 so have the same issues as you and @Enterprisingwestern have found yourselves in. Since I'd already done the painting and lettering I hid behind a parapet. 

 

From looking at mink photos, that's what I thought - so thanks for the info.

 

The opens all seem to be central in photos, unlike the diagram in Atkins!

 

Thanks

 

Will

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