Barry Ten's Blog

Thanks for another clear explanation, great for building confidence to have a go

Well, all this inspired me to get out, what must be an early brass version, of the 44' Full Brake.  So after studying the instructions carefully, I managed to b####r up one of the sides bending it to shape*# got bored of my repeated failed attempts to solder on the droplights, packed up and am drinking tea and reading RMweb.

 

* using a set of metalsmith bending bars!

 

# the second side is perfect btw

PS: have any of your kits got bend down tabs on the droplights to hold glazing strips?  I've not seen these before on the two previous Roxey kits I've killed, so was wondering if it was an early idea that was dropped ?

 

Might just super glue in the droplights and vents, then take it outside and solder them up.

 

Cheers

 

Edited July 16, 2020 by Tim Dubya

2 minutes ago, Tim Dubya said:

PS: have any of your kits got bend down tabs on the droplights to hold glassing strips.  I've not seen these before so was wondering if it was an early idea that was dropped?

 

Might just super glue in the droplights and vents, then take it outside and solder them up.

 

Thank you for inspiring me to have a go, more tomorrow.

 

Not on these ones, no - and I don't think the Comet ones had anything like that on them. 

 

I know the purists won't like it, but I'd say there's a reasonable case for glueing the vents and droplights, as glueing allows more adjustment of the position. Once

it's primed and painted, they're not going to come loose without some persuasion!

 

Is that side of yours b*****red up beyond redemption?

You're right about the glue.  I've resurrected the first side and cyano'd in the drop lights and taped them up for soldering tomorrow (or not).

 

Vents are being glued in, I remember my first Roxey kit (mind you this is only number 3).

 

I've cut the tabs off the droplights, I'm going to experiment with microscope cover slides for glazing.

 

Cheers

Edited July 16, 2020 by Tim Dubya

I've not seen droplights like that before (but then again, I've not built many brands of kit) What make is that 40' brake, Tim? It looks nice.

It's a Roxey LSWR 44ft Full Brake.  I 'won' it on eBay years ago (and found a note in it yesterday saying "parts missing £5".  Thing is everything looks like it's there, I guess I'll find out later) 

 

I think it's an earlier kit as the bogies are all white metal, none of this fancy etched brass for me, although I don't mind wm bogies in general. 

 

Less windows are the better too, after today's experience

 

https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/90/4c05-lswr-44ft-full-brake/

 

Edited July 16, 2020 by Tim Dubya

I think I'll be tackling that one, then.

"At least one seemed to appear on every LSWR train!”

 

Dave has spoken.

 

Cheers

It'd be rude not to!

 

While I'm at it I think I'll order the matching brake for this set as well.

3 hours ago, Tim Dubya said:

You're right about the glue.  I've resurrected the first side and cyano'd in the drop lights and taped them up for soldering tomorrow (or not).

 

 

 

 

Cyano and solder - that's a VERY bad idea, the fumes evolved are not exactly good for you!

 

Jon

9 minutes ago, jonhall said:

 

Cyano and solder - that's a VERY bad idea, the fumes evolved are not exactly good for you!

 

Jon

 

Thanks, I will take it outside if I go down that route.   I think I'll just stick and re-enforce with a smear of poxy if necessary.

 

Cheers

Edited July 16, 2020 by Tim Dubya

22 minutes ago, jonhall said:

 

Cyano and solder - that's a VERY bad idea, the fumes evolved are not exactly good for you!

 

Jon

 

I presumed that's why Tim said he'd do it outside!

 

I've inadvertently heated up cyano once or twice and err... (checks pulse) I'm still here! Probably not a good thing to do too many times though.

1 hour ago, Barry Ten said:

It'd be rude not to!

 

While I'm at it I think I'll order the matching brake for this set as well.

 

Oh, just out of interest to see if this has been redesigned (thinking droplights), here's mine straight outta da box:

 

Very tasty. Are those locating holes for the vents?

Yep two per vent, unlike the Roxey Maunsell rebuilds which have one.  I'm so glad Hornby released them!

Well this is nice to see.  I built a 5 coach rake of LSWR non corridor stock several years a go for a friend.  I did them in, IIRC, 1912 chocolate and salmon livery.  A challenging project but they got done...eventually:

 

 

I mixed the salmon myself and made the lining transfers - aaarghhh!

 

Just one example.  All I can say is "I'm glad to see the back of them."

 

BTW, using CA to attach fiddly details is not a crime in my book.

 

John

Edited July 16, 2020 by brossard

7 hours ago, brossard said:

 

BTW, using CA to attach fiddly details is not a crime in my book.

 

 

After the soldering has finished I absolutely agree.

 

9 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

 

I presumed that's why Tim said he'd do it outside!

 

I've inadvertently heated up cyano once or twice and err... (checks pulse) I'm still here! Probably not a good thing to do too many times though.

 

Tim didn't actually say that until after my post, and I had the impression he is a relatively novice etched brass builder, so I thought the evolved fumes ought to be mentioned .

 

So have I, but I think there is a difference between accidentally doing it, and it being part of the plan! 

 

Jon

11 hours ago, brossard said:

Well this is nice to see.  I built a 5 coach rake of LSWR non corridor stock several years a go for a friend.  I did them in, IIRC, 1912 chocolate and salmon livery.  A challenging project but they got done...eventually:

 

 

I mixed the salmon myself and made the lining transfers - aaarghhh!

 

Just one example.  All I can say is "I'm glad to see the back of them."

 

BTW, using CA to attach fiddly details is not a crime in my book.

 

John

 

That looks very good to me, John. I was in two minds about going all the way back to the salmon and chocolate livery, very tempting but they'd have been a bit out of period (even by my standards). Did you draw and print the lining transfers yourself?

Hi Barry, my friend bought a Hornby T9 in the pre group LSWR livery and then decided he wanted coaches to go with it.  He bought the kits and then asked for volunteers.  Like an idiot, I put my hand up.  The build was straightforward enough as I'm sure you are finding but the livery was a challenge.

 

I drew the lining with Powerpoint using a scan of the sides as a guide.  I had to use clear transfer film because white backed would require matching the colour.

 

It all adds to the experience base but I wouldn't do it again.

 

To top it all off, I am told that the T9 isn't man enough to pull them, despite traction tyres. 

 

John

Slightly tangential, but the T9s will pull quite nicely if they're properly adjusted. Some of them had a problem where the bogie spring was bearing against the footplate and lifting some of the weight off the main drivers. The cure was to remove the bogie and cut/file a small rebate into the underside of the footplate. I had to do this on one of mine to get it to haul anything, whereas the other two were OK.

I daresay you are right but after handing the coaches over, I had nothing further to do with the loco and train.  I resigned from the club for about 3 years and then rejoined about a year ago.

 

I forwarded your advice to the T9 owner.

 

John

Edited July 17, 2020 by brossard

For the sake of clarity, I think it's the bogie retaining pin which the spring sits over that's the problem - it's a tiny bit too long (or hasn't been trimmed off properly) so that it juts above the frames and contacts the bottom of the footplate. There was a fair bit of discussion on Rmweb when the T9 came out, and it seemed very dependent on the batch of models, rather than being  a design flaw across all of them. If your colleague has taken the chassis off a T9, the problem/solution should be pretty evident.

Thanks Barry, he replied to say he would have a look over the weekend.  Again, I forwarded your comments.

 

John