So the point motors arrived,along with some switches, cable, pins and PVA. Though not the cheapest motor, I've gone with Peco 'Twistloc' ones, mostly because installation is simple and doesn't involve quarrying a huge hole in pristine baseboards. More in a bit. The first operation was to position the double slip where it goes for real. Unfortunately Wine has decided it doesn't want to pay with Anyrail at the moment, there's two versions of a library in use by different packages at the same time, one works, one doesn't. Guess which one Wine wants to use..... I could sort it out using paths but.... So, anyway, I used the diagram above (thank god I published it!) which turned out to be fine. Step 1 : Cut out cork 'template'. Simple enough, just draw round it, but I did mark out where the holes for the leads should go at the same time. Then, using skill, precision, accuracy and 's'about right' the slip was positioned. Lengths of track were placed around to simulate the final layout. I did this because back in the day I didn't and finished up with 2" headshunts etc due to over optimism. All was good so.... first step, drill out the fixing holes in the slip sleepers. For fixing the track I use 20mm panel pins (£1 for 1000000). The process is: drill sleeper such that the pin is a tightish fit, but wont deform the sleeper, then countersink it a little bit (using a larger drill bit by hand) so the head will be flush. The cork 'template' is then placed where it should be and small holes drilled through it and the baseboard for the dropper wires. Next I took away the cork and marked out the point motor hole and fixings using the templates supplied by Peco.

The template is for points (N/009, OO and O), but not slips. A bit of a ponder came up with Plan A. With slip switch blades help in mid position I drilled a 1mm pilot hole through the hole in the tie bar, ditto the other end. Without moving anything, I marked the ends of the tie bars n the baseboard. Then I took away the slip and drilled the 6mm hole at each end through the pilot holes. Taking one template, I drew a line extending the line of the tie bar on the template such that it would reach the tie bar marks in the board, followed buy cutting out the 6mm hole on the template with a craft knife. By lining up the hole and the tie bar lines the position of the two fixing screw pilot holes can be drilled in the right place. This is the point I should have drilled corresponding 6mm holes in the cork too. Ooops.

Next was an unavoidable excursion under the baseboard to fix the 'stud' things the motor clips too, a screw and two 'top hat' washers that form the clip the motor locks to. I was slightly surprised the screws are slotted and not cross head, but I guess that's to sop over tightening - I had reached for the electric screwdriver automatically and would probably have over tightened the screws, possibly splitting the washery things. Any way, all went exactly as planned and the two point motors clicked into place - free to operate as intended. I was so excited I forgot to take a photo.

Onward to the unwinding of the dropper wires from round the slip sleepers where Peco put them to keep them safe. I ran then (carefully!) between finger and thumb to get the kinks out. These are then fed through the corresponding holes in the cork and baseboard, and carefully pulled to get the slack out so they don't get trapped under a sleeper. Gently the slip gets nearer the baseboard and to the point where motor rods are located. This is the point I remembered I hadn't drilled the 6mm holes through the cork - so start over!

With the holes drilled and back to the same point, the motor rods are located. This is fiddly, or can be. The first one went pretty much straight in, but the second took about 20 minutes to locate. You can't really see what you are doing, so it is pretty much luck when it goes in. I thought about doing it from underneath, locating the rod then clicking the motor in place, but that was only going to generate a stiff neck. After the aforementioned 20 minutes, everything is in place. Constantly checking the tie bars were not obstructed I positioned the slip by the marks made at the start. Now to nail it down. As mentioned above, the sleepers have been drilled to accept 20mm panel pins. Through these holes I drilled pilot holes through the baseboard, about 2/3 the diameter of the pins. I'd experimented on scrap wood to select the drill size. It might seem a bit odd to drill a hole for a nail, but I do this so that the pin can be pushed in. I use the side of a small hammer. Or pliers. Or anything with a square end really. This obviates the risk of missing very expensively with a hammer and allows a deal of control so you don't go too far and make narrow-gauge track. Also, and perhaps most importantly, if you make a boob or change your mind you can get the pin out again without trashing the track. So there we go, bar the wiring. Oh, and cutting off the end of the motor rod - stunt 08ing isn't a recognised sport. Yet. Having laid the slip, I can lay two whole yards of track permanently! I attached the first, slid the cork sheet under, and lined it up. To me it's vital to look down the track from as low as is practicable to check the 'flow'. Looking from above this yard looked fine, but looking along it revealed the angle with the slip at the join was not quite right and the track itself a little wobbly.

Above : Slight over-curve into the slip there

Having laid the slip, I can lay two whole yards of track permanently! I attached the first, slid the cork sheet under, and lined it up. To me it's vital to look down the track from as low as is practicable to check the 'flow'. Looking from above this yard looked fine, but looking along it revealed the angle with the slip at the join was not quite right and the track itself a little wobbly. After much sleeper shunting I got it where I wanted it.

The sleepers, or at least those that were going to be fixed, were drilled as outlined, checking all the time nothing had moved. Pilot holes were then drilled and the track pinned - except where there was a slight drop in the baseboard due to using re-cycled timber. Using a craft knife I then cut away the cork at the sleeper ends (this is the platform road, so will be fairly well ballasted), packed the slight sag, and pinned it. The second yard was was laid in the same way, but a level used to make sure it's straight for the platform. I'd used the level on the slip too, to make sure it is flat. Another 200mm or so of track is required, but I'll wait and see what off-cuts I get to use for that. Might as well fit the Peco buffer stops I keep banging on about thinks I, but alas I only have 4/5ths of one and the other has vanished. Dammed aliens again I expect. With the holes drilled and back to the same place, the motors are located. This is fiddly, or can be. The first one went pretty much straight in, but the second took about 20 minutes to locate. You can't really see what you are doing, so it is pretty much luck when it goes in. I thought about doing it from underneath, locating the rod then clicking the motor in place, but that was only going to generate a stiff neck. After the aforementioned 20 minutes, everything is in place. Constantly checking the tie bars were not obstructed I positioned the slip by the marks made at the start. Above The point (chortle) at which the fun starts - locating the point motor rods. Now to nail it down. As mentioned above, the sleepers have been drilled to accept 20mm panel pins. Through these holes I drilled pilot holes through the baseboard, about 2/3 the diameter of the pins. I'd experimented on scrap wood to select the drill size. It might seem a bit odd to drill a hole for a nail, but I do this so that the pin can be pushed in. I use the side of a small hammer. Or pliers. Or anything with a square end really. This obviates the risk of missing very expensively with a hammer and allows a deal of control so you don't go too far and make narrow-gauge track. Also, and perhaps most importantly, if you make a boob or change your mind you can get the pin out again without trashing the track. So there we go, bar the wiring. Oh, and cutting off the end of the motor rod - stunt 08ing isn't a recognised sport. Yet. Having laid the slip, I can lay two whole yards of track permanently! I attached the first, slid the cork sheet under, and lined it up. To me it's vital to look down the track from as low as is practicable to check the 'flow'. Looking from above this yard looked fine, but looking along it revealed the angle with the slip at the join was not quite right and the track itself a little wobbly. After much sleeper shunting I got it where I wanted it

This is the best thing in the world since sliced bread. No, wait, forget the bread. I've had this for years but never really used it. Setting up the cutter as above I fully expected a face full of bits of disc, but it went through the rails like butter. Ace.

A little bit of packing due to a slightly saggy bit of baseboard. The pin has been pushed in just enough to hold the track, without deforming it.

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