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Scrap Tank - chimney


antyeates1983

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Apologies for the lack of updates recently. I've continued to make progress but not got around to writing it up. The next thing to be tackled was the chimney. Again I made a rough sketch guessing the dimensions from photos and Peter Tatlow's drawing. Since the chimney has a very thin skirt around the base, I decided to adopt the "squashing" method instead of the "filing" method used with the dome. In particular, I first drilled a hole up the middle of the chimney, then cut the top of the flange to the correct depth using a half-round cutter near the end of the bar. I then opened out the inside of the hole using a graver, until the flange was as thin as I dared. Then I squashed a brass tube into the end with the toolpost to form the flange. This works remarkably well - you can see the chimney just after this operation in the first photo below:IMG_1631.JPG.ae0d0e9bf02691b4b2d52cb1ae91abe4.JPG

 

It was then a case of turning the rest of the chimney to shape. This can mostly be done without removing it from the chuck, with a bit of rod held in the tailstock used to support the free end. The photos below show the result, along with the rod that I superglued up the middle. This started life as a spigot turned on a length of larger diameter rod held in the chuck, the idea being that the chimney will be held concentrically after turning it around. The chimney is glued on to this and the top end drilled out to its final inner radius. I then simply cut it off with a piercing saw.

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In the second picture above, you can see that I made the flange so thin that it split where I formed it to shape. I decided that this could easily be filled with solder once located on the boiler. The next photo shows the chimney soldered in place. The prototype seems to have some quite visible rivets (or bolts?) fixing the chimney flange to the boiler. But for the moment I think it may be neater to leave these off. At this point I decided that I didn't like the shape of the dome - it's bottom flange is far too thick compared to the prototype. So the next task was to make a new dome...

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  • Craftsmanship/clever 3

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My recommendation next time is to anneal the skirt before forming over the tube or rod. It will be much more malleable and the risk of splitting lower.

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