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A village general shop (4)



The shop window was fixed in place, but what to do about dressing it?  The plan by John Ahern contains a small drawing showing jars and boxes, which can be copied and painted.  I photocopied, painted and fixed it in place.  However, it looked rather flat and had a 'Toy Town' look about it. Acceptable in the 1940's but not to our more discerning 21st century eyes.  I ripped (literally) it out and sat down for a rethink.  I decided to make a window display from small rectangles of card.  They were arranged and glued onto a false floor and a shelf, before being painted with watercolours.  The whole scene was then pushed into place from the rear of the window opening and secured with glue.  Here is a picture of the rather weather-beaten window...






The shop doors were cut from a piece of thin card.  The lower panels were scribed and the upper panels were cut out.  The door frame was slightly built up with more thin card.





The whole piece was then glued to some acetic sheet to represent the windows and to give it some strength.  A wash of brown watercolour followed and the door knob was added, this being the head of a Peco track pin. (Make a hole with a scriber, push the pin through, add glue and when dry, snip off the pin behind the door.)  A slither of thin card was added for the letterbox and a dab of watercolour finished it off.  The front doorstep, a rectangle of card, was painted and glued in place.  So, we have now arrived at this...




At this stage I gave the interior of the building a wash of dark watercolour.


The rear door and step have now been put in place...




Two rectangles of mount board were cut out for the roof and small rectangles were cut out at each end to accommodate the chimneys.  At this stage the edges of the roof and about 5mm all round the underside of the edges were coloured with a dark felt-tipped pen.  This prevents us looking at white eaves.  Two rectangles were cut from Scalescenes TX41 Red Tiles sheet and glued to the two mount board rectangles to form the roof.  Both sides of the roof were now glued in place.  Ridge tiles are from the same sheet as the tiles.  They were fixed in place with a glue stick.





If you have the book 'Miniature Building Construction' please turn to the rear and have a look at the drawing of the village shop.  You will notice that just below the roof edge the eaves have an inverted castellated effect.  I have been advised that this was probably known as 'Dog-tooth' brickwork.  Basically just fancy brickwork.  I gave some thought as to how to replicate this fancy brickwork under the eaves and decided that it could be achieved by gluing the appropriate brick or stucco paper to 1mm card, cutting a strip to the right depth and then cutting off small squares from the strip.  I used my trusty  chopping tool to cut small squares all to the same size.  I used small card spacers to ensure the same space between each square of brick... 




Both sides of the building were quickly completed...







For the gutters I used Evergreen No.242 half-round styrene strip.  I had previously given it a lick of black acrylic paint.







The downpipes are made by my usual method - Evergreen No.221, 3/64" rod.  Always willing to try something new, I decided to make the small brackets, which hold the downpipes to the wall, from the same self-adhesive labels used in making the windows.   Part of the label was coloured black with a felt-tipped pen and a narrow strip cut off.  A 5mm long portion of the strip was cut off for each bracket and carefully laid in place and firmed down with tweezers.







The cut ends of the gutters were given a lick of black acrylic paint.



Subtle weathering was applied to the roof using watercolour paints.  I had previously sprayed the roof tiles with Testors Dullcote matt varnish before fitting to the roof.  This meant I was able to apply watercolour paint without fear of the ink running.  The tops of the chimneys were added using the strip of card covered in stucco paper, as used for the decorative brickwork under the eaves.  The flashing around the chimneys was added using Scalescenes TX00b Roof Flashing.





Rectangles of card were glued to the chimney tops to represent the mortar into which the chimney pots are set, these being commercial white metal items which are widely available.  Using watercolour paints I applied some more subtle weathering, such as rainwater streaks running down from the window sills.  Advertising signs are from the excellent Sankey Scenics range.  Lastly, the shopkeeper's name was produced on my computer.  I have used the same name as per the John Ahern drawing.


Without further ado, here is the finished model...












Thanks for watching.


Please feel free to comment or ask questions.


See you on the next build.














Edited by col.stephens
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  • Like 4
  • Craftsmanship/clever 8


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Terry, this is truly inspiring stuff!  I've always thought that many of the illustrations in John's book would be great to make, and this is just the incentive I need! Bravo!


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  • RMweb Gold

That is excellent. Thanks for all the details of parts used to make gutters and downpipes. I had been searching for small items that I might use on a few of my buildings (when I actually get around to them).


It is the attention to small detail which makes these kinds of building look realistic. 

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Thank you both for your kind comments.  I look forward to seeing your completed buildings.

Another build starting soon.



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Another excellent build. For me it is all good but the advertising signs are the finishing touch. Thanks.


In appreciation of the work of John H Ahern, a shot of the Madder Valley taken at Pendon:




If anyone has not visited Pendon then I can honestly say it is worth the visit, as soon as circumstances allow. In the meantime you can always offer your support by becoming a friend of Pendon.

Edited by goldngreen
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Thank you so much for your kind comments and for posting that lovely picture.  There are still lots of John Ahern's building which I would like to build when time and other projects permit

Another build will be posted soon.



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I really like this village shop.  I mostly used kits until now, But I will try some scratch building from a drawing Allan Downes. 


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Go for it!  Card is cheap (or free) and if you make a mistake it costs nothing to have another go.


Best wishes,


Terry Kempton

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Inspirational! Tell me, what knife do you use to produce such straight-edged cuts in your openings? When I cut card of 1mm or more, I tend to get bevelled edges. 

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