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Barney - wheels etc.




The next thing I did was to add the reversing lever and smokebox door, which you can see in the photo below. The reversing lever was included (as a single piece) on the etch, but I struggled to fit it between the splasher and the boiler. I think this is probably because of the splasher being a bit over-sized compared to the prototype. In the end I had to file a curved bit out of the lever. The smokebox door was turned on the lathe, doing the curve with a graver. It has a spigot in the back locating it in the etched hole in the smokebox front, and was drilled 0.3mm all the way through to attach the dart later. In this shot you can see the various holes drilled in the boiler for chimney, dome, safety valve and handrails knobs. These holes were all drilled on the Proxxon mill, with the boiler fitted to the footplate as you see here. I marked them out as best I could and then lined up the drill by eye. Perhaps surprisingly, it is much easier to drill very small holes at high speed on the mill than it is to do them by hand - I have much fewer breakages that way.




In the photo above you can see the wheels test fitted in some spare "loose" muffs that I now keep for the purpose, after brush painting them with enamels. Those on the loco are the new 3D-printed Association wheels, and very smart they look too! It was at this point that I realised I'd forgotten to attach my carefully etched balance weights! However, I was able to stick these on carefully with Araldite. (The crankpins, incidentally, are also stuck on with Araldite.)


Here are some of the wheels after attaching and painting the weights:




My most recent efforts have been directed at the mechanism. This first photo shows my planned arrangement for the driveshaft. The motor (a Tramfabriek 7mm coreless from the Association shop) will be in the tender. The white "blob" attached to the motor shaft is the female end of one of the 3D-printed universal joints sold by the Association shop. Two of the male ends are attached to the (rather out of focus) sprue in the foreground. The sprue is larger than the joints themselves. The drive shaft is thin steel wire, and it will glue into one of these male ends. However, at the loco end, you see that I'm planning a different  arrangement. Borrowed from Ian Smith, this consists of a hole drilled in the end of the worm axle, and a bent ring in the end of the driveshaft. It's actually easier to drill the hole than to bend a nice ring, so we will see how smoothly it runs. I haven't tried it yet as I still need to establish the correct length of the driveshaft. 




This next photo shows you the worm in place, along with the wormwheel and intermediate gear (it will drive the rear driving wheel, closest to the camera). I realised that I had not allowed enough of an opening in the bottom of the body to get the chassis in once the worm shaft was attached, so I had to rather awkwardly file and cut away more of the cab floor.




Finally, here's a photo of my motor mount, which screws to the floor of the tender. It's the same idea used in my Scrap Tank allowing the motor to be removable. I'm getting close to the moment of truth (first test run)...



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That’s coming along nicely Anthony.

I can’t take any credit for the hole-in-the-shaft form of joint at one end of the cardan shaft. I can’t remember where I saw it used (or by whom, although it may have been Jim or Tim) but it seemed to satisfy a need to hold captive the shaft so that it doesn’t get lost should the shaft dis-engage for any reason.


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