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A Stephenson-ish Single

Ian Simpson

Entry posted by Ian Simpson in 1840s locomotives

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The iconic British locomotive design (and the most common one) in the early 1840s was the 2-2-2 inside-cylinder tender loco. Each builder had their own unique features, but the general outline didn't vary too much across UK companies. This post gives some suggestions on ways to use the Dapol (ex-Airfix) Rocket kit to produce a generic single.

 

The model was built by Nigel Hill, who unfortunately isn't on RMWeb. There's still some work needed, especially fitting outside frames and handrails around the footplate:

 

NigelHillsSingle(1).JPG.4fe21d90020c8a9faf86a59e24827481.JPG

 

Nigel used 0.0040 inch thick styrene sheet to make the chassis, using the hornblocks (I think that's what they are called) from the Dapol kit to hold the axles  in place. A strip of stiff card around 60 mm by 14 mm wide would be suitable for the main chassis, although Nigel's chassis was a bit wider, which meant he had to cut out notches for the wheels. Hopefully the photo below shows the arrangement for the axles: the middle blocks are glued flush with the top side of the sheet (he cut additional notches in the chassis strip to allow this), while the blocks that take the carrying wheels are glued to a couple of pieces of 0.0040" card between the carrying wheels' axle blocks and the chassis strip to get the right height:

 

NigelHillsSingle(4).JPG.ed3a6fc5b0c9193a4f6e9ac00966dbee.JPG

 

He used the Dapol Rocket drivers and tender wheels for the chassis, although in the photos I've replaced the carrying wheels with Gibson wheel sets (and may replace the drivers as well) to make the wheels more free-running. The loco is powered from the tender by a Bachmann deWitt Clinton tender drive unit with the Rocket tender sides fixed to it.  One easy tweak to the driving wheels is to trim out the little piece of plastic that holds the crank pin, as there won't be a coupling rod:

 

Nigel then used a piece of planked plastic card to build an upper layer that acts as the footplate, adding splashers made from strips of thinner plasticard. He didn't get around to fitting outside frames, and I haven't done this yet myself.  I think I might be able to use strips of plasticard for the outside frames (edit: now described in the comments thread below, at post 5), and cut-down pieces of Ratio GWR-style "spear" fencing for the rails around the footplate.

 

NigelHillsSingle(2).JPG.85fce98908988883a510b29abc0b8b80.JPG

 

The boiler comes from the Rocket kit, but Nigel built his own smokebox and firebox from plasticard.  Alternatively the Dapol firebox can be trimmed from the Rocket's boiler (it's moulded onto the boiler parts, but sits too low for an 1840s design) and then glued back on at the right height. I used a Dapol kit butchered in this way to make the stationery engine below:

 

Tinories(1).jpg.1c83000916707b9a5cb7de3d3cb09d1e.jpg

 

Edited by Ian Simpson
Reloading photos

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5&9Models

Fascinating job Ian, good to see such an iconic loco being modelled. I’m still hoping Hornby will follow their forthcoming Lion with a Patentee or Planet... or both!

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Ian Simpson
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2 hours ago, 5&9Models said:

... I’m still hoping Hornby will follow their forthcoming Lion with a Patentee or Planet... or both!

 

A Bury 2-2-0 for me, I think!

And who knows what Rapido will give us at noon on April Fool's Day :):

 

Edited by Ian Simpson
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Mikkel
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Great stuff Ian. Very creative use of parts by both Nigel and you. I like the idea of using cut-down spear fencing for those rails, quite ingenious.

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Ian Simpson
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My quick fix for the outside frames.

I added 4 mm wide strips of 0.0100" plasticard to the sides of the loco to make the frames:

679147748_MiddenshireSingle02.jpg.142ea090fded3764fc6fc753a980ace4.jpg

 

Then added shorter vertical strips of the same card to represent the axleboxes:

1215249471_MiddenshireSingle03.jpg.206390f743d82e8e4af601371a4c105c.jpg

 

Followed by an undercoat of Humbrol enamel paint. Perhaps I'll put another horizontal strip over the top of those vertical ones:

611813725_MiddenshireSingle04.jpg.7d059603a20e0377f94507d02b7537d0.jpg

 

But at the moment I've no idea where I've put my expletive-inserted spear fencing! While I'm looking for it, here's a photo of Nigel's Bachmann John Bull conversion with railings made from the fence:

1137603192_NigelHill-JohnBullwithrailings.jpg.e464cc1d7188a6dcd7d4a039a3a07b9d.jpg

Edited by Ian Simpson
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45587

Excellent work. That spear fencing is very useful for models of early locos, and the Rocket kit likewise, if only for the tender. A question - how did you manage to cut the barrels off the DeWitt Clinton tender without getting metal filings in the motor?  I tried dismantling the whole thing but then couldn't get it back together in working order.

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33C

Have you thought about using Micro-Scalextric car chassis, like a small Black beetle but a low floor pan. Just change the wheels. Pick up could use the braids rubbing on the rear of the flange...... :locomotive:

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Ian Simpson
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14 hours ago, 45587 said:

Excellent work. That spear fencing is very useful for models of early locos, and the Rocket kit likewise, if only for the tender. A question - how did you manage to cut the barrels off the DeWitt Clinton tender without getting metal filings in the motor?  I tried dismantling the whole thing but then couldn't get it back together in working order.

Thanks, Richard. I've found the DeWitt Clinton barrels are separate items held in place with (rather tight) pins, not an integral part of the tender chassis. All that's needed is a pair of pliers and the brutal determination of a medieval dentist. 

1208973606_deWittClintontenderbarrels02.jpg.1a4b06a9e4708436ef754c2b2a2e5049.jpg

 

Oh, and nerves of steel will help as well. When I did this, I was gripping the wheels so tightly that they started to come off their axles - which is how I discovered they are actually just pushed onto the axles in the first place.  And that leads on rather nicely to @33C's clever suggestion ...

 

Edit: thinking about it, a sharp blade across the base of the barrels might deal with any paint that is helping to hold them in place?

Edited by Ian Simpson
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Ian Simpson
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On 15/04/2021 at 00:27, 33C said:

Have you thought about using Micro-Scalextric car chassis, like a small Black beetle but a low floor pan. Just change the wheels. Pick up could use the braids rubbing on the rear of the flange...... :locomotive:

Thanks, 33C, that sounds an excellent idea. Or perhaps those little radio-controlled cars that appear just before Christmas! I'll have to experiment.

I think it would be possible to use short lengths of brass tube to deal with any differences in axle thickness. Hopefully a dropper resistor and the larger wheels would get the speed down from Formula 1 speeds to shunting-friendly ones!

Edited by Ian Simpson
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45587
5 hours ago, Ian Simpson said:

I've found the DeWitt Clinton barrels are separate items held in place with (rather tight) pins, not an integral part of the tender chassis. All that's needed is a pair of pliers and the brutal determination of a medieval dentist. 

 

Egad, why didn't I try that before? Thanks very much for the advice. Now, where are my pliers? 

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