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Paynestown 2 - thoughts on couplings


Barry Ten

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Since this layout is hoped to work as a branch terminus, some consideration needs to be given to a hands-off coupling system. I used Spratt & Winkles

on the big Paynestown, and while these are available in 2mm, I can't say I remember seeing them in use. More to the point, I find them enough of

a pain to set up in 4mm, so it wasn't a road I necessarily wanted to go down again.

 

I'd liked the look of DG couplings so while I wasn't sure how I'd get on with them, I thought it was worth the relatively small investment of a couple

of etches and wire from Wizard Models.

 

DG1.jpg.2c078f7f2bd36f138baa17597d68ce76.jpg

 

This Toad was the first recipient. It took me about three goes and most of an evening to form a working coupling, and then I carried on and made a few more, enabling a short train to be formed. After some tests, I found that I was struggling to get the loops to engage with each other so following what others seem to do, I only fitted a loop at one end of each vehicle. Trains will never be turned around so provided stock is marshalled correctly at the start of operation, it should all work.

 

There is a clever little delay latch in the DG design which allows stock to be uncoupled and propelled, much as with S&Ws. This is the bit I found I trickiest as the latch has to fall back into position on its own, and I found mine were tending to stick in the vertical. How they work in reality will have to wait until I have some electromagnets in place. A test over Kadee magnets on the American layout seemed encouraging, though.

 

DG2.jpg.9cdf8c56eaa219cc8d5850d5c8d09045.jpg

 

This Bachmann Farish 64XX has had a hook and loop fixed at the rear, which I think is relatively satisfactory compared to the original Rapido job. At the front, there only needs to be a hook so the effect will be better.

 

Incidentally I acquired the Bachmann loco because I wasn't at all happy with the running of the Dapol 57XX, and wouldn't have had confidence to proceed if the Dapol one represented a typical benchmark for a tank loco in N. Happily the 64XX is by far the better runner, with smooth starts and an ability to plod around quite nicely at shunting speeds. After lockdown, I'll ask a mate to look at the Dapol one for me as he has a lot more experience of N mechanisms and may be able to diagnose why it's not capable of the same performance. I gather these Dapol models aren't too bad so mine must be a rogue of some kind. It's a pity as the detailing is excellent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Barry Ten

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Al, these are useful insights into a couple of things I'd been wondering about (separately), namely whether DG couplings are better than S&Ws, and whether the current panniers in N run well enough for a  small layout in a drawer. On the latter, the 64xx sounds like a good place to start. 

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  • RMweb Gold

The 64XX certainly does (there are a few areas of track I still need to fettle where it stalls occasionally, but that's not the loco's fault). As for the 57XX, I'm slightly holding out hope that it might be improving with lubrication. Grease didn't seem to improve it at all, but I tried a few drops of normal plastic-compatible oil last night and there was a noticeable improvement, so I plan to keep running it in and add a bit more oil, sparingly. Glad my dabblings in couplings may be of some help!

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Al, DG couplings used as you are with loops at only one end are pretty reliable. Because my stock gets spun at each end of the layout I have to fit loops at both ends, and occasionally when coupling up both loops ride up on each other so neither of them engages with the hook. It is pretty important that all of the couplings are a consistent height above rail level (a simple block of something, in my case 4 layers of plasticard 0.040” thick and one of 0.020” makes a suitable jig) couplings adjusted so that bottom edge of buffing plate is at 4.5mm above rail level.

I look forward to reading more of your adventures in N. Although you really should go the whole hog and do it in 2FS :rolleyes: (only joking)

Ian

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks, Ian - that advice about the 4.5mm datum will be very handy.

 

I have the utmost admiration for the 2FS community but I know my limits! At least with this exercise, the track is the only variable. I'd hate to be laying track for the first time and also trying to get a 2mm mechanism to run!

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10 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

Thanks, Ian - that advice about the 4.5mm datum will be very handy.

 

I have the utmost admiration for the 2FS community but I know my limits! At least with this exercise, the track is the only variable. I'd hate to be laying track for the first time and also trying to get a 2mm mechanism to run!

Al, I fully understand that sentiment. I moved to the smaller scale on my return to railway modelling in 2013 simply because I hadn’t really got room for the P4 layout I’d started many years before that languished in my loft.

Jerry Clifford convinced me to give 2FS a go, which fitted with my desire to model pre-grouping GWR which commercial N gauge didn’t cover. Had my desire been 1930’s or BR then I think I would probably have gone with commercial N gauge.

Ian

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  • RMweb Premium

With regard to the coupling height datum, normally the default is hard up against the underside of the wagon headstock, but if you intend running bogie stock of any kind, either coaches or diesels, you might want to consider fitting the DG’s on the bogies, in which case the coupling height level for all the stock would need to be lower. This has a knock-on in that the loop tails need to be shorter as well to avoid them catching the track when lifted. IIRC my setting to do all this is around 1mm lower than standard.  Oh, and the delay latches don’t work/can’t be fitted on coaches with corridor connections.....(they can’t lift high enough - bump their heads).

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Izzy

 

I'm intending to run a B-set as the main coaching stock, and my plan was to body-mount the DGs as I've done with S&Ws on all my 4mm coaching stock. If

that doesn't work, a rethink will be needed. The B-set won't be gangwayed but I plan to make the run-around along enough to accommodate a third

coach if needed, which might end up being gangwayed (like a Hawksworth brake, for instance). I thought about nibbling a recess under the gangway to

allow for the delay latch?

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  • RMweb Premium

I know people do body mount them on coaches/diesels but I’m afraid I don’t know what the track radius limits might be through pointwork and curves etc so thought it worth mentioning. I’m afraid I use quite tight radius so it’s not an option for me. 

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  • RMweb Gold

With the passenger train there's no real need for the coaches to negotiate any curves beyond a slight bend on the station road, so I think I'll be OK - but as always the proof will be in the pudding. The passenger train can run in and out from the straight road in the fiddle yard if needed. On the 4mm Paynestown, the remaining passenger services were handled by a 14xx and auto-coach, and a railcar, both of which tended to work into the bay.

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  • RMweb Premium

I've used DGs in 4mm for years, never in 2mm, but the basic principles are the same.

 

The key with DGs is that they must all be the same height. It doesn't matter what that height is, as long as they're all the same. In 4mm, Leeds MRS members have standardised on 8mm from rail to the bottom of the buffing plate. We certainly don't have any problems with corridor coaches at that height.

 

Don't bend the hook back too far - just enough to stop the loop jumping off. The instructions suggest 15 degrees, which works for me.

 

The latch should fall under gravity. If it doesn't, it might be because you've splayed the retaining tabs out a little too far. We bend the tabs forward a little to stop the latch lifting too far and going over centre too.

 

I only body-mount them on rigid-wheelbase stock. On some long-wheelbase 4-wheeled vans I let them pivot with a piece of wire extending under the body as a light centring spring.

 

Single-ended couplings are fine if you never turn your stock.

 

Hope that helps.

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