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Yet more sheeted wagons


Dave John

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The bench has been occupied by some non-railway stuff, but back to wagons now. Sheeted wagons tend to be modelled in far fewer numbers than period photos indicate that they were used, so I’m slowly trying to nudge the proportions in the right general direction.

 

I am still trying to get sheeted wagons to look reasonably right. Having proper tie down cleats and roping from the edge helps, but the sheets themselves really need to look like Caledonian sheets with individual numbers. I have been messing about trying to achieve that, improvement of earlier attempts.

 

These were created in “Sketchbook” though many similar drawing packages are out there. The use of layers allows me to easily change the sheet number.  I spent quite a while messing about with colours and print densities when used with a variety of substrates. The issue is getting something which can be made to conform to the load and still allows a reasonably sharp print, In the end I found that a medium weight matte photo paper gives a reasonable result when treated with photo sealant. It is still fairly still in use, perhaps representing a sheet in new condition.

 

To get it creased each sheet was scrunched up, then unfolded and folded back up in the correct manner for an unused sheet. Several foldings and unfoldings seem to be required. following that ezline sheet tie loops were added round the edges.

 

Anyway, thats how they came out. Loads underneath are just softwood hewn to shape, the wagons are a D15 and a D24 made up in my usual way.

 

msw1.JPG.ced4d60631b5053978473e21a0ef6406.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

msw2.JPG.9070042a0af091244e33c00b3e4a4173.JPG

 

 

 

 

Even caught a bit of evening sun in this one.

 

 

msw3.JPG.612ae28d07b2f0471e4ba8d8b8fa70d7.JPG

 

 

Ok, next project.

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16 Comments


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Those look very good and above all convincing, can you provide more detail on the roping and cleating, please

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The method used for the cleats is the same as last time Caledonian. 

 

 

It is a bit fiddly and makes painting the wagon a bit trickier, but seem to work . Some wagons had T shaped cleats, hmm, not sure how to do that . 

 

I also made up a simple jig to aid glueing the ties to the sheet. 

 

1443921100_sheetmakingjig.JPG.3030c19cd6f878ac4430e925f6c75777.JPG

 

 

Some good film there Compound. Flapping sheets ?  They would have to be incredibly thin to make that happen in model form. I did try printing to thin tissue paper, but it just turns to mush. 

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Do you have sheet ties at the corners? I think the usual (i.e. Midland*) arrangement was 16 eyelets along the perimeter (3 on each side plus the 4 corners) plus 3 on each side on flaps sewn into the first seam.

 

*but I'd expect there was an RCH standard.

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I thought about corner ones, but decided it was getting a bit too crowded round the jig. Might have a go next time. I did add the corner markings to the print though. Having folded them as recommended it dawned on me that the corner markings are there so that the sheet can be identified when folded up. 

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Always love your modelling on Kelvinbank ... very inspirational and gives the rest of us pause for thought....

 

Well done on the latest creations.


Rich

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Mikkel

Posted (edited)

They look good Dave, I like the weathering. On my own sheets I've started folding and bulging them a bit along the lower edges. Although on the prototype the edges are often quite straight, it doesn't always translate well when scaled down. It's probably harder to do on paper prints though (I stick mine to foil).

 

 

  

Edited by Mikkel
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What brand of paper do you use?  Do you have concerns that the ink will fade in time?

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The paper is labelled "photo paper direct" and has a code SKU PPD - 54. It isn't as good as real epson photo paper, but that is thicker and not so good for sheets .

 

I used Ghiant matte sealer as a coating. 

 

Will it fade? I have no idea really, time will tell. There comes a point where the question becomes " will it fade before I do ? " 

 

Seriously though , if it does fade it might look realistically faded , or it might look horrible. If it's the latter I just hit print and fit a new one . 

 

 

 

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I didn’t know you could get a fixer that prevents/reduces UV caused fading.  Thanks 

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I researched fading and sealers when I made the backscene. The  Ghiant matte sealer was well reviewed so I bought some and used it for that. Time will tell but so far there is no fading, which did happen with Kelvinbank 1. 

The room has blinds on the windows, I am careful to close them when I'm not in there. Light still gets in, but it stops the harshest levels of evening sunlight. 

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13 hours ago, Dave John said:

...............................

The room has blinds on the windows, I am careful to close them when I'm not in there. Light still gets in, but it stops the harshest levels of evening sunlight. 

Fluorescent lights can emit a lot of UV.  I believe that LEDs are much better in this respect.

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This is very inspiring stuff, Dave. I've only just come across your blog, but am very pleased that I have! 

 

All the best,


Nick.

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Dave, these sheets look great.

Would you be willing to make your Sketchbook file available?
What did you use for the ropes - they look about right for 4mm scale

Jim P

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Hi Jim, I'm happy for anyone to have a copy. I would put them on the CRA forum, but the file size is over the limit there. 

 

So if anyone does want them pm me on here or the cra forum with an email addy and I'll send a copy. 

 

The rope is this stuff;

 

https://www.modelscenerysupplies.co.uk/brands/EZ-Line/EZ-Line-Rope

 

Fine size.

 

A few places stock it so thats just an example. Since its elastic make the loops short and stretch them over the cleats to look like a taut rope. 

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I've noticed that the British Asparagus in Tesco and Sainsbury's isn't bundled with 'rubber' bands as usual, but rather with  white/ beige elasticated cord. I haven't measured it, but to my eye, it looks as though it could be used for 4mm rope.

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