Barney - details
I've gradually been adding the remaining smaller details, which seems to take up a lot of time. This first photo shows those at the front end. The lamp on top of the smokebox was included as a "fold-up" job on the etch (similar to a typical 2mm axlebox). The handle is rather delicate and hasn't survived the process of soldering it together, but I don't think you can see it well anyway. I will make the lens using PVA glue after painting. The smokebox door handles are made from etched handrail knobs, while the smokebox hinge is made from some bits of scrap nickel silver. The "taps" beneath the smokebox are a bit over-scale, but this was as small as I could get them, again from bits of nickel silver (the handles are 0.2mm wire). The vacuum pipe is bent up from 0.5mm annealed copper wire as I couldn't get a sharp enough bend in the equivalent width of brass wire. Following Pete Wright's article in the 2mm Magazine (reprinted in the Loco Bits and Pieces booklet), I soldered on thin fuse wire collars at the top, and just used solder to represent the thicker iron section at the top. The coupling hook is a spare from a wagon etch as I forgot to include any on my etch for this loco. All of these bits were soldered on - easier said than done as they are rather fiddly!
The vacuum pipe at the rear of the tender is made in a similar manner, as seen below (apologies for the large water droplet on the side of the tender - this was taken after washing ready for painting). I must now make the missing vacuum pipes for all of my other stock! Here you can also see the tender handrails, made from 0.2mm nickel silver wire and etched handrail knobs. With these, solder is used to make them round.
This next photo shows two attempts at making some of the boiler pipework. The left-hand one was the first attempt, but was deemed far too big and I reduced the diameter of each of the bits. This is really getting into the realms of approximate representation! These are glued in place under the boiler using Araldite, as I figured I had zero chance whatsoever of soldering them on without the bits of the valve all coming loose.
You can see the pipework in place in this next photo, along with most of the remaining bits. The loco handrails are again made from 0.2mm nickel silver wire and etched handrail knobs. The main handrail is all one piece, with 9 knobs to fit at once. It is soldered where I could get at it from the inside, with the remaining knobs glued into their holes. The rather ugly but characteristic feed pipes on the firebox were made from brass wire with little fuse wire collars to try to represent the fittings at the top. The whistle was a brass turning made in the mini-drill using files and multiple attempts. One or two tries would probably have done it except it took me some time to realise that the reason it kept falling apart was that I was using brass tube rather than solid rod! The valves in the top of the dome are simply brass tube with the tops flared out using a drill bit. They were an absolute pig to solder on straight. In this view you can also see the sandbox lids. Presumably they were circular on the real thing but I had to cut away quite a lot of the rear to get them to fit against the smokebox. I'm not sure whether I etched the holes too far back or what.
At this point, the loco and tender are ready for the paint shop. I think I will apply a coat of primer and then see if there is any more filling work needed. More lamps are needed on the loco roof and tender, but I haven't etched one of the correct pattern - they should have both forward and backward lenses, I think, and the lamp iron slots on to the side rather than up inside. There is one glaring omission: the cab interior. I didn't include this on the etch (no idea why not), so I will have to cobble something together as it is pretty conspicuous. But I figure it will be better to fit this after painting anyway.
One more detail that I have made but will fit after painting is the tablet catcher to go on the cab side. The photo below shows one as etched and another one assembled, before cutting the rod to length. It's not a particularly accurate model, but again its small and will be blackened so will hopefully be good enough.
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