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CR Grampian corridor stock , part 4, bodies.

Dave John



A blog in several parts, due to photo size.


The kit is designed so that the body folds up from the floor in two halves jointed at the floor centreline, with quite large gaps to be filled with card. The corridor wall is then soldered in. I thought about this and decided it worried me. The sides fold inwards about 5 mm at cantrail height narrowing the aperture to get in and do the interior. I made coaches this way in the past and it was a real hassle getting in to add details and glaze the windows. That was with full compartment stock, I don’t know how folk manage to paint the corridor side.


So, a bit of lateral thinking.


Firstly the roof and ends. Some delicate forming of the roof section, then the support structure and ends. I worked off a board with it all clamped down to keep it square. Lighting is in place, lamps are central to the compartments. Note the little tabs soldered to the support structure at cantrail height. They line up with compartment partitions. A coat of white primer on the inside.









One of the features of these coaches was that the body sat on a set of rubber blocks. I haven’t quite gone that far, but here is the floor cut from 10 thou brass, studs to fix it to the frames and the corridor etch soldered in. Again, note the little tabs soldered to the floor.










I spent a fair time thinking about lighting. I tried latching reeds a long time ago, temperamental and delicate.So I needed a switch, but where to put it? The obvious answer was battery in one toilet and switch in the other, but how to operate the switch? It dawned on me, there are four small holes in the roof for the toilet tank fillers. Made from 1.5 mm tube, three dummies and one leading down to the switch. Just push a bit of wire down to turn the lights on and off.







So here it is on the frames. Plenty of access to fit the compartments and seating. Easy battery change.





And the next bit ... 


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Carrying on ... 


The sides have the floor section removed and the cantrail fold cut back to 2mm. small brass blocks at cantrail height and a 2mm brass bar at floor level to stiffen it up. Note the holes match up with those tabs.

A coat of primer on to seal it all.





Then the sides. I mentioned those tabs. Well, they are not brass, but tinplate. Cut from this kind of paper fastener, convenient 5 mm strips of 10 thou tinplate.





So with magnets in the holes in the side support bar and in the little blocks at cantrail height I can just attach and remove the sides as many times as I like.









Now I can well imagine folk thinking that all that is a lot of messing about. Why not just build the coach , then paint it and line it ? Well,  therein lies the problem. I am not good at painting and lining. So, for me being able to do that with the sides on the flat makes the chance of success a bit greater. If I make a mess it is just a side to strip, not a whole coach.


Ok, the next three……


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  • RMweb Gold

More magnet magic. Very clever. Can I ask what strength they are? I've been experimenting with magnets for other purposes, but got some that were way too powerful. I need to develop a better sense of what strengths work for what purposes.

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I’ve seen magnets for roof retention, indeed my Dapol 58xx is so fitted, and I’ve discussed using them to retain things like tool boxes and other stuff that would make painting a loco difficult, but making the sides removable is a very nice idea.  I hate building coaches, and I’m sure this would make it much easier.  Nice one!



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Hi Mikkel. 


The cantrail ones are 2mm dia x 2mm long,  0.13 kg pull. The floor ones are 1mm dia x 2mm long,  0.03 kg pull. 


I had a mess about a bit with various sizes on a dummy side. The force increases significantly if it is magnet to magnet ( maybe doubles ? ) 


I have found that if you want to reduce the pull the simple trick is to separate the magnet and the keeper.  For instance if you glue a bit of styrene onto the tinplate surface the force needed to pull the magnet off is reduced. Magnets have a very shiny surface, difficult to glue them directly to things, hence the supporting brass.



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15 hours ago, Dave John said:

Cut from this kind of paper fastener

With me, the boot was on the other foot:  the paper fastener inflicted cuts whilst I was trying to un-file papers - I never imagined it might have another, more useful, use.  These carriages will make up into a marvellous train and I'm already looking forward to watching them leave the station and traverse the viaduct, lighting and all!


Kit PW

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Yep, they can be a bit sharp KitPW.


Advantage is that they solder very easily. I did learn that once soldered and cleaned up it helps to slap a bit of varnish on them, the cut edges rust very rapidly with subsequent washings of the body. 

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  • RMweb Gold

Many thanks Dave, that's very useful info. And thanks for making the drawings!

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