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Stepping Up A Level




Phase 2 of Northumberton involves the track bed up as far as the entrance to the station level (Phase 3). I have already cut the track bed - (see entry "Frames complete - now the track bed). I use an extended 1m straight edge/rule to measure track height from the frame work which was levelled in the early stages.

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I'm rising from 1005mm to 1105mm above floor level. I was able to take the levels where track crossed the frame work from the SCARM software I'm using, (see entry "Backscene")



Sections of ply and softwood have been cut to raise the track bed to the correct height. Pine battens for mid way supports and plywood profiles where the route is a bit more tricky.





This does take a long time, I'm also using a great little spirit level that I have which has a digital readout  including one for gradient percentages which made checking the track bed much more straightforward.


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I'm still using metal washers on the outside edge of curves to induce a very slight camber, especially on the tighter hidden curves. Also I'm allowing plenty of room for long coaches on tight hidden curves by cutting away the curved section shown below in the support for the upper track.

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My trusty glue spreader from Amazon filled with Woodland Scenics foam glue, this spreader works so well and as I'm also using DCC concepts Power Base I have a lot of gluing to do. I split all the track bed in two down the middle to ease installation. I coat the track bed and the foam underlay separately, leave for about an hour and then lay the underlay following the centre lines shown. This method means no pins required or additional drying time, just make sure you place it very carefully as once its down its down! Same method for laying the Power Base, coat the foam track bed and the metal plates. to hold the metal plates whilst applying glue I use double sided tape in strips on an old board, place the plates in place on the tape and then go over with the glue roller. After an hour the plates are lifted off the tape and placed onto the foam - again an extremely strong bond is achieved.







I'll carry on now until Phase 2 has all it's track down and has been tested. Just trying out the new Peco twist lock point motors with the switch attachment, so far so good, certainly fitting the motor is easier but the wiring of the accessory switch does not look clear to me, I'm using it to change frog polarity, has anyone used these? Which terminal on the switch goes to the frog?


Cheers for now, P.S. no prizes for spotting the glass of wine, it was very late in the day :)


Note: Peco Twist Lock motors, fitted one and then decided to test it. I'm using a Lenz LS150 which is designed for solenoid motors and indeed runs my Peco PL10E's perfectly. The Twist Lock motor switched once and then stopped, I tried a few times to get it going, it only worked intermittently but not at all with the micro switch fitted. Fortunately I carried out the test before fitting it to the layout as I had purchased 6 of these from Hatton's. A bit of research later found others had also been having some issues with these. Luckily for me Hatton's agreed to refund me for the motors including the one I opened to carry out the test, many thanks to them. Back to PL10E's for me, I'm sure the twist lock motors must work OK with other power supplies/switches but did not like my Lenz LS150. I am not so sure about the micro switches, there does not seem to be enough throw for them to function reliably IMHO.



Edited by Wizardtrains

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I have several of these all work perfectly ,if the pin catches the hole the micro switche may not throw, open the hole out works a treat . Just ordered 3 more .



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Mine are not fitted to the board, it's not working sat in my hand, do you have Lenz LS150 also? It does buzz and works ocassionally but obviously that's not good enough. Glad you're having more success. 

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