Jump to content
 

Lima LMS Guv upgrade...or The Path Well Trod

westernviscount

Entry posted by westernviscount in Improving RTR

907 views

 Share

Below are some of the improvements I have attempted on the Lima LMS GUV/CCT. The coach was a chance find item in a chance find model shop on a day trip to Gravesend. 

 

The model was in "as new" condition before an inital brake fluid bath to remove the paint. The fluid did not manage to shift everything but as I intended to file and sand away alot of tge beading detail I felt removol of the lettering and numbers would be enough. 

 

Detail was scraped away with a brand new chisel blade. Preaching to the converted I know, but a sharp chisel blade must be used for good results but more importantly to avoid injury!

 

I removed alot of the beading to match a vehicle photograph by Paul Bartlett in 1968 https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/lmsparcels/h157ec466

 

Additional beading was added to match the photo. 

20210831_172116.jpg.a6dfc281261a462b3936116a3c53a3fe.jpg

 

 

All the chisselling and sanded was made harder by detail I wanted to keep like hinges and doors bumpers. I decided to just go for it and replace later with door furniture made of comet brass hinges I had in the stores, brass .45 wire for door bumpers and .33 wire for hand grabs and handles. 

 

Lanarkshire buffers, hooks and torpedo vents were also added. At this stage the the chasis was untouched and I looked around for ideas on how this could be improved. 

20210903_224736.jpg.944d8c27b16c8e0f886e3ef94f850d57.jpg

 

I came across a thread by @brossardabout the upgrade of this coach and decided to essentially copy his method. The most obvious fault with the lima model are the bogies, using BR1 type bogies, not the LMS 9ft bogies.

 

Bogies are in the process of being built and I have opted for the comet welded type as there is a picture of a vehicle fromt he same lot as mine with the welded type.   

 

I have never scratchbuilt anything in brass so decided to tool up with a piercing saw and .41mm brass sheet to build the truss work underneath. The reason for the amount of work is that the battery box side is a little crude and the trussing is more exposed on the real thing. LMS v hangers, dynamo, vac cylinders, lighting regulator and battery box were used from the comet range. 

20210917_223507.jpg.d5cbb428297798c9ef58c70e8cf579b3.jpg

 

20210917_221538.jpg.c01c9abd385fc5e34617346ef38be026.jpg

 

20210912_170905.jpg.0ce4e4bef93eb1a1abe579ae736fb2fb.jpg

 

I mounted the vac cyinders so they hang too low but at this stage I felt the butchery required to correct them would be too much. The truss work is cut with a piercing saw and made use, like @brossard of the tatlow book on NPCS vehicles. 

20210917_201436.jpg.49a7a8171e78a69e26adfd53a571e1fb.jpg

 

The side trusses were made with 1mm brass L angle and .41mm brass sheet cut witht he saw. 

 

20210917_221456.jpg.789724228c3e26589ca588b802344153.jpg

 

I hope so far that this account shows how modellers influence and inspire the work of others. I have done nothing original here but have enjoyed my first efforts using brass to scratch build with. 

 

I hope to get further along with the project this weekend! 

Edited by westernviscount
Images restored

  • Like 13
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
 Share

7 Comments

Recommended Comments

  • RMweb Gold
Mikkel
  • RMweb Gold

Lovely detailing work. Those trusses in particular make a big difference, I think.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Waveydavey

Very nice job you've done there. What size strip have you used on the bodysides? Is it 10x20 thou?

 

I have one of these tucked away in the project box and I think I've come to the conclusion that a shortened Comet 50' underframe will be the way forward.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
westernviscount
1 hour ago, Waveydavey said:

Very nice job you've done there. What size strip have you used on the bodysides? Is it 10x20 thou?

 

I have one of these tucked away in the project box and I think I've come to the conclusion that a shortened Comet 50' underframe will be the way forward.

 

I actually used the vernier calipers to measure the existing body side strips (.75mm) then used .25mm (sorry for metric;-)) plastikard sheet, using the calipers to mark the cut line.

 

I have always been put off by the price of evergreen packs and although cruder, i prefer making my own. Any narrower then I am sure strip is the way foward. 

 

A brass chassis to solder the bits and bobs to would work nicely I'd say. 

Link to comment
brossard

Yes Evergreen is pretty pricey but extremely useful IMO.  I have a large collection of the stuff, really invaluable.

 

You could of course make a brass chassis but it would be hard work.  It occurs to me that you could try a Comet chassis pack and modify it.  I have scratchbuilt chassis (eg Hornby Palethropes Sausage van) but in plastic card, which is much easier to work. 

 

John

 

 

Edited by brossard
  • Like 1
Link to comment
SteveyDee68

From the comments it would seem you have clearly shown how you went about upgrading the Lima GUV/CCT but the RMWeb Server Disaster has left your blog entries without images! Is there any possibility that you might restore them through your blog entries, please? (I have no idea if that is possible on blogs - sorting out missing images on threads is difficult enough!)

 

Steve S

Link to comment
westernviscount
1 hour ago, SteveyDee68 said:

From the comments it would seem you have clearly shown how you went about upgrading the Lima GUV/CCT but the RMWeb Server Disaster has left your blog entries without images! Is there any possibility that you might restore them through your blog entries, please? (I have no idea if that is possible on blogs - sorting out missing images on threads is difficult enough!)

 

Steve S

Hi Steve. I had abandoned the blog as a result of the image loss but I have given it a go and restored the images relating to the LMS CCT across the 3 entries. 

I doubt I will restore all images across the blog but as you showed interest I am happy to help.

Edited by westernviscount
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...