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J39 - progress

Fen End Pit

Entry posted by Fen End Pit

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One of the things about writing a blog, as opposed to an article for a magazine, is that you tend to write as you model and put up pictures of 'work in progress'. As such it is probably common to publish something, possibly making it sound like 'the solution' only to then change it a few days later!

 

It has been like this with the drive for this loco. The gearbox ran very smoothly, but my attempts to get a decent drive from the tender located motor caused no end of problems. I tried putting in a spur gear drive to increase the gear ratio and also allow me to put the get the drive low in the tender without having to cut large holes in the tender chassis to fit the motor low down. Ultimately this didn't work because the spur gears were way to noisy and made the overall speed too slow.

 

In the end I rebuild the chassis with a plate soldered between the frames to mount the motor as low as I could. The result is much better and also should give space for a flywheel on the other end of the shaft.

 

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The (thankfully) cosmetic valve gear is now coming on and really fills the gap under the boiler nicely.

 

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I've also started making some changes to the body. The tender coal has been repositioned and the rear cab footsteps have gone. I've also taken quite a bit off the boiler bands which were rather over emphasized. The eagle-eyed amongst you will notice we have a BR liveried loco with an LNER tender. The planned repaint will sort that out later.

 

David

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3 Comments

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Horsetan

I like this! The trouble with inside valve gear is that it all looks like it could be made to work. Indeed, Bradwell's J27 kit virtually invites you to have a go, using the cosmetic parts as a basis - can anyone knock up a set of inside cranks?

 

Exactoscale spurs shouldn't normally be so noisy, though I note from previous magazine articles that they do polarise opinions; some people get on perfectly well with them, whilst others find them very difficult to use. Which one did you experiment with? The previous photos suggest a 1:1:2 which I seem to recall was the one Chris Pendlenton tried in his A1 before Brimalm came out with a quieter equivalent (might still be available - check the Brimalm website). If you really wanted to take things a bit further in the friction-reducing stakes, then there are always miniature ballraces......

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Horsetan
Cranks are easy, it's the eccentrics that might be somewhat trickier.....

 

Would you able to do a set of J27 cranks for 4mm scale? wink.gif

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