43179's workbench

Hello Jon

 

Im really happy that you like the track. Im even happier that you got a sample and tried it with great results by the looks of it.

 

It was nice to meet yesterday.

 

Missy

 

PS: If you are on about changing wheels and couplings there is really no reason why you couldnt convert to 2mm FS is there!

Hiya Jon,

That Easitrac looks very good. One thing that struck me while looking at the 2mmSA site is that it seems expensive compared to Peco track. Now I know it looks a million times better, and the outlay is going to be worth it, but from a tight budget point of view, how does it compare?It looks so good that it tempts me a bit more each time I see pictures of it

 

jo

 

 

I think the price depends on how you buy the rail - it seems more economical to buy the roll of rail instead of buying it in lenths - as a result your not forced into having lots of track joints, therefore better running , more reliability , and less wiring to do - that , to me, is worth any price!

A million times better - yes - in all honesty, now ive tried a little bit , it really is that good! Buy a sample , you'll be converted

You've probably seen this already but grahame has put up an article about his experiments with Easitrac in conjunction with Easitrac point bases relaid to 9mm gauge.

It seems many of us N-Gaugers are all ploughing the same furrow- lingering around the 2mm Association stand at shows- envying their lovely trackwork, but at the same time unable to find the time or money to convert dozens of locos and stock to finescale to build a decent sized layout single handed.

We desperately need a decent N Gauge code 40 trackage system. I have been toying with converting to Finescale but only being able to build a tiny layout with one loco and a railcar- or building handlaid track using the Canadian FastTracks Fixture system and ending up with finescale N Gauge track- but with American sleeper spacings and flat bottom rail. Arggh!

 

grahame seems to have found a good compromise.

I'd like to get hold of a sample of Easitrack. To show how good it is, have a look at SPADs blog. His scenic section looks superb, especially with the latest Farish & Dapol DMU models.

I also picked up a section of easitrac at the AP and am surprised at how delicate it is.

In fact, even though I prepared the rail ends as described and the rail went through the chairs quite easily, I still ended up with slight kinks and a bit of vertical lift.

I don't think I am especially heavy-handed, but clearly you need to be very gentle with this stuff.

In a way, i think it is a pity that the sleepers are not a tad thicker - 0.37mm doesn't leave much for ballasting without a cork riser or summat - and it would make it a bit more robust? Working in such small scales does need a compromise sometimes.

Code 55 by comparison is 1.75mm or thereabouts.

You can't deny that easitrac does look good - that extra .42 makes a difference.

Then you come onto point building...

I have matched the easitrac with a code 55 point, and the differences are huge. Filing away the rail ends as has been suggested and raising the easitrac would seem to render its use pointless, if you'll excuse the pun!

Grahame's idea of regauging to 9mm is a good one, but what wheels would traverse the points without modification - the stumbling block for many of us?

That Easitrac looks very good. One thing that struck me while looking at the 2mmSA site is that it seems expensive compared to Peco track. Now I know it looks a million times better, and the outlay is going to be worth it, but from a tight budget point of view, how does it compare?It looks so good that it tempts me a bit more each time I see pictures of it

 

If you could get suitable gauges you could always use the 2FS components used for copperclad based track but build to a gauge of 9mm. I csn't see any reason why it would work - you'd get a choice of wood and concrete sleepers and a choice of BH or FB rail. It's not too expensive either, just requires time.