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Atlantic gains a tender

hayfield

Entry posted by hayfield

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With the cast part of the chassis unglued, the first (cast) part now fits flush with the footplate when glued to the main part of the chassis. With no cylinders it still looks a bit high, but it now matches up with the tender buffer height as well as other locos buffer heights

 

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The 4 sides of the tender have been stuck together and I have just used Milliput to fill the gaps and rebuild a broken corner of the sides. Hopefully I will not make as many mistakes on this part of the build

 

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These are the parts of the cylinders, the front parts of the cylinders have been stuck to the chassis block. This was the easy part as it was only in 2 bits. The rear one which is in 3 bits will take a bit more effort in gluing to the block in lineing them up.

 

Recently I have not had much spare time to model, however when driving to and from work and other spare moments I have been able to think about the problems and come up with a solution. Much better than thinking on your feet with the items in front of you.

 

Nice to have a session that has all gone well, normally its 2 steps forward and one back.

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hayfield

Thanks, but I am a bit fearfull what it will look like with a coat of primer on. This may be the first loco I weather.

 

I do not know what was used to strip the paint off,if it was done by my friend who gave me the model it would have been caustic soda. Whatever it was you can see the tarnish on the tender which has not been cleaned and burnished. But seeing his models he would never had butchered the castings.

 

The tender wheels are quite a tight fit (limited side ways movement), I will pack out the front and rear ones but the centre ones will have to have some side play. I will have to put some insulating tape on the body where they might rub. That also goes for the bogie wheels touching the chassis and the rear trailing wheels.

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hayfield

My camera batteries are on charge so no photos tonight.

 

The Milliput worked very well both as a gap filler and to replace the top curved corner which had been broken off. 1st try on the corner is nearly there, but the outside curve was a little to round. I sanded it to shape and after testing a couple of methods of replicating the coal rail slits, built it up a bit more.

 

I ran out of quick set epoxy last night, so I called in at B&Q and brought some quick set metal epoxy. Its a lot thicker than standard epoxy, so could be used as a gap filler. It states on the box that it can be drilled, sanded, tapped and painted.

 

I have tried it out on repairing the cylinders, glueing a bolt to whitemetal and made a blob to try out the claims on the box. Will have to go back and buy some normal epoxy in the next day or so.

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