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Brewhouse Quay: Wiring fun

Chris Nevard




K_point_wiring_01, originally uploaded by nevardmedia.


Brewhouse Quay update.....The materials have arrived, so I'm looking at the most complex bit of track well in advance to plan the wiring and where isolating breaks will need to be cut into the rails and how power will be fed to various sections. Slitting the sections will probably be easier after laying due to the fine nature of code 55.


Point operation will be via manual miniature yard levers as in Nigel Burkin's feature in the April 2010 edition of Model Rail. Polarity switching will be under the baseboard, again as per Nigel's feature.


Whilst I'm not new to building my own track, I've never been bold enough to try something like this. Construction doesn't bother me, but the wiring does as little, so any thoughts from people that find this aspect interesting feel free to feed back.I've uploaded the multi-layered Photoshop PSD file here to allow the blue isolating section bits to be added or hidden should anyone want to illustrate any ideas - credit due course the final write up goes without saying! I need to consider check rails too not shown here.



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Hi Chris,

Here's one I've done in P4 for Watkin's Wharf. Fully check-railed and joggled inside and out. I think your gaps are OK*. I wouldn't have considered doing one of these if it hadn't already been done by that boundary-pusher extraordinaire - Iain Rice. He describes the wiring of this fomation in his Wild Swan book "An Approach to Building Finescale Track". Which is still in print. Here's a closer look at my attempt at the crossing. If you need any help, feel free.


Cheers (and good luck)




*EDIT. I've looked at the wiring diagram Iain has included and (for wiring the diamond through the points) you don't need a break in the outer curved rail. PM me if you need anything.

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Hi Jan,


Thank you for taking time to post this, it's pretty well what I'm building too. I've started to lay the copper clad as from this afternoon. The scary bit is still a little way off :wacko:

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Be careful with the copperclad with a lot of rails close together there will be a lot of gaps. Probably best to get this running through by hand before gapping as some of the short bits might come adrift if you're trying to make adjustments.


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Firstly Chris may I say your work is stunning!


Here is one in SM/32 yet to be gapped. As I see it the top frogs of the diamond and points can be treated as one piece to be switched. The bottom frog of the diamond does not require isolation or switching.




Merry Cristmas

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Guest jim s-w


Hi Chris


I would interlock the points and wire as follows.


Point motor 1 switches the green sections. Point motor 2 switches the blue sections (wired the opposite way round.







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Thank you again for more much needed wiring advice!

Signaller - I love that pointcrossingthingamyjig- quality work!


Jim, many thanks for the diagram - nice and clear and perfect for someone with a wiring phobia.


Rail-wise I've made start with some of the plain sections, with code 55 (C&L version for 4mm) looking spot on for my needs.

I'm pre applying a smear of solder to the sleeper tops and then sweating the pre C&L Red Flux'd rail on top thus avoiding any blobs

on the rail sides. I'll post some snaps later.




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