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2mm Gearboxes - First Attempt


-missy-

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Hello :)

 

Ever since I posted in a past blog entry about a possible new gearbox I have been working on I have had quite a few people asking me about it as they are very interested which gave me the incentive to get it done. The idea I had was to get one together and take it to the St Albans show (which I really enjoyed btw) so people could see it finished. Unfortunately things didnt work out how I would have liked so I didnt get round to finishing it...UNTIL TODAY!

 

OK, for those of you who dont know this is my first attempt at making a 'universal' gearbox that I could use on different engines, it came about as I was drawing up an engine for chassis for etching and I thought to myself "I could make this removeable and use it on other engines". It comprises of an etched frame, the new motor from the 2mmSA shop (3-257), and gears from my favorite gear supplier Mikroantriebe (https://www.shop.kkpmo.com/). Amazingly I have managed to get an impressive 128:1 ratio which would suit a shunting engine a treat! The drawing below shows the dimensions of the gearbox...

 

blogentry-2065-0-47041400-1326736027_thumb.jpg

 

It uses all plastic gears so it is a bit on the quiet side, and if put together well it runs very smoothly (and slowly!). The motor is double ended so there is also the possibility of fitting a flywheel if I wanted to(and if there is room!). Here are a couple of photos of my first attempt at building one...

 

blogentry-2065-0-75891100-1326736024_thumb.jpg

 

blogentry-2065-0-33177200-1326736026_thumb.jpg

 

Of course there is a down side, because of the gears I used to get the ratio it unfortunately means the wheel axle can only be upto 1.5mm in diameter which therefore means I will have to use a solid wheel axle and insulate the wheels with a plastic bush but I feel thats a small price to pay for something like this.

 

Its my first attempt so I would love to hear any thoughts or comments on this...

 

Missy :)

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You've certainly had a productive day - that looks fab! I think that gearbox would work a treat in the Peckett with those Mike Bryant plastic-centred wheels (which have 1.5mm axle holes.....)

 

Andy

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That looks very neat Missy.

 

Unfortunately, knowing nothing about chassis construction, gears et al, I can only offer congratulations on you completing it rather than technical comments...but well done all the same, as it must feel very rewarding.

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Top stuff, as always, you never cease to amaze me with what you do with all these fiddly little things ;)

 

Thanks for the link to Mikroantriebe, that's bookmarked for future reference, there's loads of things on there that will be useful for future projects. That motor looks rather useful too!

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Most impressive piece of work.

 

You need another photograph with the obligatory small coin, to show just how small it is. Your photographs make it look far too big (and still show no obvious defects, even under such cruel enlargement).

 

It was great to see it at St Albans yesterday (and to talk to you on a wide variety of other topics).

 

David

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That looks very neat. As ever, your skill and will serve you well. I take it the PCB cheeks are soldered onto the motor mounting plate, and the gears a push fit on the axles ( a la High Level) ?

 

Cheers

 

Jan

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Julia,

 

That looks absolutely fantastic. Puts the gear box I was making for my GWR Metro Tank to shame.

GearBox

 

I must have a look at those gears by Mikroantriebe.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Ian

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Hello :)

 

Thanks for the comments so far folks, it sounds promising so far which is good.

 

Julia this looks really good are you planning on marketing this ?Nigel

 

Hello Nigel, I guess if enough people ask for one then I cannot see why not. As I mentioned in the post it was designed for a particular engine (a peckett) but I tweaked it so I could use it on other projects so there is no reason why it couldnt be used on anything really.

 

impressive as always wonder if it would fit in a ford railcar ?

 

Hello Nick. A what? I havent a clue what that is let alone if it would fit! I have posted the dimensions so you could try it out for yourself.:)

 

Top stuff, as always, you never cease to amaze me with what you do with all these fiddly little things ;)Thanks for the link to Mikroantriebe, that's bookmarked for future reference, there's loads of things on there that will be useful for future projects. That motor looks rather useful too!

 

Hello Pugsley, thank you. That is a useful little company and although they are in Poland I havent had any trouble with them at all so I would recomend them to anyone. They have some very useful little bits.

 

Most impressive piece of work.You need another photograph with the obligatory small coin, to show just how small it is. Your photographs make it look far too big (and still show no obvious defects, even under such cruel enlargement).

 

Hello David, that is a good point and something I forgot to do this time. Hopefully the dimensions will help.

 

That looks very neat. As ever, your skill and will serve you well. I take it the PCB cheeks are soldered onto the motor mounting plate, and the gears a push fit on the axles ( a la High Level) ?CheersJan

 

Hi Jan. Yes, the PCB is soldered to the side of the etch frame its there to insulate the gearbox electrically from the sideframes. The gears also push onto the axles as you say. I dont understand why the 4 and 7mm peeps get all the gearboxes and the 2mm folk dont so I am trying to fix that!

 

M. :)

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Was good to meet you at the week end and discuss several bits n pieces with you.

 

The gearbox looks fantastic - Can't wait to see your future developments! x

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Wow... I think I have calibrated my brain to 'properly small' to get around the size of what we are looking at... small enough for 2MM FS narrow gauge applications?

 

Or would that need this gearbox's 'little brother'?

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Nick Bastable wondered if it would fit in a Ford railcar, to which Missy responded "What's that?".

Possibly he meant one of Colonel Stevens' innovations - see http://www.colonelstephenssociety.co.uk/Modelling%20Railcars.html

 

[A more challenging project would be to use it to make a 2mm model of Gazelle, used on Colonel Stevens' Shrewsbury and Montgomery Railway - see a photo at 1978 - "Gazelle" at the NRM, York ]

 

Pugsley commented "That motor looks rather useful too!".

I think it's the latest addition to the range available from the 2mm Association - it has had some very favourable comments (another good reason to join...)

 

David

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Out of interest what is the benefit of the 2mm motor over the almost identically sized Mashima 1015?

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Katier asked "What is the benefit of the 2mm motor over the almost identically sized Mashima 1015?"

 

According to the statistics in the 2mm Yearbook:

4mm - namely the height is 8mm against 12mm

Power - 0.9w against 0.35w

Additionally it's available from the 2mm shop, which represents "one stop shopping" for members, rather than Branchlines. Not sure of the Mashima price (I've seen £10-75 quoted from 2008) but the Association motor is competitive at £10, specially if you are shopping there anyway.

 

Against that, the 2mm motor is faster, 20,000 rpm at no load against 14,800 rpm, so may require higher gearing (but 128:1 should be sufficient...). Also the 2mm motor has a 1mm driveshaft instead of the usual 1.5mm, so may needs an adaptor (available from Nigel Lawton at £1 each, plus £2 p&p).

 

David

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Interestingly (and apologies to Julia for going off-thread rather here), the Association motor appears to be very similar to that fitted to the Farish Cl.03, 04 and 14 shunters. The main difference is that the 2mm SA motor has a shaft at each end (the Farish motor is single-ended). I can't comment on performance because I don't have the necessary measuring gizmos, but I'd be surprised if they were vastly different.

 

Andy

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Quite a clever design in that you've folded a flat plate into a gear case. Is there the possibility of making a smaller version with the Lawton motor and 'rolling' the gears so it's not quite as tall? You've sold one if you can!

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You've certainly had a productive day - that looks fab! I think that gearbox would work a treat in the Peckett with those Mike Bryant plastic-centred wheels (which have 1.5mm axle holes.....)Andy

 

Just brilliant Julia, inspirational stuff. I have some of those Mike Bryant wheels. When can I have one of these gearboxes?!!

This gearbox would open the door to all sorts of small prototypes, like Nick I fancy one of the Colenel's Ford railbuses, perfect for the North Somerset Light.

 

Jerry

 

ps. can we have the answers to the tree quiz please :no:

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Brilliant as usual Missy. I know you are not in the least put off by needing to have and insulated driving wheels but for us normal mortals it could be an issue. Now if you could find a way of changing the last gear for one mounted on a Muff so that it would accept the normal association wheels..... There would be the problem of making the gear and what you would do about bearings. I am thinking if you could get gears to match one of our muffs with a gear on and fit a short length of metal tube over the ends of the muff. This could then run in suitable bearings ( or plain holes) in the gearbox.

Don

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Was good to meet you at the week end and discuss several bits n pieces with you.The gearbox looks fantastic - Can't wait to see your future developments! x

 

Likewise Josh. Im looking forward to seeing some of your 2mmFS stuff here on RMWeb soon....

 

... small enough for 2MM FS narrow gauge applications?Or would that need this gearbox's 'little brother'?

 

Hiya Will. That gearbox wont really fit, the motor is far too big for starters. I have been looking into chassis for NG engines a little more recently and it is possible using a small motor like Nigel Lawtons. You and me need to talk....!

 

I need to learn to make chassis in order to make myself a pug!

 

The best way to learn is to have a go. Practice definately makes perfect!

 

Out of interest what is the benefit of the 2mm motor over the almost identically sized Mashima 1015?

 

Hello Katier. I dont know so thanks to David for replying to this for me. Do you know something I dont?

 

Dissapointed..... can't believe you haven't cut your own gears......(!)

 

If I had the tools I would!

 

I think that gearbox would work a treat in the Peckett with those Mike Bryant plastic-centred wheels (which have 1.5mm axle holes.....)Andy

 

Thank you Andy :) If I could find some of those wheels! Mission Impossible!!

 

Quite a clever design in that you've folded a flat plate into a gear case. Is there the possibility of making a smaller version with the Lawton motor and 'rolling' the gears so it's not quite as tall? You've sold one if you can!

 

Hello Mr Nth. Thank you, the design is nothing new or special, the 4 and 7mm peeps have been using this design for ages. As I mentioned above I have been looking at making something smaller to fit some NG engines on my drawing board. Im not sure what you mean by 'rolling' the gears though, do you mean rotating them slightly? FYI I originally designed this chassis to fit a 2mm scale Peckett 0-4-0 engine which is not that different from the one you are looking to make.

 

Just brilliant Julia, inspirational stuff. I have some of those Mike Bryant wheels. When can I have one of these gearboxes?!!This gearbox would open the door to all sorts of small prototypes, like Nick I fancy one of the Colenel's Ford railbuses, perfect for the North Somerset Light.Jerryps. can we have the answers to the tree quiz please :no:

 

Thanks Jerry. Thats rather ironic really! You have the wheels but no chassis and I have a chassis but no wheels! When would you like one of these then? I would love to see how you get on with one. As you say it could open up a few possibilities for the smaller engines. As for the answers to the trees I did post them on the last entry but just for you here they are again...

 

1. Silver Birch

2. Cedar of Lebanon

3. Scots Pine

4. English Oak

5. Hawthorn

 

From the replies I got I think I need to practice tree making a bit more...!

 

M. :)

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Hello Don.

 

Brilliant as usual Missy. I know you are not in the least put off by needing to have and insulated driving wheels but for us normal mortals it could be an issue. Now if you could find a way of changing the last gear for one mounted on a Muff so that it would accept the normal association wheels..... There would be the problem of making the gear and what you would do about bearings. I am thinking if you could get gears to match one of our muffs with a gear on and fit a short length of metal tube over the ends of the muff. This could then run in suitable bearings ( or plain holes) in the gearbox.Don

 

Its a good point and one that I didnt realise until it came to assemble it. The meshing centres of the gears I used didnt take into consideration the diameter of the wheel axle muff. The gear I selected was chosen as it could fit over one of the smaller muffs the 2mmSA do (the 2.3mm diameter one). Its not difficult to tweak the gearbox it would fit but it will mean either loosing some of the reduction or gaining some height. The gearbox as it stands will work and as you say, with a little bit of tweaking to the wheels it would be possible to get a working chassis using one. The question now is do I spend time redesigning the gearbox with the view to make it easy for others or do I stick with what I have got because it does what I want it to do!?!

 

Selfish I know...

 

M.

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The gearbox as it stands will work and as you say, with a little bit of tweaking to the wheels it would be possible to get a working chassis using one. The question now is do I spend time redesigning the gearbox with the view to make it easy for others or do I stick with what I have got because it does what I want it to do!?!Selfish I know...M.

 

If i was you I would build the gearbox you have into a loco to give it a good testing you may decide that something needs refining. In the process you will learn whether having non standard wheels is an issue or whether changing the gearbox would be simpler. My feelings are that with bushing the wheels for insulation at the axle there is a greater risk of eccentricity/ wobble however I am not a skilled machinist.

Don

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