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2mmFS GearBox (for Open Cabbed GWR Metro Tank)


Ian Smith

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Work has begun in earnest on the GWR Small Metro Tank that I wanted to build, some of you may already have seen the little gearbox that I had built for the project in a reply I had posted in Missy's blog http://www.rmweb.co....-2mm-finescale/.

 

Well as the chassis was being built I decided that the gearbox already built was a little too large and would encroach into the cab space (the model I am attempting to make will be an open cabbed Metro Tank to suit my preferred modelling period of c1905). So a rummage in my parts box yielded an even smaller worm/gear combo (38:1 I think) than the one used previously.

 

The first stage was to sweat together the worm gear to a spur gear that would drive onto a further gear on the driven axle, then the sides and ends of the gearbox were "fettled" from some phosphor bronze sheet (actually the material sold by the 2mmFS Association for chassis sideframes), the shape of these parts can be seen in the photos below.

 

Given my inability to accurately mark out and drill the holes for the worm driveshaft and the gear layshaft acurately, I do what I always do and drill the hole for the layshaft, and file out a slot for the worm driveshaft - the driveshaft will eventually ride in small phosphor bronze bushes that are soldered in place, as this allows the driveshaft to be manipulated to the correct mesh. Note that since the gearbox is built in two halves accuracy in drilling the layshaft holes is not that important as the holes willl be aligned by the layshaft later. Each half of the gearbox is folded and the joint strengthened with solder, hopefully the photo will illustrate this far better than any words would be able to.

 

blogentry-12089-0-38211500-1327570574_thumb.jpg

 

Assembly is simply the 2 halves of the gearbox soldered together with the gears on the layshaft sandwiched between, the worm is super-glued onto the driveshaft which then has the bushings fitted either end of the worm and that assembly too is soldered into place (I put a drop of oil on the driveshaft between the worm and the bushing just to make sure the I don't solder the whole thing solid :nono: ).

 

blogentry-12089-0-53067000-1327570590_thumb.jpg

 

Once the whole is complete and seems to run without binding, any excess material is carefully filed off (making sure that no damage is inflicted on the worm or gears), the whole lot is washed thoroughly to remove any flux residue, and finally I blast brake cleaner through it to flush out any remaining bits of swarf. The last operation is to flood the thing with oil, and pop the driveshaft in a mini drill to give it a good run in.

 

In the lower photo the Metro Tank chassis can be seen, the spur gear on the layshaft will eventually engage with the gear on the rear drive axle. The final drive will be 38:1 from the worm then 22:12 giving about 70:1 overall.

 

Ian

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That's a great explanation Ian.

Are you scratch building the metro tank body?

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I have great admiration for this type of job, too small for my failing eyes I'm afraid. I think you need to be a watch maker to do this sort of job, that's why I will probably move up a scale rather than down!

 

This is what modelling is all about in my opinion, actually making stuff rather than opening boxes!

Another fine blog to keep an eye open for.

 

Cheers

Frank

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That's an impressive start - I look forward to reading news of further progress.

 

I know Richard Brummitt was recently debating what to produce etches for next, and the Metro Tank was one of the candidates, but I suspect he has settled on the Steam Rail Motor.

 

Which motor are you intending to use? 70:1 gearing looks quite high for a model with relatively large wheels, but if it's one of the high-revving Nigel Lawton ones, it's probably about right. Using the downloadable speed calculator by Richard Benn from http://www.festiveroad.net/rail/software.htm and entering 30,000 rpm (no load rating for the micromotor), 70:1 gear ratio, and 10.5mm wheels gives a maximum scale speed of 80 mph.

 

David

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Very nice Ian. How do you propose fixing so that it meshes with the drive wheel gear?

Don

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Hi Ian, good to see you at Leamington at the weekend. I am watching developments here with interest, wondering about how my experiments in 3D printing could be extended to motor/gearbox housings, that sort of thing.

 

Thank you for the close up photographs, this kind of work is something I fancy tackling eventually and this in depth coverage helps to de-mystify it.. a bit.!

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That's a great explanation Ian.Are you scratch building the metro tank body?

 

Kris, Yes the body will be scratch built, I made a start last night on the footplate.

 

That's an impressive start - I look forward to reading news of further progress.I know Richard Brummitt was recently debating what to produce etches for next, and the Metro Tank was one of the candidates, but I suspect he has settled on the Steam Rail Motor.Which motor are you intending to use? 70:1 gearing looks quite high for a model with relatively large wheels, but if it's one of the high-revving Nigel Lawton ones, it's probably about right. Using the downloadable speed calculator by Richard Benn from http://www.festivero...il/software.htm and entering 30,000 rpm (no load rating for the micromotor), 70:1 gear ratio, and 10.5mm wheels gives a maximum scale speed of 80 mph.David

 

David, I have bought one of Nigel Lawtons micro motors for the project, it will be mounted backwards down the boiler and smokebox (I will make these as a separate bolt on component to the rest of the body). Until I get the motor into the chassis and get the thing running I have no idea how fast it will go - This is all a bit of an experiment, and if it needs adjustment so be it :-)

 

Very nice Ian. How do you propose fixing so that it meshes with the drive wheel gear?Don

 

Don, My intention is to solder the gear box to one side of the chassis - it is narrow enough so that it won't bridge the gap to the other side so shorting shouldn't be a problem.

 

Thank you all for your words of encouragement.

 

Ian

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Lovely work there, Ian. You and Missy are certainly giving me a bit of faith that I can achieve what I'm planning. Waiting for tools to be delivered so just drooling over others work at the moment.

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I have a Metro tank part built. The wheels got removed from the rolling chassis to build something else and the body has the footplate, tanks, boiler, and cab in place. It was at this point I realised I had been working off two different drawings and had short tanks with a later high cab. I was intending to make one with large tanks. If it's any good to you I can pop it in the post.

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I have a Metro tank part built. The wheels got removed from the rolling chassis to build something else and the body has the footplate, tanks, boiler, and cab in place. It was at this point I realised I had been working off two different drawings and had short tanks with a later high cab. I was intending to make one with large tanks. If it's any good to you I can pop it in the post.

 

Rich,

Thankyou, I might take you up on that. My preference is for the small tank version as I always thought they look much prettier :-)

However, I really wanted to see if I can build something working in 2mm myself as if I can't get something relatively simple like a 2-4-0 running then I probably ought to revert back to the larger P4 scale. Stubborn old fool that I am :-)

 

Ian

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There isn't much room for the motor. That is the main problem with this little open cabbed thing. I was planning to split the footplate at the cab and leave the bunker attached to the chassis separately. The body would be removed by sliding forward over the motor, which was at boiler pitch.

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Rich,

 

It is my intention to mount the motor down the boiler and into the smokebox. I will make the boiler assembly a separate unit which will have a peg at the cab end fitting into a hole in the cab front, and bolted down to the footplate under the smokebox (that's my hope anyway). The motor I have purchased for the job is one of Nigel Lawton's micro motors, which at 6mm diameter and 10mm long fits in the tubing I will use for the boiler.

 

Just need time to make it all ;-)

 

Ian

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That's pretty much how I imagined doing things, except that my boiler was marginally oversize to allow an 8mm motor, which was pretty much the ID of the brass.

 

Time. Yes. I would like some more of that.

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